Pete Lewis Posted April 8, 2014 Share Posted April 8, 2014 I use trimite wet/dry 3Ms 737 cant fint th grit reference ,used to be called flour paper,, very fine , good for rousing stained surfaces without upseting the surface finishPete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Hi allhit my first newbie failure, and then a questionsfailure = I misread the torque settings on the connecting rod cap bolts, and thought they were the same as the main bearings, so I tried to over-torque them. turns out I had bought a whole new set, so I removed them all and put the new ones in to correct torque setting (had to buy a new torque wrench though LOL)problem1 = Haynes manual states I should have washers with the connecting rod end cap bolts, but there were none when I stripped her down, and I do not have any in what I ordered from Canley last year.. should I stop now and order them?problem2 = just doing the clearances on the Crank-end-float... it seems to be at around 0.28, where the threshold seems to be 0.06 to 0.14... I am assuming I need to buy an oversized thrust washer set... which means I have to take all the caps off again :-(what size do I buy? 0.14 over?sorry guys for the newbie questions, never had my hands inside the bottom end of an engine before...cheersdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 DanIdo not think there are any washers under the con-rod bolts..28 seems a lot, what is that in thou??CheersColin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 I missed a decimal point sort of... it is 0.028.... where the tolerance in the Haynes manual says 0.006 to 0.014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 What size thrusts have you taken out? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 17, 2014 Author Share Posted April 17, 2014 Hi Alex... they have no numbers on them... they look in pretty bad shape to be honest, pitted and what not but no size on them... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex Posted April 17, 2014 Share Posted April 17, 2014 Could be standard then I guess......we could do with someone clever about now..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 18, 2014 Author Share Posted April 18, 2014 looks like to need to just remove the back main bearing cap, With a screw driver to lever crank from fully rear to front measure total travel .Base on 7thou end float. If total movement is say 14 thou you need a 7thou shim to give you your 7thou endfloatthat's word from Mick on tssc. suspect my issue will b that my movement goes beyond my feeler gauges! and without anything printed/etched into the current washer, I am going to have botheranyway, wish me luck!!! (hmm I wonder do I hse to loosen all of the caps to allow the crank to be levered forward, or should it move anyway) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 Dan,No need to loosen the caps. The normal bearing clearance is sufficient to allow the crank to move. Good luck, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted April 20, 2014 Share Posted April 20, 2014 looks like thrust washer are std 0.091" - 0.093" select to give clearance of 0.006-0.013"oversize are 0.096 - 0.098" I dont have specific for 1500 but cant see that would change the basics Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 cheers guys... I did some measuring just with the feeler gauges... as a test, I put her back together (washers and all), I pushed crank all the way to front and used feelers to measure the size (the rear of the rear main bearing, outside the block), and it was 0.030.. I then pushed it all the way back, and saw an increase of 0.008... not scientific, but it does give me a number...I have just received my magnetic dial-gauge, so I will work out how to use that, and see if I can get a more accurate measurement. I find it hard to get my head around the fact that the inset in the block under the rear-main-bearing cap, is not quite as wide as the "standard" thrust bearing, so removing them in my opinion, will not give me the movement I care about... what I would really need to know, is how much past the inset, does the washer go, and then use that as a measurement plus the movementfinding it quite hard to explain, even to myself. thinking the best thing to do is buy a few thrust washer sizes, and try them and then check movement... should only need a 0.005, 0.010 and a 0.015 to be safe. can I use 2 different sizes either side? I am sure it does not matter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevegt6 Posted April 24, 2014 Share Posted April 24, 2014 reading this post makes me want to start again..........or.........buy another one 8)I'll finish this one first and get it running proper on the road......then buy another :)Keep going Dan..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 24, 2014 Author Share Posted April 24, 2014 LOL I just wish I was not such a newbie sometimes... never had a classic before and certainly never had my hands inside an engine!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dan Miller Posted April 25, 2014 Author Share Posted April 25, 2014 OK, think I might just take a punt and get this lot from Canley:(I have noticed that you can no longer buy the woodruff key for the crank, wonder why?. the 2 shims on mine look a little distorted from maybe the engineers or my man-handling, not sure if I have to replace them so I have bought 2 anyway but I have never removed the woodruff and reluctant to now due to not being able to buy a replacement from Canley)Also going to pout spring washers into the main bearing cap bolts as recommended. looks like I do not need them for the con-rod end-caps6 x WL210 SPRING WASHER - 7/16 £0.20 EACH 1 x 145275 SHIM - .004" - LARGE CRANK £0.75 EACH 1 x 145276 SHIM - .006" - LARGE CRANK £0.95 EACH 2 x 144195/10 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .010 £5.34 EACH 1 x 144195/15 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .015 £5.34 EACH 1 x 144195/30 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .030 £5.34 EACH 2 x 144195/5 THRUST WASHER - LARGE CRANK .005 £5.34 EACH I can resell the unused ones on ebay if need be, o keep them for next time I mince the engine.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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