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Building A Better Engine


aaron77

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good trick i used building engines, when removing oil filter after 500 miles, cut open using metal cutters,(not grinder),un-fold card and examine,should only see extremely small particles,from breaking in process,anything larger,could mean a problem.

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I think the point about crank dampers is that they need to be matched to the 'wind-up' characteristics and resonances of the crank they are damping.  These characteristics will determine the weight of the flexibly mounted part and maybe the shore harness of the rubber.  I guess that flywheel weight will also affect the tuning of this system.

My point really is that I suspect that bolting on a damper intended for another engine won't have the effect you are looking for and discovering that it doesn't will certainly be costly................

The Triumph 6 pots have harmonic dampers on anyway, though obviously not intended for the rpms discussed here!  Plenty of other standard vehicles have them fitted too, especially diesels though no reason why any of them should have the right effect for Triumph 2.5.

Nick

There are ways of calculating all this obviously - but I don't know 'em!

Nick

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I think the point about crank dampers is that they need to be matched to the 'wind-up' characteristics and resonances of the crank they are damping.  These characteristics will determine the weight of the flexibly mounted part and maybe the shore harness of the rubber.  I guess that flywheel weight will also affect the tuning of this system.

My point really is that I suspect that bolting on a damper intended for another engine won't have the effect you are looking for and discovering that it doesn't will certainly be costly................

The Triumph 6 pots have harmonic dampers on anyway, though obviously not intended for the rpms discussed here!  Plenty of other standard vehicles have them fitted too, especially diesels though no reason why any of them should have the right effect for Triumph 2.5.

Nick

There are ways of calculating all this obviously - but I don't know 'em!

Nick

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[quote by=cjm link=Blah.pl?b=2000,m=1150332781,s=26 date=1154782308]good trick i used building engines, when removing oil filter after 500 miles, cut open using metal cutters,(not grinder),un-fold card and examine,should only see extremely small particles,from breaking in process,anything larger,could mean a problem.[/quote]

I've read that the rings break in within the first 30 minutes of running - would imagine changing the oil and filter then is a good idea...

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The point I was trying to make with regard to the Fluidampr question was that Jon Wood of Racecraft apparently solved the torsional harmonic issue with a special damper. I suspect from reading the website on Fluidampr that these may be the secret ingredient.

I have mentioned it on kas kastners forum and he certainly has met Jon Wood when he was racing his Tr6 in the states and reckoned that he certainly had his 6 going very well...

I also realise that you just can't bolt anything on... however reading the blurb it states that production elastomer (rubber) dampers (ie what the 2.5 has) are only made for production type resonances ie under the rev limit. This makes perfect sense.

The silicon filled "viscous" dampers that Fluidampr make are designed to reduce all bad harmonics not just specific ones.

BTW a version of the Fluidampr was original equipment on GM  Hi PO V8's so you can bet that GM did their research before bolting on something ... They must work... I just need to find the best one!!! It's obviously related to the stroke... note how a 2000 damper is smaller than a  2.5.

Another BTW!!!  My engine has a alloy flywheel which weighs about as much as a heavy duty frisbee... obviously the standard harmonic damper is no longer matched to this

Any ideas ?

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possibly an equation of contributary factors should be drawn up,bhp,permissable revs,weight of turning assembly,torque? maybe a "x" factor,for a not thought of issue.i have contacted linked company(fluidampr) to see if theres any advice,all avenues explored should yield something!what do you think?

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I think measure the Triumph 2.5 one (which is a compromise) and then find the closest diameter match that has a chance of fitting...

I believe the Fluidampr technology is not that sensitive to individual engines ... they reccomend the same unit for 302,  351, and 400 cui Windsor small blocks which all have different strokes.  More critical it seems is the issue of external counter weight matching which obviously doesn't affect us

I will measuring the nose of a small block ford ASAP to see if  Fluidampr PN650231 6-5/8"  can be used

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another trick i've used,when putting oil into engine after re-build,instead of filling using oil cap at top,use syringe,stud to fit oil pressure hole with hole through it ,and the rubber gromet that comes with syringe,while someone is turning engine over slowly,using front pulley bolt,and sparkplugs removed,use syringe to fill through oil pressure switch hole.not good to do when using cam lube.(large syringe better)

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have measurements for small block ford,crank is 1.374-1.375,fluid damper part number 650221(according to roadcraft),seems suitable for road use(according to company)around 40mm thick,, and 6  5/8  diameter.so where to go from here?  can anyone measure to see if this is viable?

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[quote by=richtriumphnut link=Blah.pl?b=2000,m=1150332781,s=13 date=1154633884]

speak to dave at canley he'll advise you. you can take the engines to 2.7 but they do crack after a while[/quote]

Just before I go and bore out my block, any idea's on how long I can expect a 2.7 to last??? :-/

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