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Battery draining, dynamo not charging


Jack Hartshorn

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Hi, I ran into a problem where my battery was going flat every time I come back from a drive, we have tried to resolve it to no avail, would anyone know what I could do to fix this? So far we have replaced the voltage control box, dynamo and the battery is only a month old. Thank you.

 

hi everyone, thank you for all the help, I’ve swapped the dynamo got a new battery and a new control box and a new earth and it’s finally running again, thank you for all of the help. It’s very much appreciated!

Edited by Jack Hartshorn
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  • Jack Hartshorn changed the title to Battery draining, dynamo not charging

You haven't by any chance got an alarm or blue tooth radio fitted have you?

My daughter purchased a retro blue tooth radio for her classic car. All was fine if the car was used regularly, if not, the battery went flat because the blue tooth (not radio) is always on. Eventually it wrecked the battery, a very large tractor size version fitted by a previous owner.

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I think a bit of investigation is required so start by charging the battery with it disconnected from the car. After a day or so remove charger, measure battery voltage and put it back on the car however before connecting the second terminal set your multimeter to DC amps and measure between it and the battery terminal (should read zero). Set the multimeter back to DC volts, start the car and measure the volts again across the battery. You might have to wait a few minutes and rev the engine a bit but the reading should be higher than the previous one. 

With these tests youre trying to prove the battery is good, theres nothing draining it and the cars charging system is working so let us know the results....

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I agree with glang on testing the battery off the car.

An additional very indicative test you could do is test the electrolyte in each cell with an hydrometer if you are lucky enough to have a battery that isn't 'sealed for life'. A bad move for classic car owners, but good for making more money for the battery manufacturers.

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All relevant earth and supply connections clean/good condition.

There is info in most manuals about checking the various aspects of the charging system.

One thing I did find with this, was (if memory serves), when checking dynamo voltage direct from dynamo, it should be giving out about 13v(this is from memory so maybe not exact) when the car is at around 1000rmp(again this from memory), according to the manual.

My original dynamo was only giving out around 6v, so thought it must be faulty. Tried two others and similar v readings!.

in the end it was the control box that had failed!.

Quite a lengthy thread I started with my problems around this, maybe about a year ago?

Good luck, Dave

Edited by Dave Clasper
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First, do a drop test on the battery to s3 if a cell has gone. Second, has the red light ever come on ? Has the bulb gone in the red light dash warning. This will stop any charging. Try a continuity test on the thin wire from dynamo/ alternator to red light bulb holder. This, if broken will also not allow a charge..  It's amazing how many people do not realise how much is dependent on that red light.

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16 minutes ago, Velocita Rosso said:

First, do a drop test on the battery to s3 if a cell has gone. Second, has the red light ever come on ? Has the bulb gone in the red light dash warning. This will stop any charging. Try a continuity test on the thin wire from dynamo/ alternator to red light bulb holder. This, if broken will also not allow a charge..  It's amazing how many people do not realise how much is dependent on that red light.

Are you sure about the need to have a good bulb cos my dynamo will generate an output ok without one? One of the tests of a dynamo in the workshop manual is to disconnect all external wiring from the dynamo and install a jump wire between its two terminals so that when running you can measure its self generated output....

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could even be the starter going to earth , really needs to   do some basic checks when he returns from his run out , battery may be ok is the dynamo charging is the wiring from the dynamo ok to be honest not hard to find the problem . bit of detective work required paul

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1 hour ago, RobPearce said:

It may depend on the control box but I think dynamos normally work without the light, whereas alternators usually don't.

Yes looks like the bulb just earths down via the regulator through the dynamo windings and when it starts to generate the output opposes the battery voltage and the bulb doesnt have enough current flow to illuminate. I was going to change the bulb for an LED which wont affect the charging but it might illuminate brightly at strange times due to them working across a wide range of voltages...

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17 hours ago, glang said:

Yes looks like the bulb just earths down via the regulator through the dynamo windings and when it starts to generate the output opposes the battery voltage and the bulb doesnt have enough current flow to illuminate. I was going to change the bulb for an LED which wont affect the charging but it might illuminate brightly at strange times due to them working across a wide range of voltages...

Glang,

LED's won't light when the output voltage goes higher than battery voltage. Being diodes they only allow current to flow in one direction. So if wired so they light when there is no output they will only light when output is below battery voltage by a large enough amount to start light emission.

Regards,

Paul

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3 hours ago, drofgum said:

Glang,

LED's won't light when the output voltage goes higher than battery voltage. Being diodes they only allow current to flow in one direction. So if wired so they light when there is no output they will only light when output is below battery voltage by a large enough amount to start light emission.

Of course youre right. However I do like the way an incandescent bulb can be an early warning of charging system problems because starts to glow when theres an output/load discrepancy and I wonder if an LED would be as useful...

Otherwise as Rob said I think an LED will be ok for a dynamo but not alternator which of course is much more common these days and the reason why suppliers tend to recommend against using them for ignition warning lights.

 

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Unfortunately the ignition light going out doesnt necessarily mean all is well because when you look at the voltage regulator diagram the bulb is just connected to the output of the dynamo not the outgoing terminal. This means that the dynamo can be functioning perfectly with the regulator controlling the voltage correctly but theres another contact inside (cut out contact) which has to close before the output connects to the cars electrics. If this contact fails to make the ignition light is out but youre using the battery alone to power the car.

However I dont think thats the case here as the battery would go flat pretty quickly and the car stop while driving. More likely is that the battery charge wire is broken or disconnected somewhere so the regulator gives an output and powers all the electrics to allow driving but the battery wont be topped up.

This is why I earlier suggested testing the battery voltage before starting and then after - if the second reading is eventually higher it confirms the charging circuit is working. 

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