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Gearbox oil, not in the gearbox.


G.in_Lux

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Oh no siree. All over the garage floor.

having looked under the car, all the oil seems to be pouring out of the Overdrive area, as the plate is black, and the three bolts (what I belive are the drain plug, relief valve and non return valve plugs) had  a lot of oil on 'em.

Don't know if this is from my last spin, when checking the OD was working, or if it's leaking whilst stationary.

So, I assume there are gaskets to be replaced... which ones would be involved? Is this a painful, messy and really difficult job? Gearbox and all out?

Unless someone has prior experience, and I just have to do something really elementary...?


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Button it...

You have a square bolt on the right side of the gearbox, about halfway up. This is the level for the GBox & OD. put oil in until it dribbles down the side of the gearbox.

The Diff (which I still have to check) has an inaccessible bolt on it. I think the bugger has to come off to be able to fill it...

Thanks Charlie... I'll price one up (the list is getting long :( )

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Topping up the differential involves getting underneath the car but isn't too difficult really, even I managed without buggering something up. Only major problem with filling up both the gearbox and diff is that the filler holes are on the side of their respective parts. Best way to get round this I found was to get a really big syringe (a chemists will sell you one for pennies, provided you don't look like you're going to use it for illicit purposes!) and use that to squirt the EP90 in.

Otherwise you get a lot dripping on you. And it doesn't taste nice.

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Thanks lads :)

The speedo drive appears loose... and it's bloody difficult getting my fingers to it as I have a billionth of an inch space.

What's the breather? it that the metal thingy in the little gap between the top of the OD (Type D) and the gearstick changer thingy, next to the unbudgeable pressure valve? If so how is it cleaned?

Running the car will be difficult, as it's up on stilts, the wheels being in a garage 20 miles away, currently being sandblasted and repainted properly, rather than with a duff aerosol from Auto5 (the equivalent of Hellfords)

Gosh i'm learning a lot :D

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G.in_Belgium wrote:
Button it...

You have a square bolt on the right side of the gearbox, about halfway up.  


Hello,

Does anyone have any hints as to how to get that bolt out? It appears to be 12mm square (7/8"?). I can get a 12 point 12mm socket to sit snugly on it, but I am afraid I will round the bolt out as it only holds the corners. It have not been able to move it with adjustable spanners etc. so it seems to be quite tight, so I will probably need a socket and maybe a long handle, so it will need to be held properly so I can put my weight on it.

Thanks,

Daniel

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I've always used a 1/2", 12-point box wrench (spanner) with good luck...UNLESS some previous strongman vastly overtightened it. Only other time that wrench hasn't worked for me is on an alloy TR gearbox case, where dissimilar metal reaction seems to have bonded plug to case more or less permanently.

Yet another option, particularly on a tight or otherwise obstinant plug, would be to use a very large (12" long or better) adjustable wrench. With such, the jaws will usually be more than deep enough to avoid any possibility of rounding off the plug. (That also works on slightly stubborn Girling brake adjusters IF you have room to maneuver such a wrench!)

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Thanks everyone,

I got my fractions mixed up in my previous message - believe it or not, this is the first time I have ever used inch-based tools and it's a bit odd until you get used to it.

I wonder why they didn't use a conventional bolt head?

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I've recent had a similar problem on a sump plug which I couldn't get undone (see technical section) so I bought an 11mm Irwin socket from Machine mart as recomended by Wolf and it did the trick. Previousy I've always used a 7/16" open spanner or mole grips but this time it wouldn't budge until I bought the Irwin.

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