machoman Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 Hey All, I just bought a colortune and the tool to adjust carbs.How do you use the card adjusting tool. I tought it went inside the top of the card where the oil pluger goes. I tried it on the front carb and it would not fit down far enough and the second one felt like it set into the carb right but would not turn.Thanks Jerry :o Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slowdown Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 The carb adjusting tool is like a tube with a long Allen key inside it. The whole thing fits into the top of the carb after you remove the plunger. The tube should engage with the top of the piston so the it cannot be rotated, and should be held in this position. The Allen key can then be pushed a little further in to engage the needle, and rotated to change to setting and richen/weaken the mixture. All as described in your manual (you do have a manual, don't you?)Things to watch are to securely hold the knurled top of the tube whilst turning the key, as otherwise you will tear the diaphragm. Sometimes the key will not engage because the small plastic sleeve on it is too far down the shaft - should be about an inch from the bottom. After using the tool, check the oil level within the dashpot and top-up if necessary. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rotoflex Posted March 15, 2009 Share Posted March 15, 2009 To get an idea of how it is all supposed to work, you can take the top off a carb.Note the orientation of the words stamped on top of the carb.Take out the four crosspoint-head screws on the top. DO NOT TWIST THE TOP, or you may damage the rubber diaphragm underneath.You should remove it by pulling it STRAIGHT UP.You may need to persuade it a bit to let go, use a small hammer like a tack hammer with a piece of wood between it and the carb body to tap it at likely-looking locations.Don't let it suddenly sproing up and get away. There is a long spring inside that you don't want to bend or otherwise damage.When the top comes off, you can see the top of the piston, where the pins on the tool locate, & look down inside to see the socket the Allen key will fit.If you wish, you can pull the whole piston assembly straight up & out to marvel at it. The needle is attached to the bottom.Note that the operation of the tool is to prevent the piston from rotating and stretching/damaging the diaphragm while the Allen key part turns. When putting it back together, note the keys & indentations where the rubber diaphragm is located on the piston & carb body.Be careful with the internal surfaces & don't mar them. Put it back together before you go at it with the tool.I have worked with a couple of carbs that had stuck adjusters & had to work on them to loosen them up with the piston removed from the carb. If that's required, after it is accomplished pull the other piston out and note the position of the needle relative to the bottom of the piston, & adjust the rehabilitated carb to that position to be at a closer point for initial adjustment of the repaired carb.Edit:If you've got the CDSE Strombergs & need to consider a rebuild, there's 1973 Emissions Control Systems service guide floating around the internet in .pdf form. This looks like one:www.mv.com/ipusers/last/emissions/booklet.pdfThe Haynes book for Strombergs is really good to have also, but the .pdf above is more specific to the Stromberg CDSE.Slowdown wrote:Things to watch are to securely hold the knurled top of the tube whilst turning the keyI use a pair of pliers to hold the knurled part absolutely stationary so there'll be no slipping. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machoman Posted March 15, 2009 Author Share Posted March 15, 2009 Thanks guys, I will try again when I have a chance! I do have a Haynes manuel i need to go thru.Thanks Again!Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
don cook1 Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 The last thing you want is a torn diaphragm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 16, 2009 Share Posted March 16, 2009 I modified my last tool and drilled and tapped two holesin the knurled rim to take 3/16" dia tommy bar each side of the allen key hole, or the one with a dog drive ,, easier than pliers and has less weight which affects the settings if you are heavy handed if that helps Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
machoman Posted March 19, 2009 Author Share Posted March 19, 2009 Pete, Do you have any pics of your car? It looks great on your avitar./Jerry Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 Well Not the right place for this but as you asked found a few and it now has 2 mgf seats not the one showing the before and after shes only a 1600 with 631 and single bell silencer type 16 calipers ,courier spring ,servo ,and on and on PeteOh heck thats an old pic of the car as we bought it must try harder...and cant delete it Pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted March 19, 2009 Share Posted March 19, 2009 this is only a little better pete Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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