Tim Hunt Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I recently obtained some replacement stainless steel braided oil cooler hoses. I thought this a sensible precaution since the current hoses are over 15 years old now and cannot be expected to last for ever. I need to cut two of the hoses to fit an in line thermostat. Last time I used a hacksaw to do this and it really made a mess of the braiding. It occurred to me that there must be a better way to make a neat cut - heavy duty shears? an engineering shop guillotine? Has anyone any suggestions based on their experience?Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Angle grinder for the sleeving, then knife. Anything that squashes the hose may not be a great idea.Personally would not use braided stuff though..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hunt Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks for your rapid response Clive - why not braided for you though? My choice was dictated by a sad experience on the 1982 RBRR. Just before the run I had had a new steering rack fitted by Dunham & Haines, then a Leyland Main Dealer in Luton. Unfortunately they had managed to nip one of my un-braided cooler hoses and it eventually chafed through, resulting in sudden total oil loss on Bodmin Moor, lunched bearings and an RAC recovery. In fairness to D & H they did accept responsibility and rebuilt the bottom end at their expense. It was cold comfort though for having failed to finish that year's Run. I just thought that braiding would improve the protection of the hose although I did route the hose carefully and added additional protection where it passed close to any metal surface.Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 If you decided on braided ,then use some pvc electrical tape to bind the `meat side` then use HD hand shears eg sheet metal shears, then cut on the scrap side of the tape, as when you cut the braiding,as its woven, the strands do not frey. Then use a ferrule .However.............braiding is not necessary if you have the correct quality hose Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Hello Tim,I second the angle grinder with a thin cut off blade, clean and neat. The professional hose suppliers use an abrasive chop saw to cut hose, so very similar.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 braiding gives better protection and helps prevent hose burst if say the hose breaks down or delaminates inside,you may not see it and it could pop.some say you can't see the rubber hoses condition with braiding,but if it leaks it will still hold together and 'may' give you some time to cut the engine without serious damage. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TedTaylor Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 I normally use my workshop guillotine for cutting heavy hose - reinforced or not. Just makes a clean quick cut. Smaller pipe I use hand shears if reinforced and/or a good sharp 'Stanley' knife if not depending on my mood and what is at hand.MUT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 As Mr EFI says, concerns about not being able to see the hose itself. On my current build I am using a set of Throttle bodies etc bought from a crashed kitcar. All braided fuel hoses. I have removed them all, and indeed took the braiding off one to reveal it is sytec hose but with no specification on it. Replaced with Gates Barricade hose.....If the braided hoses were purchased with a full specification, and an area where rubbing may be an issue, I would consider braided as being OK. Buying the cheapest braided hoses (and that I am sure you have not done) is a recipe for disaster....At the moment I have a supply of Nissan oil hoses supplied for forklift trucks. I believe it retails at £120 for a 2m length! Maybe a little overspecced for a car though, but excellent hoses. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GreenV8Machine Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thin disc in a grinder. I stopped using braided hose after I found a leak on one of the carb feeds. Peeled back the braiding to find it it was perished and split. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Better than insulating tape around the hose is a Jubilee clip, which allows you to apply some force whilst being guided by the clip edge. The wire braid is held firmly against the rubber, so that a sharp hacksaw can cut it, although a sharp Stanley can too.After cutting around to the clip's screw, loosen slightly and rotate, re-tighten to allow a sclean straight cut al around.Works for all hose types!John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim Hunt Posted October 14, 2014 Author Share Posted October 14, 2014 Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions, you've given me plenty to think about.Tim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Velocita Rosso Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 tim_hunt wrote:Thanks to all for the helpful suggestions, you've given me plenty to think about.Tim....steady!! ;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GT6 M Posted October 14, 2014 Share Posted October 14, 2014 Tim why are ye wanting to used hose pipe, takes far too much room up, looks orrid with monstrous bigg fittings,and moer than likely causes a flow restrictionee , cos the actuall unions have too small a hole in em as being Hydraulic fittingssome thing to thing aboot, only bit of pipe is 200 bar hydraulic hose [ this type will not rot,or break doon } to join cooler to end pipesall done in 15 mm copper pipe, neat and tidym[url=http://s545.photobucket.com/user/marcusaurailius/media/GT6%20Engine%20%20area/BILD1746.jpg.html][/url] Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
esxefi Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 FWIW my cooler hoses are Teflon lined( I had money then :-/) which is superior to rubber and been on the car for 20yrs with no problems to date.but as Marcus says hard lines are probably the best bet,could even do them in aluminium if you want lightness. ::) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted October 15, 2014 Share Posted October 15, 2014 Hello Esexefi,hard line are fine if supported well, especially copper with compression fittings.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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