Greta Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 It sometimes doesn't pay to go digging. With the Gear box cover off - seats out etc- ( still sorting the collapsed gear linkage ( where does that O ring go !! ) .. I decide to take the passenger glove compartment out ( first time look see !! ) Oh dear ... some of the wiring is just not pretty ... barbecue spaghetti comes to mind - ultimately I think it will require a new loom section for everything behind the dash... but in trying to work out what has gone wrong when and where I've begun a tidy up in the hope that I can make it safe enough to at least drive to a reputable auto electrician.Here is your picture round and your starter for ten.Fuse Box is extreme right - with what I think are two ! flasher units in middle and left. The dodgiest wiring - from where I think the short has been comes from the rectangular unit on the left.The black insulated taped stub was formally two green wires with a live feed when ignition on...going to the unit on the left - the new green wire ( 5amp) with blue heat shrink and red terminal leaves the unit - again only live when ignition on. This wire was burnt, corroded bare of insulation and I think the cause of the BBQI believ I have isolated these two and can't immediately see whats changed - my indicators still work.Any advice appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Is the left hand unit the voltage stabiliser? Light green wire to temp & fuel gauge...... Normally on the back of the speedo on the cars I have - I haven't paying full attention and not quite sure what car this is on?Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Quoted from Nick Jones Is the left hand unit the voltage stabiliser? Light green wire to temp & fuel gauge...... Normally on the back of the speedo on the cars I have - I haven't paying full attention and not quite sure what car this is on?Nick It looks like Voltage stabiliser shape, from memory it should have a couple of wires coming off for the gauges, with it disconnected the fuel and temp gauges shouldn't work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 12, 2018 Share Posted February 12, 2018 Are the two wires in the black tape attached to the unit on the right light green dark green should be for the gauges Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 The LH one isvoltage stabiliser, but not the style usually found on a spitfire. Looks like the one found on a 2000 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DanM Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Yes that is the voltage stabiliser and it looks right for a mk2 spit this wiring looks the same as my mk2 anyway. This gives a 10v feed to the fuel and temperature gauges.The 2 o-rings on the gear extension kit are seals for where the rod passes through extension housing. It can be a pig to get the remote rod out of the extension though the small bolt holding the actuator bit on is often very tight Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greta Posted February 13, 2018 Author Share Posted February 13, 2018 Thank you everyone.Here is a pic from a guy on ebay who says he can rebuild with "Solid State" internals - as the output seems to have failed - not sure if the problem with mine wasn't also a poor earth to the repainted bulk head. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/282480406434?ViewItem=&item=282480406434.. and a modern version here:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SOL.....p2485497.m4902.l9144 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 Greta,The overheated condition of the taped green wires indicates there has been a problem in the circuit, but not necessarily at the voltage stabiliser. One of those wires supplies the stabiliser and the other takes power to something else running on the circuit. A problem on the supplied side will overheat both wires continuing back to the fuse box. A bad connection can heat up and overheat the wires at the connection, but the damage won't go far along the wires. Good luck, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 It is possible to make your own solid state one for much less.do a forum search.need a 7810 regulator and a couple of small capacitors to protect it I think.Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted February 13, 2018 Share Posted February 13, 2018 http://www.britishv8.org/articles/mgb-voltage-stabilizer.htmI replaced mine with a solidstate one, followed the guide above but no LED.Essentially the original was a bi metallic strip heating up and cooling down really quickly to make and break a circuit to provide around 10v. The solid state version provides 10v ... a smooth and steady voltage for your guages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guppy916 Posted February 25, 2018 Share Posted February 25, 2018 Hi I used a solid state one off of eBay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VOLTAGE-STABILISER-REGULATOR-10V-CLASSIC-CARS-MG-TRIUMPH-LAND-ROVER-BHA4602/253395040254?hash=item3aff8577fe:g:SykAAOSwxTlZyOrL This is in my GT6 MK3 with no problems Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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