mowerman Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 I know a few people on this forum who run their triumph`s on synthetic and I will do the same once the rebuild is finished. But what do you use for running in? Synthetic (EXPENSIVE) or run in using cheap oil and then change the filter and refill with synthetic? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Freebird Posted October 16, 2006 Share Posted October 16, 2006 SteveIn bike circles it's well known that synthetic oils actually prevent parts from bedding in due to the excellent lubricity. Best to do as you suggest and use a normal, though still good quality oil for running in. Don't bother with "proper" running in oil, it's an expensive option.I reckon you are gonna beat me onto the road. The PI block was scored down No5, so I've had my TC block rebored to take the PI plus 20 pistons. Got it all back now, but going on holiday on Thursday, so no time to build it up. I'm not worried about the PI block, still a good price at £50 for the set of pistons, high lift cam and PI head, which I've has converted to unleaded. Cheers mateGlen. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 I always use the cheapest oil, asda value or something, to run in. Has less (any????) additives so not great as an oil, but lets everything bed in fast. To be honest, the engine should not be stressed at all during initial run in, and it gets thoroughly drained after a few hundred miles and decent oil used. Fully synthetic 5w40 in my vitesse, good stuff, but again not sure of high mileage benefits, do you want the oil in there for 20,000 miles? Its a thought....BTW, who did you use for thye machining, any recommendation? (I am in Brighton, so pretty local)CheersClive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hi Glen,pleased to hear you`ve made good progress on the engine. My thoughts about running in have been confirmed, cheapo oil then change to synthetic. Don`t know when I`ll be back on the road, still a few problems to sort out with the re-machined head. Gearbox and o/d are in the car, block should go in this weekend then it`s just a case of building everything around it. Have a good holiday,Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Clive,I use Guildford Auto Services for all my maching, based in, surprise, Guildford. Tel 01483 564886. Really good service, not the cheapest but the quality of the work is good and they use decent parts as well. All the balancing and lightening work was carried out by Basset Down Balancing, again not cheap but excellent quality. If you want some work done I`m quite happy for you to bring stuff to my place in Horsham and I`ll deliver it to Guildford Autos for you, same for collection. PM me if that helps you out?Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 thanks for the heads up. Not needed at the mo, my vitesse is STILL waiting to be taken apart for its mainly body rebuild. Tempted to replace the head with another, the current unleaded head sucks oil like you would not believe for a 10,000 mile head. It was done by a well known seller of racing parts, but think it is worth redoing! Also some balance issues, so may need to spend some more cash there!Anyway, I may get up to Gatwick TSSC at some point, I think there is a day out soon, or have I missed it?CheersClive Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Millers do a running in oil, and it's not expensive, its only 15 quid for 5 litres. Fair price for a healthy engine. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mowerman Posted October 17, 2006 Author Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hi Clive,the next TSSC meeting is at the weekend I think! I`ll have to check the Courier.Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigel Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 Hi A couple of links to oil articles herehttp://www.joegibbsracingoil.com/http://www.aaoil.co.uk/frameset.cfm?page=http://www.nutidltd.co.uk/sub_page.cfm?id=132I used a running in oil (commer I think) for around 350 miles then a cheap oil correct grade 20/50 for a further thousand miles Then to a fully synthetic oil currently using silkolene Pro r 10/50 On my 2ltr sixpotI buy this from Opie oils Club members get a discount costs around £25 to £30 for 5 litres fully synthetic next day delivery cheaper on post if you buy four 5 ltrshttp://www.opieoils.co.uk/PS would not run a 10/40w oil I think 40w is to thin for a triumph engine I ran a bearing using a BP 10/30w oil a few years back Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Bancroft Posted October 17, 2006 Share Posted October 17, 2006 I used Comma running in oil for a similar mileage to Nigel.Am now using Valvoline VR1 20W/50 mineral oil in both six cyl cars- seems very good.Don't skimp on oil. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1971vitesse Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 The engine on my Vitess has been fully rebuilt. I have stuck Halfords classic oil in for 200 miles then I have gone to Millers classic oil. car has only done 500 miles. Do I wait for another 500 before changing to a synthetic oil?more thoughts on 10/50, 10/40 oils would be nice. No idea what kind of oil to go for next. Heres a recent pic of my Vit.CheersDavid Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 29, 2006 Share Posted October 29, 2006 Cheapo supermarket oil or 'proper' running in-oil, it's more in how that what you use.Definitely minimise strain for the first 500 miles, then progressively cane it.But also, and especially at first, drive in an 'on/off' manner. Foot hardish down in an appropriate gear, so that the pistons are pushed hard down and the rings pushed out against the bores.Then lift off and overrun, closed throttle, so that there is a vacuum in the cylinder, to release the rings and suck oil up into the bores.No continuous speed running.Then the rings will wear into the bores and the bores will not glaze.Also, as late as possible before the first start-up, add more cam assembly oil, the lithium containing stuff, onto the cams. If you put the head on last, you can do this before you add the cam followers. Cams and followers can experience hundreds of thousands of PSI and need special lubrication in the initial period before the oil starts to really flow.John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.