rotoflex 2.5 spit6

[custardcarpet]

Can anyone provide details of the handbrake cable guides on the rotoflex gt6 shell? I'm building a spitfire 6 with a MKII gt6 roto chassis and 2.5 saloon engine. I understand the guides are moved from the chassis to body, but can't find any details. Also need info about fitting HS6 sprint carbs (can I just change the saloon carb dashpots) and any cutting of the bulkhead to clear the starter motor etc. Any other hints and tips would be very much appreciated. Many thanks.

[Richard B]

I had to cut mine of a MkIII GT6 body  :B

They tuck up into the corners where the propshaft transmission tunnel flares out before the diff.

Sorry no photos to hand.

[Clive]

The guides on the chassis will not work as the cable will foul the rotoflexes. Unless you use a CV conversion!.
The usual idea is to get the guides from a scrap rotoflex car and bolt/weld them onto the spit shell. Be aware it is very possible to get that wrong too (I know 2 cars that have issues with this, both very well built but somehow it went pear shaped in this area)
You can use just the sprint dashpots with the matching pistons. DO NOT swap pistons about even between a pair of carbs, the piston and dsahpot are a matched pair from the factory. You will need to use the GT6 inlet manifold, and either buy some adapter plates or redrill the manifold/carbs whatever to fit the carbs. Bit of DIY linkage too. I prefer the redrill approach, much neater.
The starter motor cut is literally a bit out of the tunnel edge, should be obvious when it comes to it, or get a GT6 tunnel and mark it up from that. The tunnels are different BTW.
Clive

[Gt6s]

cliftyhanger wrote:

The starter motor cut is literally a bit out of the tunnel edge, should be obvious when it comes to it, or get a GT6 tunnel and mark it up from that. The tunnels are different BTW.

The RH cutout for the starter is a mirror image of the LH side so just cut the same way and you have it.

[npanne]

Gt6s wrote:

The RH cutout for the starter is a mirror image of the LH side so just cut the same way and you have it.

apparently an alternative would be to hang the new engine and gearbox in position on a hoist / engine crane, and just swing it at the bulkhead. This much weight will 'adapt' the profile of the bulkhead by as much as is required.

[Gt6s]

npanne wrote:

apparently an alternative would be to hang the new engine and gearbox in position on a hoist / engine crane, and just swing it at the bulkhead. This much weight will 'adapt' the profile of the bulkhead by as much as is required.

NICE !

If you want a buckled bulkhead.

[michael]

npanne wrote:

apparently an alternative would be to hang the new engine and gearbox in position on a hoist / engine crane, and just swing it at the bulkhead. This much weight will 'adapt' the profile of the bulkhead by as much as is required.

apparently some people have no idea this is not scrapyard chalenge he is asking how to do the job the correct way michael

[npanne]

Woah there fellas.

I've just read the original post, and at no point is the phrase the correct way used - the poster just asked for tips, and this method is known to have been used. It might not be pretty, but it's sure as hell quicker. We're not talking about a massive adjustment - it only fouls on the lip of the bulkhead by a couple of mils. To get this level of adjustment would require only a tiny knock, I'm not suggesting that you swing a six cylinder engine from shoulder height.

I'm not sure that there is a correct way when it comes to fitting a non-standard engine to a car - if you're being picky then you could say that the "correct" way would also involve welding in a patch on the passenger side where the original cut away exists - or even letting in GT6 panels. Ultimately this is a small adjustment to a thin skinned edge - I don't think you would be damaging the integrity of the structure by bending it a bit rather than cutting it away. Would your reaction be different if I suggested using a hammer and dolly to bend the lip?

[Gt6s]

npanne wrote:

you could say that the "correct" way would also involve welding in a patch on the passenger side where the original cut away exists - or even letting in GT6 panels.

A Gt6 has starter cutouts on both sides.

[rotoflex]

Is that for the Australian market GT6's?  They say that engines turn the opposite way in Australia, so wouldn't you have to mount the starter on the other side?

[Gt6s]

rotoflex wrote:

Is that for the Australian market GT6's?  They say that engines turn the opposite way in Australia, so wouldn't you have to mount the starter on the other side?

No thats Honda you are thinking of.
Its there just as a leftover from the spitfire bulkhead.
Good theory though.

[michael]

npanne wrote:

Woah there fellas.

I've just read the original post, and at no point is the phrase the correct way used - the poster just asked for tips, and this method is known to have been used. It might not be pretty, but it's sure as hell quicker. We're not talking about a massive adjustment - it only fouls on the lip of the bulkhead by a couple of mils. To get this level of adjustment would require only a tiny knock, I'm not suggesting that you swing a six cylinder engine from shoulder height.

