Spitfire Mk 2 front disk brakes

[chunky42monkey]

I have replaced the front vertical links, stub axle, hubs and brake calipers and discs. but still they don,t run true and I have squeaky sound as they rub against the brake shoes. Does anybody have a remedy of how I can sort this please??

[thescrapman]

Have you got the stainless Antonio squeal shims fitted? And we're ther new pads as well?

[chunky42monkey]

Yes they have been fitted and new brake pads and discs, its the disc that does not run true rubbing the pads while turning causing an bird like squeak... most annoying 

[Velocita Rosso]

Discs can be put on a lathe and a slight skimming of the surfaces take place 

[RobPearce]

A common cause of brand new discs appearing to be out of true is failure to properly clean the back of the hub when fitting. Also, check the condition of the hub for run-out and the alignment of the bearings.

[chunky42monkey]

I think i should explain myself a little better, the squeaking come when your foot is off the brake and when you apply the brakes the noise stops. i am just wondering if there is anything that i can do to stop this?

many thanks John 

[chunky42monkey]

Quoted from RobPearce-

A common cause of brand new discs appearing to be out of true is failure to properly clean the back of the hub when fitting. Also, check the condition of the hub for run-out and the alignment of the bearings.

they were brand new hubs and discs. i can check the alignment of the bearings, is there a way of doing this?? thanks 

[RobPearce]

Well, we're getting into specialist tool territory here. You need a dial gauge with appropriate mounting. You would use that to measure the run-out of the disc at a few radii. Then you'd take the disc off and use the dial gauge to measure run-out of the hub, back and front.

Of course, this might all just show that there really isn't any to speak of. Is there any play in the bearings? Did you set them by the book? How are you spinning the disc? Is the noise when you're driving?

[PeteStupps]

Chunky,

Out of interest, where did you get the stub axles and did you manage to set the bearing end-float OK? 

I bought a pair of stubs from Rimmers last month. After much head-scratching, eventually found they were too long by about 2.5mm. With the castellated hub nut fully tightened there was still loads of lateral hub movement. Just worth checking. 

Full write-up here: http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/8852-new-spitfire-stub-axle-and-bearings-loose/

Pete

[chunky42monkey]

Quoted from PeteStupps-

Chunky,

Out of interest, where did you get the stub axles and did you manage to set the bearing end-float OK? 

I bought a pair of stubs from Rimmers last month. After much head-scratching, eventually found they were too long by about 2.5mm. With the castellated hub nut fully tightened there was still loads of lateral hub movement. Just worth checking. 

Full write-up here: http://sideways-technologies.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/8852-new-spitfire-stub-axle-and-bearings-loose/

Pete

I got the stub axles from James Paddock because I have had a run in with Rimmers before and I will not use them now!! customer service stinks! I bought a roof from them which does not fit at all, their answer "well we have sold 10 of them and nobody has come back" which I understand now is their standard answer to everything talking of others! 

thanks 

John 

 

[chunky42monkey]

Quoted from RobPearce-

Well, we're getting into specialist tool territory here. You need a dial gauge with appropriate mounting. You would use that to measure the run-out of the disc at a few radii. Then you'd take the disc off and use the dial gauge to measure run-out of the hub, back and front.

Of course, this might all just show that there really isn't any to speak of. Is there any play in the bearings? Did you set them by the book? How are you spinning the disc? Is the noise when you're driving?

OK that sounds quite complicated, the bearings where fitted by my mechanic friend they were new so no play, the noise happens when you are driving but only after you have used the brakes a few times.

thanks 

John 

[PeteStupps]

Quoted from chunky42monkey-

Pete

I got the stub axles from James Paddock because I have had a run in with Rimmers before and I will not use them now!! customer service stinks! I bought a roof from them which does not fit at all, their answer "well we have sold 10 of them and nobody has come back" which I understand now is their standard answer to everything talking of others! 

thanks 

John 

Interesting John, they didn't argue over the phone but I haven't had my money back yet! Very disappointing that they were like that for you.

On your car, if you jack the front end up and spin the wheels can you hear rubbing? Give the wheels a bit of a rock back and forth and see if there's any vertical or lateral movement. Apologies if teaching you to suck eggs but there should be a very small amount of play in the wheel bearings - they mustn't be overtightened or too slack. These do need checking a few miles after fitting. Look at Haynes or workshop manual for correct procedure. 

You may already have done so but you want to check that everything else is tight after all that new stuff on the front end has had a shake down. So maybe take the wheels off and check caliper bolts, steering arm etc are all good and tight. The nut that holds the end of the steering arm on, also holds the stub axle in the vertical link and should be seriously tight - can work loose when settling new stub axles in. 

Saying all that, to me the most likely thing sounds like one or more of your brake pistons isn't returning fully into the caliper. If so, it should sort itself out as the pads wear in a bit. The alternative would be taking the brake pads out and working the pistons back into the caliper - this is quite awkward, may cause the master cylinder to overflow, and might not fix your problem. If it doesn't then you'd have to take the calipers off and check the piston seals are seated correctly and there are no burrs or anything on the pistons.

If it was me, after checking everything was torqued up correctly, I'd find a quiet straight road and perform a few emergency stops, and see if that helped.

Pete

[Clive]

A good idea of disc run-out can be got using a screwdriver/bit of wire etc held in place against part of the VL so it just touches the disc, then spin the disc by had and see if gaps appear or it binds. That should be accurate enough to see is the discs are the issue.

Are the calipers brand new or recon? Do the pistons move freely and also "pull back" when your foot (or assistants foot) is removed from the brake pedal? Which pads have you fitted?

 

Lots of questions which may help pin the issue down!