Camo Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 ok I have Sye up and running now albeit on 3 cylinders, I have a problem I can't seem to sort, I have new points, plugs leads, dist cap rotor arm and condensor, the car will run with (back of engine to the front) the 1st, 3rd and 4th leads on the plugs, but if I put the 2nd lead on the car misfires badly, and then stales! I am a real novice at this so any ideas would be great, I do have a new coil on the way, what could be wrong? what am I doing wrong? Not sure if the ht leads are correct as they were not the same as they were on ym 1963 1200, but it is still the 2nd cylinder that cause problems not the leads.ps the car has not run for 20 years until this week so I am happy to have 3 cylinders at the moment. thanksStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Hi Stuart,Have you got the firing order right? With number 1 cylinder at the front, the correct firing order is 1,3,4,2. It's not uncommon for the distributor drive gear to be 180 degrees out of phase, but that would be obvious, look for a couple of leads swapped over as a more likely fault. Other than this you could have a head gasket leak between 2 adjacent cylinders, this should be picked up by aa compression test.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 10, 2005 Author Share Posted May 10, 2005 Had a guy round earlier who knew more then me, and it seems to be something to do with a sticky valve or some other engine problem rather than ignition, as it really does seem to be number 3 cylinder at fault, it backfires through the carb when the HT lead is attached but is fine when disconnected, could this rectify itself or is it going to cost me big bucks to fix the engine, hadn't factored an engine rebuild into the restoration. Once I have all the brakes replaced and bled I shall take her down to my garage for that compression test.thanksStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted May 10, 2005 Share Posted May 10, 2005 Hi Stuart,If you do it yourself it should be fairly painless. A compression gauge is a pretty cheap tool, the one I'm using at the moment cost about £15 - how much does a garage charge to do this test? You may find that a sticking valve can be freed by taking off the rocker shaft and applying oil to the valve and working it by hand. More likely the head will need to come off and the valves reground or replaced, new springs are also quite likel;y to be needed. All quite DIY-able, but you are getting towards needing valve seat inserts once you start to grind away the lead memory on the old seats, otherwise the rebuilt head will be intolerant of modern fuels without lead. Worst case an exchange standard spec cylinder head should be well under £250 even from the most expensive suppliers. Of course this doesn't mean you won't find problems with the bottom end of the engine. If you need substantial bottom end work then it's better to know this before spending money getting the top end done.Cheers,Bill. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 ok, I have had another think, It may be cheaper to transplant another engine in, and to stop me hankering after a Vitesse, how about a 1500 Dolomite twin carb ? I assume its the same engine as a spitfire and don't they use the same brakes as a Herald ? I would rather spend £300 on a donor car and do the work, than spend that cash on an engine repair. it would have O/D on 3rd and 4th also. My problem at the moment is that I want a faster Herald, ie a Vitesse, and my plan is to buy restore and sell until I get the funds for a Vitesse 2ltr CV, but as I prefer the beauty of the Herald, a 1500 tc with O/D would satisfy my need for speed and I could concentrate on a proper rebuild knowing I would not sell once she was complete. So is it viable, I would not consider just replacing a good engine, as I would lose originality, but if its the hand I have been dealt, so be it, So the big question is is it fairly simple to do the Dolly exchange, engine and gearbox and propshaft needed too ? any info would be greatfully received.thanksStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Problem with this plan could be that you will fit a 1500 engine that needs work- I would follow Bill's thoughts and sort out the engine you have, have you taken the rocker cover off the engine and inspected the valve train?- if ok- do a compression test- if the other 3 are ok- i.e about 140-150PSi and all similar take the head off and get no. 3 sorted. Gunsons market a good compression tester for about £15- available at good motor factors and I think Halfords- invaluable tool. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 UPDATE !!!I have taken off the rocker cover, my skills stretch to that at least, what I have found is a believe a bent connecting rod ? so when I turn the engine over on the starter all the rockers move except the one with the bent rod, but when I hold this rocker down and make it contact with the bent rod, it actually moves up and down with the others, so it seems what ever bent it is no longer a problem ? I am hoping this is the only damage and can be easily rectified, if so I will shelve the 1500 idea and keep her original.thanks again for your advice !Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 11, 2005 Author Share Posted May 11, 2005 second update !ok I ran the engine again and noticed even more this time, the rod inside the spring is not moving at all opposite the bent rod, so this is obviously still seized ... hence the bent rod, damn I am getting good at this engine stuff.... so what does this indicate to you technical folks ?Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldhabitat Posted May 11, 2005 Share Posted May 11, 2005 Hi Stuart, I would guess that the valve is seized in the guide, and that that cylinder head has got to come off! Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 19, 2005 Author Share Posted May 19, 2005 Right then the head is off ! I have the head with the seized valve soaking in WD40 at the moment, there is no obvious reason why it is seized ie no large deposit of rust etc, so is this the best way, what else should I be doing and how do I go about freeing the valve with out damaging anything ?thanksStuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 20, 2005 Author Share Posted May 20, 2005 nevermind, I have freed the Valve now, I just need to get a new head gasket set and a torque wrench ! closer to being on the road with each day that passes, hopefully it will be in June sometime, fingers crossed.......Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toledo Man Posted May 20, 2005 Share Posted May 20, 2005 Well done Stuart. I've never taken a head off (done 2 engine transplants on my Toledo) so you've done better than me! Glad you've solved the problem. You can't beat that feeling when you get the engine running again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith67 Posted May 22, 2005 Share Posted May 22, 2005 Hello CamoThanks for your reply about the seat belts. Hope your head goes ok.Kylie and keih :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 23, 2005 Author Share Posted May 23, 2005 thanks for the encouragement !The head is now back on with the help of my new Torque wrench (cheaper than paying someone to do it for me), but I am waiting on a new push rod and inlet/waterpump gasket before putting the rocker assembly back on, then I can test her out, then I just need 2 new tyres, a petrol pipe and a rear number plate light then off for the MOT to see what else is required....I am assuming some suspension parts may need replacing and another post will cover my Dynamo dilema....Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith67 Posted May 23, 2005 Share Posted May 23, 2005 Well keep us updated! Sounds like you have your hands full but it will be well worth it! ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 Got to drive around the block a few times last night !!pushrod arrived with the gaskets required and I put it all back together, then took her out, the engine just needs some final tappet adjusting, but she pulled nicely and ran fine considering how long off shes been sleeping...gearbox makes alot of noise that sounds like its empty, hoping use will free alot of that up. next on the list is pick up a rear number plate light from Wins and sort the petrol pipe, seems to be a tiny leak so will replace the whole thing with rubber pipe from tank to pump, re-bleed brakes and the clutch and in for the MOT next week.Stuart Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ianp Posted May 25, 2005 Share Posted May 25, 2005 Camoi see you use Winns, in E/Grinstead? if so you cant be that far from me, where are you mate?Ian Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Camo Posted May 25, 2005 Author Share Posted May 25, 2005 Hi Ian, Yeah I snuck out of work early today and checked out Wins for the first time, I was impressed with it, always nice to have a place to go that could have that hard to find part, or a heavy item you don't want to pay the postage on !!I am in Surbiton, closest junction on M25 is 9, I hope to come along to the Gatwick area meets from next month, is that your local venue ?StuartPS Sorted the leaking petrol pipe today, replaced the rubber pipe near back axle as it was perished, and got my rear number plate light fitted from Wins, so now going to set day for MOT then finishing touches hoefully, ie bleeding brakes, refitting petrol tank etc... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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