I'm not sure that there is a correct way when it comes to fitting a non-standard engine to a car - if you're being picky then you could say that the "correct" way would also involve welding in a patch on the passenger side where the original cut away exists - or even letting in GT6 panels. Ultimately this is a small adjustment to a thin skinned edge - I don't think you would be damaging the integrity of the structure by bending it a bit rather than cutting it away. Would your reaction be different if I suggested using a hammer and dolly to bend the lip?

ouch must have hit something   michael

[custardcarpet]

Thanks everyone for your suggestions and advice.

Looks like the handbrake guide positions could be critical. Anyone got dimensions. drawings or pics? Also been told that the best flowing intake manifold for the HS6 carbs is from the saloon, although it has to be cut and welded or re-faced at an angle to clear the bonnet (I know it's at an angle in the saloon with the engine canted over). Is this a big job / worth doing or too much hassle for the effort and benefit?
As for the starter & bulkhead, I think we'll make the cutout just big enough to clear. Although the original tunnels were different, can I get away with the spitfire gearbox tunnel and carpet, or does it foul on the starter or gearbox?

Any other pitfalls and elephant traps I need to be aware of before putting the body back on? Yes, I have a GT6 bonnet before anyone states the obvious ;D

Once again, help from those in the know greatly appreciated.

[Richard B]

custardcarpet wrote:

Also been told that the best flowing intake manifold for the HS6 carbs is from the saloon, although it has to be cut and welded or re-faced at an angle to clear the bonnet (I know it's at an angle in the saloon with the engine canted over). Is this a big job / worth doing or too much hassle for the effort and benefit?

Well it is the best manifold for carbs.

custardcarpet wrote:

As for the starter & bulkhead, I think we'll make the cutout just big enough to clear. Although the original tunnels were different, can I get away with the spitfire gearbox tunnel and carpet, or does it foul on the starter or gearbox?

You need new/moved brackets welded into the body.

The Spitfire tunnel fouls the starter.

custardcarpet wrote:

Any other pitfalls and elephant traps I need to be aware of before putting the body back on? Yes, I have a GT6 bonnet before anyone states the obvious

Does the body have the holes for the rotoflex tie-rod?

Do you have the GT6 radiator brackets on the chassis?

[custardcarpet]

Yup. Got the rad brackets as it's a GT6 chassis. Fitting new radius arm mounts for the roto setup.

[Llessur]

michael wrote:

apparently some people have no idea this is not scrapyard chalenge he is asking how to do the job the correct way michael

I personally don't really see what the problem is with this method as it is exactly the method I used to "adapt" my bulkhead during a six-cylinder conversion - albeit accidentally.

I was fitting the 6 cylinder to my Spit single-handedly and had not noticed the starter motor buldge of the bell housing fouling the bulkhead when I lowered the block. The fouling was so minimal (a couple of millimeters) and the bulkhead so thin at this point that the sheer weight of the block being lowered into place adjusted the bulkhead for me. By no means did I swing the engine or push it etc - it did it all under its own weight.

In fact, I did not even notice the bulkhead had been fouled and subsequently bent (slightly) until I had got inside the car afterwards to tend to the gearbox mountings.

I can understand people's drive to do this properly if your car's concourse but for such a small thing in an area that is largely unseen I really don't think this method was a problem at all - certainly saves the hassle of cutting and welding. Absolutely no damage was done to the bellhousing and it did not even remove the paint from the bulkhead so I don't really see the problem.

As npanne says - if a hammer and dolly had been suggested I can't see anyone would have raised this much objection to it. This surely has the same results and saves a walk to the shed.

Obviously if the bulkhead's being fouled by more than a couple of millimeters then a different approach might be more appropriate but using a standard GT6 6 cylinder block and gearbox I can't see how this could be the case.

Just my thoughts...

[don cook1]

You can use the original manifold. Just open out the two inlets to 1 3/4 and fit an adaptor plate...or 'adapt to suit'. While you're at it modify the two ports (2&5) by removing metal that blocks the flow.

[Gt6s]

Gt6s wrote:

The RH cutout for the starter is a mirror image of the LH side so just cut the same way and you have it.

Cut out as Gt6 or bend, WHATEVER !

A secondary purpose of the cutout is that it allows some access to the clutch cylinder meaning it can be changed (bit awkward, as on spitfire but read very awkward) without removing the gearbox cover.
Anyway your choice.