994FRX Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 ??)Hi everyone Ive just joined this site. I have a 1964 Vitesse 6 which Ive been rebuilding for what seems like forever! Im having difficulty taking my NS rear hub off. I need to change the backplate and fit the larger size drum. It came with a smaller drum on the NS and a larger drum on the OS. I bought a universal hub puller which fits nicely but even with a torque wrench and a long steel tube it wont shift! and now the puller is bust. Im thinking it would be easier and cheaper to buy a whole new assembly? Ive tried a blowlamp on it too. but its beaten me. any suggestions welcome. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 dd you use the Triumph puller or a universal one? I found the ONLY way to remove them is with a proper triumph tool (or copy) available from ebay or the likes of canley classics. If you use a universal puller you will damage the hub and won't be able to shift it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 Its a universal one. the proper ones are expensive! but it sounds like its the only way.Thanks for the info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimW Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 where are you? Maybe someone could pop over and lend you puller. If you have broken the universal puller then the chances are you have already damaged the hub. Ask me how i know this???????????? :( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 9, 2010 Author Share Posted April 9, 2010 im near Blackpool (Poulton le Fylde). The puller just broke at the socket for a ratchet or in my case a big torque wrench and bar, but ive put the centre nut back on now... all seems well. apart from the hub still not budging! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted April 9, 2010 Share Posted April 9, 2010 If you use a universal 2 or 3 point puller you can distort the hub.It's a false economy to use anything other than the proper puller.And even with the proper puller there are some hubs that are still a barsteward to remove. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
price Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 hi. i made mine out of some angle iron and a good boult i will take a pick to day and post it. if you got a welder/ bit of 5mm thick angle and a good boult you be ok you can make 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 You might find someone in your area (Club meet) has one or access to one. Alternatively if there is a local Triumph specialist they may be willing just to pop the hub off the shaft; it's a 10 minute job with the right tool.I have currently have custody of the Surrey one! ;)Just to reiterate what Kevin and Tim have said, the wrong tool will distort the flange of the hub. :'( Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 i think its gonna be a bugga to take of no matter what I use, Its prob been on there for the past 46 years. And ive just realised I have bought two NS rear overriders!! ive fitted one at least. ( Big sigh.) I bought them years ago from the Stafford show. Yes ive had it years. I bought the car from the scrappy, engine was seized, chassis was goosed. but bill of sale still in glove box! I have done the engine and chassis now, body back on, lots to do still but getting there. s l o w l y. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 10, 2010 Author Share Posted April 10, 2010 the puller i have doesnt have arms that sit behind the flange, it sits over the hub bolts, and gets fastened down with the wheel nuts. then a large screw in the centre does the work. well its meant to anyway. its not one of those pullers that wobble all over the place. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResinRocket Posted April 10, 2010 Share Posted April 10, 2010 I have the joy of tackling the rear hubs soon too, and think I might just take the plunge and get the proper tool. I've used those bolt-on pullers on other cars and snapped them. I've got one of those 4-leg pullers too but won't use it incase I distort the hub.I saw instructions online for converting a 4-leg puller so that it fastens to the hub with the wheel nuts, I presume that way it wouldn't distort the hub as it's acting on all four studs like the proper tool does. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 im back outside having another bash... I expect it will be 2-0 to the car by the end of the day. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 maybe i should just grind off the hub and buy a new one, thats got to be a cheaper option ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 Y E S ! success. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 it came off with the puller. Greasing the threads and the tip made all the difference.Now I can get the new backplate on and assemble the new brakes, slave ect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 11, 2010 Author Share Posted April 11, 2010 now i need a couple of adjusters as they are seized. Ive put the wheel back on and spun it and there doesnt seem to be any wobbles in it so hopefully the flange is ok. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ResinRocket Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Nice work! What kind of puller did you use in the end? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 Hello 994,did you use a big hammer on the jack screw? I have found that is the only way to split my 2000 rear hubs. I have a heavy Sykes Pickvant puller and a solid adapter plate to bolt to the hub. Just tightening the screw will not split them in my experience.Alec Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 I used a puller which bolts onto the wheel studs, it took some work!I could see the main bolt twist as I screwed it in. I thought it wasnt gonna move, but on my next attempt (after i had composed myself and finished swearing) I covered the puller thread with grease and put lots on the tip, This time it went easier until I heard a loud crack! I thought id bust the puller but to my relief I saw the hub had finally let go. I had a good day yesterday, I fitted the rear brakes, rear side windows, back seat, front overriders and chome bumper trim. Still lots to do tho! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted April 12, 2010 Share Posted April 12, 2010 It's the "Churchill Hub Puller" that you may have used, or one modelled on it.Looks like this.It WILL remove the hub, when 'spider' pullers wimper and hide.After all, the nut is done up to 110ft lbs!John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 12, 2010 Author Share Posted April 12, 2010 same principal, different shape. I bought it at a diy stall at a car show for a tenner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB Posted April 13, 2010 Share Posted April 13, 2010 I made this puller from a front hub years ago, hasn't failed yet. Right or wrong I've always used plenty of heat when splitting hubs.Cheers Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
994FRX Posted April 13, 2010 Author Share Posted April 13, 2010 a wonderful piece of engineering! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DGGT6 Posted April 16, 2010 Share Posted April 16, 2010 Hello Mark,Would you mind taking a photo of the inside of your DIY hub puller please. Getting a "real" one posted down under costs more than the purchase price!Many thanks,Doug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MarkB Posted April 17, 2010 Share Posted April 17, 2010 Hi DougIt's just a nut welded in. The key to this working is to get the fattest strongest nut and bolt you can find and make sure the nut and bolt is dead centered. Grease the thread and end of the bolt. I have also used a ball bearing placed in the indent of the drive shaft to prevent damaging the thread but not normally needed.RegardsMark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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