warphi1970

just sticking an ARB on without considering all spring rates and dampers will effect the handling of the car, if you cant break traction on the rear and you tend to get understeer when pushing into corners you may wish to stiffen up the rear or soften the front. to stiffen the rear you can look at spring or ARB but don't forget go too far and you may defeat the standard shockers fitted and introduce other issues. Its a science that's for sure but if you have one just try it and see how it goes. you could always go see a suspension tuner someone like Dave Gallop of Track developments who will tell you what you need to do to change your cars setup after a corner weight check if you wish to take it really serious. He setup my saloon car and since then its been great.

i have a freind who runs 185/45/16 on his opel Kaddett D which is low and he has to select the brand and tread pattern to get clearance and you would be shocked at the difference sure he has to get A049 (now discontinued) or the tyre rubs

2748 wrote:Machining the wheel mounting face? No, not really an option. The offset is set by the casting of the actual wheel rim. i have done this myself to give a 3mm clearance without any issues but does depend on how much meat is in the wheel. You are correct the casting process has a number of different positions for the spoke core to give different offsetts but most patterns have two positions really wide have 3, its to minimise the ammount of machining and hence waste material but from one blank many offsets can be created.

Alex wrote: I think you'll find the question is will the rear jag seats fit.   doh teach me to half read something, so if they fit into a convertable then thats my dilema solved lol thanks

i am looking at fitting Mk1 astra recaro seats in mine but i have been informed mk1 MX5 seats fit

1992 wrote:Thanks for that, the twins were set up perfectly, and now they are spitting etc, now stripped. Hoping that all will be well once back on, but not holding breath. Single is much more appealing, no balancing, one mixture ..... Now to find the bits. my experiance is that if set correctly and in good order then your carbs may stray a little but not massively, i would check to see you havnt got any missing washers etc that are supposed to prevent things rattling and self adjusting. Have used 4 carbs on a slightly more modern car for 7 years now and only need to tweek a little between really hot weather and freezing. but yes i also have a spitfire engine in my herald and it has a single stromberg on it at present but i have bought a twin SU setup :)

Alex wrote:Ok I've solved the problem..... I'm an idiot :-( I had another look today and realised there's actually nothing wrong.... Not sure why I couldn't do it the other day.... Thanks for the assistance though. Alex trust me it will not be the last time this happens to you :) sometimes you just got to walk away get a cuppa tea then come back in a different mood :)

well done :) lol

HI everyone, being inspired by your tales of what seems to be a fantastic event i just have a chassis up restoration on a 13/60 Cabrio to complete, just about got it stripped down need to start putting metal where there are holes etc good news is its got a sweet engine an FH from a spitfire with twin 1" 1/4 so should motor along nicely if i can get it back in one peice lol. Thanks to the guys and gals at the Bristol meet (including TR register, 2000/2500 club etc) who identified plastic bags of assorted new bolts and nuts that came with the project car i bought. 2016 should give me enough time i am sure

the prefix suggests its from an automatic 2000! 2000 mk2            ME....#DL%      BCS*    ME      MB      ME  (MEC Auto) 2000 mk2 Est.       ME....#SC%      BCE*    ME      MB      MEA (MED Auto) look under cars/ technical / prefix suffix table

have a good look and make sure you havnt missed one anywhere? but it may be that rust has built up around the studs and making it a nice tight seal as well as the well baked manifold face which incidently may also have some exhaust paste on it etc just gently tap it and see what happens

check out Herald16V thread on his car he has a snazzy twin box system and he has some good pictures might help

nang wrote:You could drill a hole in the backing plate and fit them that way. Tony. like your way of thinking and no possible damage to bearings :)

5820 wrote:Good luck with the weld-a-thon, the only advice l can give it check measure and check again, l got some complete front floor pressing including the flanges for the rear tub and gearbox cover floors from Canley classic and they were very good but took a long time to get right, l too had to fit new chassis mounts also, ended up building up the car and using the rear tub and doors to make sue it would be somewhere close when it all goes back together. lol feeling daunted my ieda will be to tack it all together assemble adjust then take appart to weld up before final assembly if not i have a hydraulic body jack lol  ;D

the friction pad mating surface is alot smaller in diameter however the overall diameter will be roughly the same to get the starter gear close to the starter motor i guess. whats the difference in thickness?

so ordered lots of panels from Chic Doig including both a pillar repairs with mounts, both side treads both floor pans gutter strips and b pillar mounting so i should have enough to start and hopefully getting a good look at a local vitesse so i will have a good idea at what i need to recreate lol currently feeling excited about the next few months getting stuck in. Thanks all for your advice and help so far will post some pictures of my progress please feel free to comment, i am thick skinned and take constructive critisism well :)

