mazfg Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 I'm changing the clutch with some help from the garage round the corner from me this weekend. I wondered if it's worth me getting any other seals whilst it's all apart? Anyone have any recommendations? I have overdrive too.Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Rear crank seal could be worth having one handy in case the original is leaking - assuming you mean you've got the box off?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 If they havent been done recently I would automatically do rear crank and gearbox front n rear seals. You'll need some gaskets but they're cheap easy jobs that need doing every so often. Optional work might be a look inside the gearbox from the top cover, a gentle tighten of all the gearbox bolts as they seem to work loose quite easily, check wear on gearbox input crankshaft bronze bush, gearbox rubber mounts and gearlever bushes.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from glang If they haven't been done recently I would automatically do rear crank and gearbox front n rear seals. 143456 Rear crank oil seal. 513231 rear oil seal for the overdrive?and 132292 front oil seal for gear box? Is this easy or only do-able with a stripped down gearbox?Are these the seals you mean?I've a new overdrive mount..current one is marshmallow in texture and re-bushed the remote only last year.Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from mazfg 143456 Rear crank oil seal. 513231 rear oil seal for the overdrive?and 132292 front oil seal for gear box? Is this easy or only do-able with a stripped down gearbox?Are these the seals you mean?I've a new overdrive mount..current one is marshmallow in texture and re-bushed the remote only last year.Thanks Dont know the exact numbers but theyre the ones. Ive not done an overdrive rear seal but it looks very similar to a non overdrive box where you undo and pull off the output flange and then extract the seal. For the front one you need to unbolt the bell housing and the seal is in the back of it. Youll need a new paper gasket but theres no need to touch the internals of the box. Have you got the workshop manual? I found it online somewhere and it shows all really clearly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 just thought of something else: its probably a good idea to mark the gearbox/propshaft flange before separating it and then make sure that the flange plus bolts all go back together just as they came off to avoid any balance problems.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Are you replacing the slave cylinder while you have box off ?Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from mazfg I've a new overdrive mount..current one is marshmallow in texture and re-bushed the remote only last year. Don't discard the old one, if it's an original it will be in better condition than it's replacement within a year...Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from Rarebits Don't discard the old one, if it's an original it will be in better condition than it's replacement within a year...Cheers,Bill. True dat..... unfortunatelyI "remanufactured" the one in my Herald using the original metal parts and some Tiger Seal, with a bit of duct tape to assist with the "moulding process". This was a desperation measure that lasted beyond all expectation and in fact I'm pretty sure it was still there when I sold the car and it could even still be running round Perth WA like this. Good stuff Tiger Seal, the Vitesse has a bonnet cone made from it and that's lasted several years and counting too.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from nang Are you replacing the slave cylinder while you have box off ?Tony. Slave cylinder is about 3 years old and I bought a new master cylinder last year..so they're both good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from Rarebits Don't discard the old one, if it's an original it will be in better condition than it's replacement within a year...Cheers,Bill. The old one is really poor...it's like jelly...the new one I bought a year ago and it does desperately need to be changed. I know rubber quality is pretty poor these days...I've yet to change my engine mounts too...due to quite a lot of cracks that have appeared in the old Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 5, 2016 Share Posted April 5, 2016 It's not just the rubber quality, the construction has changed. The vertical plate which bolts to the gearbox originally had a loop formed in it's lower part, this in turn being embedded in solid rubber. The modern replacements are a simple blade sitting vertically in a bed of rubber, this doesn't end happily...Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mazfg Posted April 5, 2016 Author Share Posted April 5, 2016 Quoted from Rarebits It's not just the rubber quality, the construction has changed. The vertical plate which bolts to the gearbox originally had a loop formed in it's lower part, this in turn being embedded in solid rubber. The modern replacements are a simple blade sitting vertically in a bed of rubber, this doesn't end happily...Cheers,Bill. Hmmm....what should I do Bill? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Nick,I think Greg Tunstell sells good ones. Not much use to you if you've left Aus though I suppose.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Quoted from mazfg Hmmm....what should I do Bill? I'd be inclined to salvage the metalwork from the original and experiment with a bit of Polyurethane resin. Easier said than done I know, but options are limited,Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 Many years ago I made an OD mount from a used oe GT6 engine mount and the remains of an OD mounting. Think I had to make the whole mounting plate too. This was on a herald. A few owners down the road I was told off for bodgery by somebody on here. Who (I think) fitted a repro mount. Later refitted my one. (He may be along top correct me if I got this wrong)Anyway, on that theme, I wonder if another engine or gearbox mount could be adapted easily. A bit of angle steel bolted to a bobbin type (ie landy/ford) engine mount may work, height being the issue. Or even jag e type engine mount (I have used these on my toledo and my spitfire) and they are available as OE still. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny-Jimbo Posted April 6, 2016 Share Posted April 6, 2016 This is where we really need someone that works in a motorfactors with all the catalogues etc so they can go through them all and find mounts that would be suitable with some adaptation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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