Davemate Posted October 18, 2011 Share Posted October 18, 2011 The clutch on the wife's 1200 (64 convertable) has its biting point right at the top and the pedal is very stiff compared to mine (1500 + box) When I refurbed the clutch slave cylinder it was the type with the groove all the way around it,does this mean I have the earler clutch and is the pedal harder to operate on these Can I just fit the newer clutch and the corasponding slave cylinder when it does give up the ghost,which it must do soon as the pedal is right up the top !Before I got the car it sat in a barn for 20years ,could the clutch just be knackerd Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scimher Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I was at my local garage the other day, getting my 1200 convertible MOT'd..(failed - the little minx, unbeknown to me, had blown her nearside front indicator bulb..could have sworn it was working right up until then....but she definitely has a sense of humour!!....& the horn...which I did know about...!!!)....Where was I?...Oh, yes...I remarked she needed both new clutch cylinders...(The retired owner was trying to get her into gear to negotiate the pit & 'rollers' & she did'nt want any of it...One man car, she is!!!) he said that you should 'bleed' or work the slave cylinder BEFORE it is fitted..(or something like that - not being technically minded, it did'nt really sink in!!!)If you think it is worth investigating I can clarify details???Geoff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Dave, def the early slave cylinder, and I "think" it will be the early clutch. You will need the flywheel off a later car as well as the complete clutch and I think the clutch release bearing arm is different too. None of those parts should be difficult. Downside is I weighed a few flywheels (amongst other stuff) in a little while ago. But others are bound to have them lurking.Geoff. the only thing I can think of is he suggests you put the slave cylinder vertical (or maybe 45degrees or something) to get the air up to the bleed nipple. But I don't think it is an issue, as long as the bleed nipple is on the top. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 I don't think the earlier clutch should feel any heavier than than the later type - at least I don't remember being any difference. For a while I had both types in two different cars without any obvious difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 [quote=cliftyhanger You will need the flywheel off a later car ... [/quote]Are you sure as I don't remember changing the flywheel when I upgraded mine - although I do have a crap memory!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 Nope, not certain! but my memory is a bit hazy at times. Its those teenagers that have done that.***EDIT***I win! well according to my trusty Kipping catalogue anyway.States it needs the flywheel, clutch kit, release arm and slave from a diaphragm clutched car. and watch for crank bolt hole sizes..... (I think that applies to dolly 1300, not sure about late MK IV spits though) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davemate Posted October 19, 2011 Author Share Posted October 19, 2011 As i said the pedal is quite a bit stiffer than the pedal in mine.The pedal is firm all the way down to the floor and the biting point is at the upper most half inch.Both slave and master cylinder have had new seal kits fitted if the pedal is no lighter in the "modern" clutch i'll replace like for like, so i guess its box out --new clutch in --box in or can anyone sugest anything Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mark Hammond Posted October 19, 2011 Share Posted October 19, 2011 FWIW I always thought that the earlier clutch, if anything, felt lighter that the later one. My car built with the earlier clutch, now sports the later type. To convert, the car needs the later flywheel to match, and the correct slave cylinder and release carrier to suit the later release bearing. I converted purely as the old coil spring clutches are becoming difficult to source. As many readers know, I am a stickler for originality too! ;) ;)Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Cureton Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 1218 wrote: To convert, the car needs the later flywheel to matchMarkI stand corrected :B Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 always worth alook at the pedal pivot, if seized you dont always allow the Mcyl to recuperate when a disc wears thinner the pedal load goes up and the clamp load goes down , hence a heavier pedal effort followed by clutch slip ,fitting a new disc of the correct thickness will correct this.coil covers take a thicker disc linning than diaphragms you must never inter mix them , plays havoc with the clamp and pedal loads Peter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted October 20, 2011 Share Posted October 20, 2011 I suppose one could accidentally install a 6.25" coil spring clutch driven plate under a 6.5" diaphragm cover, but is it even possible to do the other way 'round? Not that I'm looking to try.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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