8675 wrote: Hi Phil, If you can't find anyone closer, I'm up towards Gloucester and would be happy to take a spin southwards for you to see what the pillars are supposed to look like. Cheers, Dave hi Dave will have to meet up some time soon then :) very kind offer i live in chipping sodbury but car is at my unit in winterbourne 10 mins from junction 14 of the M5 my telephone number is 07970 089443

thats ideal :) many thanks mine currently looks nothing like that the supports have been welded on 90deg from this lol plenty bodging gone on in the past gonna be fun trying to get this to line up afterwards lol being cheeky whats the inside of the apillar look like ie in the footwell looking at the a pillar at the top of this section? i seem to have a double skined hump lol

are you cranking the engine the same amount of turns for each test i have always used 3, it is really un-usual to get a reduction when adding oil. i may be telling my granny to suck eggs but here goes. Technically, You should do this when the engine is hot, But you can do it when the engine is cold. A hot engine would probably read a few pounds more, but a cold reading will tell you what you need to know. Run the test on each cylinder one by one. All the cylinders on an engine should be within ten pounds of each other. In other words, a four cylinder engine reading 150 PSI, 149 PSI, 147 PSI, and 152 PSI would be considered good. If it had 135 PSI, 149 PSI 150 PSI, 150 PSI, it would not be considered good. Something is starting to go wrong with that first cylinder. OK, you have a cylinder that reads low. Is it valves, head gasket or rings, leaking that compression ? The following are the steps to take to get correct readings 1. Make sure the battery is fully charged. A battery with a low charge will give low compression readings because of reduced cranking speeds. Youshould maintain 380-420 rpm for a good cranking rpms. 2. Warm the engine slightly for 10-15 seconds to produce metal expansion and to reduce oil drag. A cold engine will give slightly lower readings. But if you take cold readings everytime, it will give you the same baseline. 3. After the engine is warm shut it off and remove all the spark plug wires. 4. Remove one spark plug. 5. Block the throttle open. 6. In turn, carefully insert/thread the compression gauge in each cylinder and with the starter, turn the engine over for five seconds roughly or until the compression gauge has reached its desired target PSI reading. 7. Reinstall spark plug and Repeat these steps for each cylinder. 8. Make a note of the readings from each cylinder. What was the pattern? Does the gauge pump up fast? Is the max reading obtained after five seconds? (Very important) 9. Check the spark plugs from the cylinders with abnormally low or high readings. look for carbon buildup or oil deposits. 10. Replace the spark plugs after each individual reading and torque them to the recommended specs. Once you've got the readings, it's time to evaluate them to determine just what the future of your engine is going to be. If the gauge pumps up slowly, such as 30, 50, 70, 90, etc. to an almost normal reading, you probably have ring problems. A general rule is that a maximum reading should occur after two-three seconds. If oil is added to a low reading and the pressure improves, this will confirm worn rings. A persistent low reading generally indicates head gasket sealing, worns rings, scored cylinders or valve problems. Oil lost through worn valve guides will not be determined through compression testing. Low readings can also be caused by a warped head and occasionally, two cylinders will have very low compression which can be the result of a blown head gasket. It is important to remember that the addition of oil to the combustion chamber will not improve the compression readings if your engine has burned, warped or stuck valves. High compression readings can be the result of carbon buildup or head surfacing. Generally, if the variation between the cylinders is 5 to 10 lbs., this is acceptable, but always check the specs in the manual. It would seem that equal pressure is necessary to have smooth running engine, but it's been found that with only 70% of normal pressure is enough for running smoothly. Also, manufacturers specs usually list a bottom line acceptable pressure and a good engine will usually read 20 to 30 psi over the acceptable readings.[/size]

Richard_B wrote:Screwdriver through the middle and lever out. Depends if they have been installed with Loctite, as to how easy they come out. agreed other option is to drill a hole put a hooked tool attachement for a small slide hammer and whack away but i tend to drill and lever out, tried knocking a hole in one with a chisel before and it disapeared into the block was fun trying to get it out after that

TS1084CZ 2.5V 5A Low Dropout Positive Voltage Regulator  put this in and try it :) looks good works on 12v and gives out approx 1.5v but i am not an expert go in with this in mind and ask there bods max volts you should expect is 15v and you want 1.5v out at 0.5 amps they will find you the component you need

as my a pillars are fairly poor and had repairs before it would be really usefull to actually see what they are supposed to look like to try and re create it anyone know of any reasonable pictures or better still got a car near bristol area that i could look at?

Alex wrote: Any pictures by any chance ? my thoughts exactly lol thanks for all the advice so far, think i will order the items from chic doig for under the a pillars then td fitchett for some floor panns and see where i go from there.

JensH wrote:New floor panes does not go all way under a-post, you will need (or make) something like these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERALD-VITESSE-F-BULKHEAD-BODY-MOUNTING-A-POST-ASSEM-/371166198802?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item566b3abc12 http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HERALD-VITESSE-FRONT-FLOORPAN-NEW-DEEP-PRESSING-RIGHT-HAND-SIDE-806269-PRESSED-/351017078140?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item51ba3f8d7c (Chic Doig) Thanks thought that might be the case but didnt want to buy these then find that i didnt need it all lol

HI i am sure lots of people have bought repair panels for their restorations, so far i have found 3 suppliers TD Fitchett, Rimmer and and ebay shop Craic Doig. questions do we get any discounts from any suppliers as members of the club? are there any i am missing? I have sorted the Chassis out the engine is getting a clean new gaskets and a paint as i type (not quite litterally as i would get paint all over the keyboard) my next stage is the bulkhead, need to do both floor pans and the bottom of the a pillar, small bit of work on the vertical bulkhead and round windscreen, and replace the whole panel where the pedals sit, fun times next question the shaped floor pans ie not the repairs do these go all the way under the a pillar? or not quite as far and therefore i will need to add metal anyone got any pictures of there work so i can try and visualise. i realise i may just have to buy panels and then see what else is needed, so has anyone got comments as to the quality of various panels? hopeing to start putting things back together in the spring with a following wind. Thanks Phil