Ignition light staying on ?

[D412REN]

What do I need 

it’s for a 13/60 1970 

thanks 

Darren. 

[PeteStupps]

Do you know if it's running a dynamo or alternator? Either way, whichever one of these devices driven by the fanbelt isn't putting out power so your battery isn't getting charged.

Check for loose / unattached cables in the first place. If it's a dynamo it may have a broken or missing brush. Or could be a couple of other things. Does the warning light change if you rev the engine, or is it solidly on whatever happens?

[D412REN]

8 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

Do you know if it's running a dynamo or alternator? Either way, whichever one of these devices driven by the fanbelt isn't putting out power so your battery isn't getting charged.

Check for loose / unattached cables in the first place. If it's a dynamo it may have a broken or missing brush. Or could be a couple of other things. Does the warning light change if you rev the engine, or is it solidly on whatever happens?

The light is permanently on 

thanks. 
Darren. 

[RobPearce]

As Darren said, it could be several things, so we need more information. Is it a dynamo or alternator? If you're not sure how to tell, post a photo of the engine bay (preferably from the front left) and we'll be able to tell you.

[glang]

I think once you have confirmed the dynamo/alternator is being driven by the fanbelt the next step will be to call out an auto electrician....

[Velocita Rosso]

Broken small gauge wire from source to ign lamp is either broken or not connected

[D412REN]

22 hours ago, PeteStupps said:

Do you know if it's running a dynamo or alternator? Either way, whichever one of these devices driven by the fanbelt isn't putting out power so your battery isn't getting charged.

Check for loose / unattached cables in the first place. If it's a dynamo it may have a broken or missing brush. Or could be a couple of other things. Does the warning light change if you rev the engine, or is it solidly on whatever happens?

No it stays the same. ?

 

13 hours ago, RobPearce said:

As Darren said, it could be several things, so we need more information. Is it a dynamo or alternator? If you're not sure how to tell, post a photo of the engine bay (preferably from the front left) and we'll be able to tell you.

Dynamo 

 

9 hours ago, Velocita Rosso said:

Broken small gauge wire from source to ign lamp is either broken or not connected

What colour cable would that be please

many thanks. 
darren. 

[glang]

On 14/05/2022 at 14:05, Velocita Rosso said:

Broken small gauge wire from source to ign lamp is either broken or not connected

Im really struggling to see how a having a wire disconnected can keep the ignition light on?

[RobPearce]

24 minutes ago, glang said:

Im really struggling to see how a having a wire disconnected can keep the ignition light on?

Indeed.

Well, specifically, I cannot see how losing the wire VR appears to be describing could do anything other than ensure the light NEVER comes on. However, loss of the brown/green from dynamo to control box might, as the bulb is driven from the brown/yellow.

[PeteStupps]

Yeah the light will stay on if either of the connections on the dynamo are loose or disconnected.

@D412REN, there should be two cables attached to the rear of the dynamo: a brown&yellow cable at the top plus a brown&green smaller one lower down. Check they are both present and tight on the terminals. Sometimes the spade connectors get loose and need squashing tighter.

If they're both there and connected up, you've either got an issue with the control box (black plastic rectangle thing on bulkhead) or the dynamo.

I'd look at the dynamo first. You'll probably have to remove it to see, but have a look down the rear end of it and see if you can see two black carbon squares (brushes) held in by springs, either side pressing against the copper armature (which spins around). These wear out and stop making contact with the armature, and it's also possible that they are present but the springs aren't located correctly or that the wires have chafed and broken. I'll dig my spare dynamo out and take a photo, which will hopefully be clearer than this explanation...!

[D412REN]

1 hour ago, PeteStupps said:

Yeah the light will stay on if either of the connections on the dynamo are loose or disconnected.

@D412REN, there should be two cables attached to the rear of the dynamo: a brown&yellow cable at the top plus a brown&green smaller one lower down. Check they are both present and tight on the terminals. Sometimes the spade connectors get loose and need squashing tighter.

