Deleted User
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Everything posted by Deleted User
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Thanks Michael
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Silence......... is it me or is this forum very quite at the moment? Can no one on the 10CR committee drop me a PM with possible dates? or have they not been chosen yet? I am asking no further information or questions just dates. Rob
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Just spent the morning reading this thread, fab fabrication work mate, very nice attention to detail! Keep it up Rob
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Guys, on a serious note do we have the dates for the 2017 10CR please, I have spoken to my supervisors at work and next year is going to be an issue with leave allocation due to forthcoming changes. I discussed this event and the fact its once every 2 years and I have been told to get the dates to them asap to get the leave booked now, this should guarantee the leave period for me allowing me to take part. If I don't get it in soon I may never get the allocated time off when I need it. Do we have dates yet? Rob
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Richard , doing this very job myself at the moment, 140mm measurement, however I have had several people do a measurement for me and the factory settings can be well out and different to their original spec. I can take pics and measurements if req? Just need to do some alterations on my diff upper spring bracket then reposition before final fix. Rob
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I have decent ones from Canleys and they are not affected by oil at all Rob
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I'll sort something if the Autoacosse does not come off then 😀
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Well if it does not run next year I will ask any interested to come up and we can do a few miles on superb roads, I know a few decent B&B's and fab roads. I am sure I could interest a few. Rob
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I think an early question is good. 12 months early? no mate. I was asking as this will be my next CT event, I plan to do the Auto Ecosse next year to shake down the car but I am forward thinking to this event. I am sure a bit of early interest is good for the club and event? Rob
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Serious note guys, 10CR 2017, Any details on where when and countries to be visited. Ferry an option but chunnel also an option for me on Tesco Clubcard vouchers ! With Scottish EU passport no problems with cross boarder . Rob
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I have moved the curve on further, adding 1 degree at 1500 and 2000 rpm, and 0.5 degree above that. At the weekend I will add another 0.5 degree where I added last time. So far better still. No pinking and spark plug colours perfect. Something I did not say previously, carbs with the necessary needles and springs for K&N Filters, gas analyser readings at idle within spec. Only experimenting with the curve, all other factors remain constant including carbs and mixture settings. I only ever change one thing at a time, either the curve or the vacuum advance. I have also attached a spreadsheet of distributer curves, including the 41449 for a 1500 spitfire and most other cars across the triumph range. I am not sure where to post them given the extent of the data. But they must be very helpful to all members. For most of these curves in the file the advance can be increased considerably. At the time the tolerance levels set had to be high to allow for manufacturing and servicing discrepancies. Even with a 123 Ignition if care is not taken to accurately identify TDC and then accurately measure advance dynamically at say 2000 rpm Vs the advance set then the ignition will be for ever out. A simple Gunson strobe against the timing marker at 850 RPM is not good enough, neither is the static mechanism with the green light. It needs to be done with a professional strobe dialling in advance and showing RPM to be accurate. Once lined up accurately you can play with the curve and vacuum attributes all day long. Set and forget. Will update again after the latest change. John
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123 Ignition advance curves - whats your setting?
Deleted User replied to Encom's topic in Electrical
Gents Following on from the previous post. A couple of things I would add. I went to a lot of trouble to ensure TDC was detected properly and marked up on the timing marks. I fitted the 123 Tune, set the green light and then started the car. I then re timed the ignition at 2000 RPM with a professional strobe so that I could be absolutely sure that timing was accurate and only needed to line up with the TDC mark ( The strobe could have advance dialled into it ). I then checked the rest of the curve, which was too. I did not attempt to set the 123 dynamicly at 800 RPM - too erratic to be confident. The cars pulls great from low down and goes like a rocket above 2500 rpm. I might yet add one degree to each of 2600, 3200 and 4100. Carbs fully balance with a professional flow meter .. etc. Lucas sports coil, plug gaps still at 25 Thou. I hope it helps others. One other note - I have just had some thrust buttons manufactured in UHMW to Paul Geithner's specification to fit to a new rear spring - I will report in the relevant section as to how I get on. Picture of the curve attached. John -
