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Brake Pipes - Leaking Joints


cbjroms

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I have replaced all of the copper brake pipes on my 13/60 using a Snap On flaring tool to make the 45 degree double flares. I did all the connections up with a spanner and was careful not to over-tighten.

Having filled the reservoir and pumped the pedal a few times I notice that the joints to the rubber hoses at front/rear and into the master cylinder are all nice and dry. But most of the joints into the multiple connectors (4 way at front and 3 at rear) were leaking fluid. So I have tightened these a couple of times but don't want to strip the threads.

My question is how tight should the male unions be tightened into the multiple connectors? Is there something wrong with the flares if they leak at hand-tight + 180 degrees or should I pull on the spanner as hard as I can?

Thanks

Chris

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Hello Cbjroms,

they need to be firm but do not require a huge amount of tightening. Are you sure the fittings match the way your flare has been made as there are two different types, either a hollow flare or a sort of bubble, i.e. the opposite to the flare, like this -{}.

Alec

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Suggest that you anneal the pipe ends by heating them to a dull red and then let them cool. This will soften the ends and will allow the flares to hopefully conform to the unions assuming that you have the correct flares,
Tony,

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Thanks again everyone,

So I have stupidly made double flares where I should have made bubbles. Never thought to check before I started!

Looking around the internet there are many claims/videos suggesting that bubble flares can be made with a double flare tool. Given that we are talking about safety critical items here I don't want to do anything (else!) stupid. So is a bubble flaring tool very different to a double flaring tool?

Chris  

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3459 wrote:
Looking around the internet there are many claims/videos suggesting that bubble flares can be made with a double flare tool. Given that we are talking about safety critical items here I don't want to do anything (else!) stupid. So is a bubble flaring tool very different to a double flaring tool?


There are two stages. Using the first stage of the tool produces a bubble flare.
Following this with the second stage turns it into a double flare with an internal coned profile. There's nothing wrong or unsafe in this, it's how the tools are designed to work,

Cheers,
Bill.

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I just feel into this trap when fitting a brake booster. I to just had some 45 degree double flares made and...fail. I pulled it apart and sure enough looks like the taper in the booster ( and master cylinders) are for a single flare bubble, I'm thinking it should be ISO bubble. I'll get it sorted tomorrow.

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