Oil sealing block

[Paul Garvey]

Time to sort the leak once and for all...quick question before I start - do I have to remove the timing cover to replace the sealing block (Stripped thread).  Thanks

[junkuser]

Is there a reason not to fit Helicoils or similar Paul?

[Davemate]

I did as I replaced the oil seal in the timing cover at the same time.
If you have air tools the crank nut just pops off so its not a hard job,and for the little extra that it costs I would put a new timing chain and tenstioner in.
I used a helicoil in mine.

[Paudman]

No you don't have to remove it, just undo and remove the bolts that run through it. I replaced mine a few years back to prevent a terrible oil leak and the new metal block has worked superbly ever since. Just keep an eye on the area of the timing cover seal that will be disturbed by the work, you don't want to fix one leak and start another. However as Davemate says you might want to think about replacing everything at the same time and thereby get the peace of mind of knowing it's been done, and less hassle later when something else gives up.

[Paul Garvey]

Thanks, I've accumulated a couple of spare alloy blocks so don't need to helicoil.  I've been putting off as didn't want to 'bust a gut' on the crank nut.  I've 'half' the duplex set up for a small crank so looks like I may as well put off of a while and splash out on the outstanding duplex cam sprocket and do it all in one go.  In my 'parts bin' I've a mint Mk2 sump (sorry - mine's a Mk2 Spitfire) with the mesh still in one piece and will put that on as well - any suggestions for cleaning out?

[Velocita Rosso]

Whoa!...are you doing this with:
Engine out of car?
From underneath the car?
You have the sump off already?  

[Paul Garvey]

No - haven't started as yet and was hoping for a 'quickfix' from underneath, but reading the replies think I'll do it once and do it right and get the missing duplex cam sprocket, remove radiator, put on axle stands and get into it - put in the duplex timing and replacement alloy sealing block all at the same time.

[Richard B]

Paul_Garvey wrote:

and replacement alloy sealing block all at the same time.

Check that the replacement block is flat along the surface that the sump meets. I used a steel rule as a straight edge.

The Alloy ones can distort something chronic. Thats why the new steel ones are becoming popular.

[Paul Garvey]

Thanks, I was tempted with a steel one but they're a bit pricey.

[Velocita Rosso]

...and on your back ,getting the block end seals in will be a beggar.
Are you using rubber or wood?

[Paul Garvey]

I know - awful job that's why I've been putting off for ages...I've wood end seals so expect will be a lot easier than rubber!

[mjwman]

A Steel one is just £30 from TSSC club shop non members can buy. Not that pricey for a final peace of mind solution surely.