Keith
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Everything posted by Keith
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I've owned my 12/50 for 30 years now, and in all that time I've always had problems with clutch judder, especially when hot. I've changed pretty much everything now, new old stock clutch, engine back plate and it still does it. Is there a way of making the coil spring clutches work properly, or should I just bite the bullet and swap it for the diaphragm version? K
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I put Newton carpets in my convertible 20 years ago, they've done 46,000 miles since then and still look OK. Arguably they are a lot harder wearing than the original woollen ones. K
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5820 wrote:There is this set for sale on ebay looks in good condition :) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1966-triumph-vitesse-1600-carpet-set-also-fits-herald-/301209383896?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item46217a73d8#ht_227wt_1029 Vitesse and Herald carpet sets are not the same - the gear lever hole is further back on a Vitesse. K
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5791 wrote:. Note to mods, I ticked box to be emailed when thread had replies, so far 6 replies and no emails. Cheers I've never tried that function, does it work for anyone else? K
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Nope, not in the book for TR2,3 or 4. K
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SPECS Cameras on the A9
Keith replied to Deleted User's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
from - http://www.thecourier.co.uk/news/local/perth-kinross/opponents-claim-a9-average-speed-cameras-are-being-railroaded-through-1.296524 Quote:A spokesman said: “The A9 Safety Group firmly believes that average speed cameras will save lives on the A9. We have committed to having the system installed by October and we have to start work now to meet that deadline. I wonder why they chose that deadline?? -
I'm with Ferny, EP90 every time! Keith
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Ta for the info, I've got 7 thou and manual says 4-6 (desirable) I think I should just bolt it together and stop worrying! K
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I should know this but it's been a while since I put an engine together, If I buy a set of 5 thou oversized washers, does that mean that each washer is +5, or is each washer +2.5 to make 5 thou total? K
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Agree cleaning and adjusting should cure most ills. Be careful not to lose the ball bearing from under the accelerator jet ( I think everyone does that the first time they take one apart!) You can get overhaul kits for them which gives you new spindle, pump diaphragm, jets etc. K
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I must admit I'm thinking of going down the fibreglass route when I next need to refurb the wings on my TR. They do seem good value for money, they don't rust, are cheap to replace in the event of damage, and would probably fit better than the steel ones which Revington fitted in the '80s. Why spend hundreds on genuine Stanpart ones which are only going to rust again, or alloy ones which are just as non-standard as fibreglass? K
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Half shaft universal joint is always favourite for that sort of noise, and it will only get worse if left. Worth jacking it up and having a good look for signs of wear and play. If your lucky it may just be end float on the joint needs taking up with thicker circlips. Otherwise you will need to remove the halfshaft and put a new joint in. Not too difficult to do but a bit of dismantling involved to get to it. UJs are cheap enough but try and get a good one (Hardy Spicer) At worst the yoke may be worn and you will need to change the shaft, then it starts to get more expensive. Good luck, K
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Are you planning on repairing or replacing the valances at the same time? The strips behind the bumpers are terrible rot traps so chances are they will need it. I'd get them blasted then repair any holes and apply plenty of rust protection behind the bumpers. Fit new metal strips but rivet rather than weld to reduce the chances of rust taking hold. Then fit the bumpers with lots of waxoil behind them. The new ones aren't a great fit and require a lot of trimming and fiddling to get right, the end result will look good though. K
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They are angled upwards, hence the problem. K
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Please see parallel thread in the Herald/Vitesse section- Sorry , link no longer available I'm impressed too with the Mann filter. Currently using a W717/2 with the 3/4" thread adaptor. This was slightly cheaper than the W713/9 and the same size It has slightly higher relief valve pressure of 1.5bar whereas the 713/9 is 0.8. I think the original spec is around 1 bar, but not sure of that. Cheers, K
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Just tried it after two days, oil light went out as soon as it fired, no rattle, I'm impressed! Cheers, K
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I fitted it yesterday, the acid test will come when I try to start it after it's been sitting in the garage for a few days. The old filter, which was Masterparts one, was empty when I took it off so didn't have any effective anti drain back. I was sold it cheap, now I know why! 8) K
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Nick_Moore wrote:In the meantime, you can reduce or avoid the rattle by turning the motor over without the choke, to fill the oil filter. You'll know when it's ready to go when the oil light goes out, and then give it some choke. Of course the neighbours will think your car is hard to start... But my car is difficult to start! ;) And even then it takes a lot of cranking to get the green light out. I'll let you know how I get on with the Mann filter, maybe we can get Tina & Andrew to stock the adaptors in Club Shop if it proves a popular mod. The other thread is here BTW- http://club.triumph.org.uk/cgi-bin/forum10/Blah.pl?m-1373532310/s-45/ K
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Thanks, I hadn't spotted that thread, might be a good solution if I can find an adaptor. K
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What's the best filter to buy to reduce the dreaded startup rattle? Ta, Keith
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After 115,000 miles and 22 years I've got the head off the TR and it all looks in remarkably good nick, even the valve seats look perfect and barely need a re-grind. I had it converted to unleaded shortly after I bought the car by a certain TR performance specialist and he seems to have done a remarkably good job (unlike most of the other 'performance' bits he sold me which have long since given up and gone for scrap, but that's another story!) Anyway, when he did the unleaded conversion he fitted slightly larger valves, and I've always thought this was slightly counter productive as the larger inlet valve is shrouded by the walls of the combustion chamber. The Kastner book describes a mod to improve this and I'm contemplating doing this. The mod involves opening open up the valve pocket and chamfering the top of the cylinder liner to allow better flow round the valve. This requires a head gasket which allows for this, but the 'standard' copper gasket I bought seems to have this. So on the plus side, it could free up the flow and improve power and efficiency, on the minus side, once you grind metal off you can't put it back! Any thoughts or experience out there? Keith
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Sorry to hear that Roger, I hope he makes a full recovery. Keith
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[Sorry, album link no longer available] Team 6 (unless I decide to use a more sensible car!) 8)
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Slimboyfat wrote: edit, why has 1998 turned into a smiley face? It's because of the way E-Blah encodes smilies, check the disable smilies box at the bottom to stop it. K
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Canleys and Rimmers both sell new rubber bumper sets, I suspect they are all from the same manufacturer these days. They are a bit fiddly to fit but worth it. Make sure that you put plenty of rust protection behind them otherwise the rot will set in! K