123 Ignition advance curves - whats your setting?
Deleted User replied to Encom's topic in Electrical
Gents John Harris - Newbie. 1980 1500 spitfire, standard, K&N's extractor manifold. 123 ignition tune, starting point Rick B and the attached file. See Spitfire 41449 work sheet. In the following post I have put my curve and what I did. John -
Gents John Harris - Newbie - 1980 Spitfire 1500, standard, K&N's and extractor manifold. I fitted a 123 Ignition Tune and thought I would share my program. I started with Rick's as a starting point too. A couple of things I would add. I went to a lot of trouble to ensure TDC was detected properly and marked up on the timing marks. I fitted the 123 Tune, set the green light and then started the car. I then re timed the ignition at 2000 RPM with a professional strobe so that I could be absolutely sure that timing was accurate and only needed to line up with the TDC mark ( The strobe could have advance dialled into it ). I then checked the rest of the curve, which was too. I did not attempt to set the 123 dynamicly at 800 RPM - too erratic to be confident. The cars pulls great from low down and goes like a rocket above 2500 rpm. I might yet add one degree to each of 2600, 3200 and 4100. Carbs fully balance with a professional flow meter .. etc. Lucas sports coil, plug gaps still at 25 Thou. I hope it helps others. One other note - I have just had some thrust buttons manufactured in UHMW to Paul Geithner's specification to fit to a new rear spring - I will report in the relevant section as to how I get on. Picture of the curve attached. John
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Not cheap I'm afraid! The Revolutions were £650 including nuts, centre caps Vat and delivery from Tyresave in Chester. The 245 Avon ZZS were £300 for the pair including Vat and delivery from Vintage Tyres. The 195/60 Nankang NS2R were £120 all in from a dealer on ebay. It's a pity Nankang don't do 245 as well! They are reportedly a top road legal semi slick.
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Another pic of the wheels in the house!
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Not sure if you have seen my thread about my 'Rally look-a-like' but I bought Revolutions a couple of months back. The rears are 10x13 with ET -38 offset (the widest offset they do) and fill the Rimmers Tarmac arches perfectly. The fronts are 7x13 with ET 00 offset and fill the standard front arches perfectly as well. I am fitting the small rally front arches too. I'm using the Rimmers Vitesse 4 pot kit and after shaving a couple of mm off the caliper casting the 13" rims fit ok. See my thread for more pics and info! The Revolutions are the 'race' versions which are lighter and ideal for tarmac and hillclimbs. Rear tyres are road legal semi-slick 245/50/13 Avon ZZS. Fronts Nankang NS2R 185/60/13.
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The OD cam is only held on by a clip in the rearmost ring, straightforward to change over
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Brings back memories - after some Glacier thrust washers fell out of a recon engine in a customers car in Luxembourg, I ensured that all future engines had Vandervall or equivalent for the rear one - glad to see someone has fully sorted the issue.
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Brings back memories - after some Glacier thrust washers fell out of a recon engine in a customers car in Luxembourg, I ensured that all future engines had Vandervall or equivalent for the rear one - glad to see someone has fully sorted the issue.
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Don't forget the three synchro 1st/2nd hubs MUST be assembled correctly - there is a cut away spline which must line up with the a small plunger. Stiffer hubs improve synchro action, but make sure there is plenty of clearance between synchro ring and dog teeth on each gear. The main bearing snap rings can go either way - the rear casing and bellhousing hold everything in place at the end of the day.
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Not an unusual problem, at first glance the seats look the same, but the backs are handed. Almost certain the bases are not handed. JK in NZ
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fia homoligation spec sheet for tr7-tr8
Deleted User replied to madfor tr7s's topic in Comps & Motorsport
Hi All, Wonder if anyone can help from that side of the pond. I trying to obtain FIA homologation papers for TR8. I understand that there is also an Historic supplement. Is this part of the original or an addition? I also have heard that cast inlet manifolds will be not allowed from March 2016 in historic. Does this reflect in any literature that someone may have on hand. Thanks in advance. Clay -
Your alive!! 😀 Steve, you have a message on Facebook mate. Rob
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lol Steve, my engine lift is available whenever you need it mate