GT6 M
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Everything posted by GT6 M
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timbancroft61 wrote:More understeer, yep, you need that! says Tim, BUTT, alot depends on how yer cars set up, stickier tyres than factory, more air in fronts at least 32 neg camber insted of positive all above will negate the under steer. pplus yer driving style too will effect it. thing is, nearly every small bar ive took off / seen all have a twist in em. makes me tink they were there frae the start. as no one has every said any difference. M
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Mark, why dont you split the diff to fin oot. very simples to doo, wont be upsetting any settings. should only take 10 mins tops to split. is this a 3.27 you worried aboot. E Bay one!!! M
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Nearly 300£ with postage.
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some thing strange about that one, it no has the slant on the back, never seen one like that before, up to ove 170£ noo, suspect it will go for about 210,!! not for me with just the chamfer at the front, just dont look reet at all M
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You need one o these, :) :) :) http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=zFGva6ZS4fU
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Yip I was in stitches too, every time I saw a new bit of wood, next to all the destroyed bits. would have really cracked me up, if he,d hit his foot. :o :o :o M
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Have a look at this, woe needs a hub puller. you just gotta laff http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=295baZRYpq4 M
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OK the I,ll Capo, what you going to doo 1, try it with loong nosed pliers, and mark the dash, :) :) 2, make a tool, and get it off 3, go buy a one, at great cost. 4, cadje one Spill the beans. ;) ;) M
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what aboot these,!!! M
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Above was only if you canno get it off with some long nosed pliers. if off, then its a doddle. Keep in a Tin that says, Special Tools, :) :) M
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Implications on overdrive of running low g/box oil
GT6 M replied to John Bonnett's topic in Drivetrain
Did you put some copper washers onto the top bolts / studs on the od,!!! these go inside the OD, and can leak if not sealed. M -
If it were mine, Id have an outlet at each end, as the fuel will surge aboot, so an outlet at each end, will in theory doo away with the need for a swirl pot. Butt, ye need to feed each outlet into a T or a V peice,then into filter,then pump then into another after filter, comprendo,!! Should be ok with outlet size, but it takes nowt to enlarge em. Ohh if only the GT had that type of tank,, but it aint :-/ M
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Here what ye doo, simples,and wuks a treat. 1, get some masking tape,and tape all round the item to be loosend 2, take off the nobb bit, wee hole under neath, press some thing up,and pull off 3 , tape up ,or cover in grease, the inner bits / shank 4, get a deep socket, or a length o pipe, that will fit owa the thing with at least an 1/8th to spare 5, grease up the nut part too, Last 2 VVV important, honest it is. :) 6, mix some Bod,ee filla up 7, bung all around the outer nut 8, bung some into socket, which should also have a smear o grease on it, not needed for pipe. 9, push socket owa the nut 10, let bod,ee filla set a bit, and pull off 11, pare away excess bits 12, you now have a ready made Thingy A Majig, which will doo whats needed. made quite a few speacial tools this way. M
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Implications on overdrive of running low g/box oil
GT6 M replied to John Bonnett's topic in Drivetrain
good chance it stopped wukkn as you went down a hill,!!! and oil did not flow back into OD end, as its got to go over a wee hump to get thee. Should be OK, but one never knows. Id be moer worried about the box. an inch in the bottom, by the time the gears have flung what thea is aboot, then there be no oil in sump bit. M -
Depends on whether some bodys gone right thru,!!! doo a test wid a match or some thing, to bung into hole. M
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Tap it a bigger size, can be done in situ. Or, bung a over sized stud / bolt in. get a shanked bolt, the ones where the shank is bigger than threads, and die it, but leave the die nut open,so the bolt is bigger, may work out. M
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Erm, wot the heed of for,!!!!! spill the beans. Ohhh dont let Gerry near it, or it,ll end up lop sided ;) ;) M
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Spit, just seens this thread, As Clive says earlier, I did mine to get the camber correct. and also to doo away with the tie bar, thus no tracking change. If ye dont use longer lower links, then the camber change still exists. have you thought about the camber,!!! M
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Nick, im maybe a little too pikkee, but the bolts in my mind are just plain wrong. the shank does no go into the crank, just the thread part. on a few Ive took to bits, the holes in the flywheel have been elongated, and the bolt sides shiney. On my engine,I drilled out the crank 1/4 inch and fitted longer bolts,so the bolt shank,also acts as a spigot Been OK for last 20 odd years M
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Just the handle, or is it the lever!! I got some, but they got pits on em. been stored in a damp spot, for too lang. have you tried the Grave yard.!!! M
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Just the handle, or is it the lever!! I got some, but they got pits on em. been stored in a damp spot, for too lang. have you tried the Grave yard.!!! M
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can always try it yer self http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1311&_nkw=chrome+plating+kit&_sacat=See-All-Categories or spray them chrome paint. Butt Black paint looks even better. M
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can always try it yer self http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p3984.m570.l1311&_nkw=chrome+plating+kit&_sacat=See-All-Categories or spray them chrome paint. Butt Black paint looks even better. M
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very similar too these http://www.wolfrace.co.uk/eurosport_details.php?wheelID=242
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whats neede is plenty of lube ont ropes and some one to press doon on the out side. as some times the rubber lip does nae fit ower the screen lip,if no pushed doon M