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Ridgetone Triumph

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Everything posted by Ridgetone Triumph

  1. There's nothing worse than a non leaking Triumph!!!!!!   Pity Triumph didn't utilise there drippy mechanicals and design a hose system to drip all inside the inner wings 😀
  2. Another wise big saloon owner 😀
  3. I fitted a Rimmers gearbox mount to 'Poo' about 5 years ago and before fitting it I wrapped the whole mount in clingfilm, not once, around but 4 times, probably more, it is still holding up the gearbox 😉 But a word of warning.........It was a complete act to get it back in place and pierce the holes to fit the bolts 😀 Oh yes, 'Poo' leaks oil from underneath better than any other English car     
  4. All the cams I have had modified in the past has had an identifying number etched into the end journal, usually the type related to the grind 😉
  5. Here you go, originals And sit here
  6. Those look aftermarket   The original ones were placed further up near the end of the screen 😉  Or they are Australian ones
  7. I Bean's picture I once connected the brown wire to the top terminal after removing and then refitting the starter motor.......How was I to know (dizzy)
  8. The electrical side of your question is not for me to answer, unless you want your car to go on fire 😀 As for selecting overdrive, this a matter of just flicking the switch, no need to depress the clutch, lift off or brake. Overdrive kind of is automatic, you hit the switch and the rest is elementary my dear Watson  
  9. Hope so too Bill, otherwise we will run out of ideas 😀
  10. Thanks Julian, a valuable 2c worth 🙂 Cheers Pete
  11. Bill, I am sure the rattle is the thrust bearing, this sound you hear when the clutch pedal is released is the thrust bearing. It will be worn, it is also very hard to test it in your hand as you would have to run it at the same tolerance as if it was in the car, means it feels ok when in your hand and spinning it. The only way to really check a pressure plate is to have that pressure tested. If the fingers are badly worn then replace that, also I am sure there is clearance between the pressure plate fingers and thrust normally.  Did you say you had a new clutch kit? I can check it over for you Wednesday late afternoon Bill? Cheers Pete
  12. The filter is next to the bulkhead, you should be able to make it out in the picture Steve enjoy your cuppa 😉
  13. Hi Steve, That is where the hand brake cable bracket attached and also is a mount for twin pipes? This is where I have fed the wire through for my pump The pump is mounted here
  14. Hi Bill, I will call in this week and check up on you 😉 Pete
  15. When in my rally days some of the cars (Mazda's, Imps, Anglia's etc) had there arches glued on with poxy and in some cases they just used filler and stuck the flare on when it was wet, so dried and the flare was stuck. Their reason for this was when or if they side swiped a pole or fence, even a bank the damage was minimal with sometimes just the flare coming off a apposed to tearing the bolts or screws out of the wing or 1/4 panel. I really think the way the works team fitted these to the TR7/8's where the best, it just looks right. Someone will tell you what you need to know in the end. 🙂  
  16. I have done some Triumphs and Escorts in the old days and what I used to do (whether is was right or not 😀) was to cut the outer wheel arch off to the desired amount and leave 90% of the inner arch. This inner arch I would heat up and fold backwards using heavy hammer and dolly and reform it to be re-welded to what was left of the wings or 1/4 panel. This would stop any mud and debris getting trapped. When all was welded I would fit the fibreglass outer arches or plastic ones depending on what was had at the time. Sometimes the new outers were pop riveted or bolted then finished with a coat of filler. On the VW Golfs we did, they had a rubber insert that fitted between the wing and flare arch, but these were bolt on flares and not needing any metal cutting. I guess I really haven't answered your question, as not done any TR7's    
  17. Thanks Alec, will try that next week when I have got my strength back 😀
  18. I have a TR7 axle that is minus the half shafts. I have managed to remove the flange nut off the pinion, but the pinion nut it self is proving to be a challenge, I have locked the crown wheel from turning with a piece of heavy flat steel which I bolted to the crown wheel. All that happened was the flat steel bent and folded up like a sheet of butter. Is this a job for the experts to remove the pinion from the housing? Or am I missing some thing   I also have the another diff head which has no crown wheel inside and I would like to remove that Pinion too, any advice will be great. Both the axles are sitting on the garage floor. Cheers Pete  
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