If they're both there and connected up, you've either got an issue with the control box (black plastic rectangle thing on bulkhead) or the dynamo.

I'd look at the dynamo first. You'll probably have to remove it to see, but have a look down the rear end of it and see if you can see two black carbon squares (brushes) held in by springs, either side pressing against the copper armature (which spins around). These wear out and stop making contact with the armature, and it's also possible that they are present but the springs aren't located correctly or that the wires have chafed and broken. I'll dig my spare dynamo out and take a photo, which will hopefully be clearer than this explanation...!

Yes I have the thick brown and yellow plus a small brown and yellow underneath I have put brass connectors back on with rubber boots. 
the dynamo is brand new. 
so I’ve ordered a new voltage regulator. 
when I removed the top today the valve to the right 

if I push it down the light goes off. 
but then comes back straight away. 
thanks for the info 

Darren. 

[RobPearce]

8 minutes ago, D412REN said:

the dynamo is brand new. 

Did you follow the "polarising" instructions when fitting? You need to establish a base magnetic field, which is done by momentarily connecting the smaller 'F' terminal directly to battery live, a few times.

[PeteStupps]

45 minutes ago, D412REN said:

when I removed the top today the valve to the right 

if I push it down the light goes off. 
but then comes back straight away. 

Be very careful when playing with the regulator! They're finicky sods 

[glang]

Yes and they have an unfused permanent live supply! 

[D412REN]

***** update *****

I bought a brand new voltage regulator from evil bay 

put on on Wednesday 

and yes the light is still on 

I bought a second hand unit on market place 

for 5.00 at it works fine 

the chap on eBay said 100% genuine Lucas 

100% total 💩 

look on the base made in china 😳🙈☹️
many thanks 

Darren. 

[Clive]

Welcome to the minefield of new parts.

Lucas, along with other old "trusted" brand names are now just names on packaging, the content made by (probably) the lowest bidder. To get quality takes some digging.

[Rosbif]

11 hours ago, Clive said:

Welcome to the minefield of new parts.

Lucas, along with other old "trusted" brand names are now just names on packaging,

Exactly that. a couple of weeks ago I ordered a new indicator lever mechanism from a supplier here in France, they made no reference to it being Lucas or anybody else. When it arrived it was in a Lucas box and marked Lucas, England" note not MADE in England. The quality however does look good, better than the cheap looking broken one it replaces, in fact I compared it to the one fitted when I bought the car, a Lucas, that was replaced by the copy about 3 years ago and was very similar. So yes, the names on the boxes are now just names used under licence or bought up by others and quality cannot be assumed based on past reputation.

[Clive]

9 minutes ago, Rosbif said:

Exactly that. a couple of weeks ago I ordered a new indicator lever mechanism from a supplier here in France, they made no reference to it being Lucas or anybody else. When it arrived it was in a Lucas box and marked Lucas, England" note not MADE in England. The quality however does look good, better than the cheap looking broken one it replaces, in fact I compared it to the one fitted when I bought the car, a Lucas, that was replaced by the copy about 3 years ago and was very similar. So yes, the names on the boxes are now just names used under licence or bought up by others and quality cannot be assumed based on past reputation.

Driving home from Castle Combe recently (Much later than anticipated, the "hotel" I booked was so dreadful I refused to stay) my headlight/indicator stalk started playing up. When on main beam it kept going off, but OK on flash. Dipped was OK luckily.

That was a new "Lucas" switch when I built the car. Now 7 years old and a fair amount of nightime use. I have run a fit a fine file between the main beam contacts and bent them very slightly to improve the contact pressure, but the switch does still feel a bit floppy. Guess I ought to find a good original switch....

The wiper stalk was a lucky find, genuine NOS TR7 item which fits perfectly, feels as good as teh day I fitted it. And that has had plenty of use.....