glang
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Everything posted by glang
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although Im not averse to a bit of bodging I would try to avoid putting the torque of undoing/doing up the nut through the gear train. One thing is that the nut will probably become 'spongy' to torque as you take up the slack so making it difficult to get positive force on it..... If its already filled dont forget the oil in the gearbox when you take out the seal
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What iggy says is the right way to do it but as a quicker bodge it can be done by putting bolts through two of the flange hole, doing them up tight and then wedging a correct size spanner on one nut against the other. Then spanner can then be locked against the floor of the vehicle to allow the nut to be undone be warned though that the recommended torque does say 90 - 100 lb.ft.....
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You need to do a check to identify where the problem is: On your starter solenoid there should be two big terminals and one little one. This small one has the wire that comes from the ignition switch and should energise when you turn said switch to the starting position. With a multimeter (or if unavailable 12v bulb) check that there are 12v relative to earth at this terminal when your assistant tries to start the engine. If there are 12v then the problem is with the solenoid or its earthing and if not its the ignition switch or associated wiring.
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I drive the car a lot in Spain and as the rad needs replacing anyway (fins disintegrating) for a bit extra on the price I might as well go 'uprated'. Not to say a good clean of the system wont make a difference as well but Ive never heard of a vitesse suffering over cooling
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Thanks guys, Ive been looking around and seen various options with different fin design, 4 rows instead of 3 or closer spaced tubes (from the standard of around 30 to 40 across the width of the rad) but dont know which, if any, offer an improvement....... It's made worse because I believe some rebuilders just change the original design without saying anything while others advertise uprating without saying how so it's difficult to compare them!
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Has anyone got experience of fitting an uprated rad to a Vitesse? What was different about the new one and what difference if any did it make? Cheers
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Even cheap electronics should be reliable by now but of course cooling is critical so maybe installation and the use of the heat transfer paste is important.....
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good ol original dynamo and mechanical regulator on mine but with a monster battery that seems to even things out!
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I wonder if aftermarket ignition units are still failing early or maybe their reliabilty has improved as in other automotive electronics cos as I say mine has been fit n forget.....
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Hi JJ, I know you must have previously thought about electronic ignition but isnt it the answer? One set of points for 6 cylinders is asking a lot and I was always fiddling/inspecting/cleaning wondering if they were causing problems so I replaced em with a cheapy in-distributor unit and have never worried again. At the selling price you can keep a second unit spare if youre concerned about reliability.....
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does this page help: http://www.teglerizer.com/triumphstuff/spit_and_gt6_specs.htm
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Hi Chris, this is a photo from a recent thread that shows what you should see in the carb inlet with the choke fully on. The flat bar at the bottom rotates and lifts the piston, with its needle underneath, a little so making the mixture richer. At the same time a cam where the choke cable connects should rotate against the throttle mechanism opening it to increase the tickover. Have a look over both systems while operating the choke to make sure its all happening ok.....
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Hi, I'll be doing mine soon and will probably have the same issue. If thats the case I'll be pushing the seal in up to the internal face but making sure that the lip doesnt run in any groove possibly made by the previous seal....
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just to check: this procedure is for the early type diff which your herald should have and is identified by having a castellated nut/split pin arrangement....
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Youre right of course John but I love the originality and if I wanted to be safer would drive something as modern as possible.....
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Thanks John, but if the impact is so severe that the belt fails the steering column will have well n truly finished me off by then! Sometimes I do think about how bad an accident would be in the vitesse but then I also ride a motorbike.....
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Thanks thats exactly on the lines I was thinking about although dont know where I can find some of that stuff..... Did you have to fix it to the floor at the seatbelt anchorage points?
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For pretty much the same price I got an Exide EA755 (75Ah 630CCA) for my Vitesse which I believe has the same battery space available as your Herald. It squeezes in nicely being the same size as the one youre looking at except for the width at 270mm rather than 230mm. I did have to modify the fixing rods as they were too short but have been really pleased with its durability, cranking power and charge hold.....
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I have the original seatbelts fitted and wonder if anyone has come up with an easy way to make the clasp part of the belts rigid ie so theyre like the modern stalk type? It would make it so much easier to find and fasten them without having to go as far as fitting inertia reels.....
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job done! but I wouldnt go greasing it again anytime soon In fact now Im having doubts about doing mine.....
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The other thing is does it really matter? Would you dismantle the rear hubs and everything anyway? What about just pushing the seal in as far as possible, then slide the flinger along without making contact and getting on with enjoying driving it.....
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well my manual does talk about putting the seal in with the 'lips trailing' and if you look at the Rimmers picture here: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID005909 it does look directional......
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Reminds me that Id better do mine sometime soon! The seal certainly shouldnt touch the flinger which itself should be a mm or so clear of the housing....
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It looks like the seal should stick out a couple of mm but anyway as you tap it in it'll come to a stop against the internal shoulder.... Out of interest, was there much resistance as you originally pumped the grease in?
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Yes that gap does look a bit large. I wonder if the grease you have pumped in has pushed out the oil seal so that its in contact with the flinger when you tap that back into place. Looking at the drawing the seal should just protrude from the housing when it has been fully knocked home against an internal shoulder. If you can get the flinger back a bit you should be able to check the seal and with a flat edge tap it back in if necessary. The only risk is that with the movement the flinger might loosen on the shaft.....