GT6 Bonnet and door adjustment

[Dan16v]

Evening all

I’m wondering if anyone could help with my alignment issues.  Recently fitting a bonnet gas strut kit has highlighted that the door to bonnet gap is tight on one side and wide on the other.  Is there a general guide on how to do this, e.g start with the bonnet and work backwards with the doors?

If I start with the bonnet, does the scuttle to bonnet gap look correct?  It’s fairly even all the way around.  The bonnet sits nicely on one side, but looks to be at a funny angle on the other and tilts towards the front of the car – after taking the overrides off do I just undo the nuts on that one side and lift it up a tad to get it level or is it not that easy?  It’s quite possible it’s had a sill put on extremely badly on that side as can be seen by all the filler and it tucks under a bit too much.

[Dan16v]

The driver’s door has a gap at the back like this and tight at the front with the bonnet

[Dan16v]

The passenger door is terrible, the gap at the front looks ok, but the gap at the bottom and rear looks horrible, you can get your fingers underneath it – can the door be shimmed back in on one hinge to move the bottom in and move it forward so it doesn’t catch on the rear bottom edge?

[Dan16v]

passenger door again

[stevegt6]

There is typically a lot of play to be had with the doors, pretty much in all directions - But, like you say, if it's had cills or door skin and not fitted quite right etc, it will be best fit....Unless you want to repaint

Not that familiar with the earlier bonnet hinges, I have mk3 GT6, and does have a fair bit of tolerance.

You will certainly have easier job with another pair of hands.

Not much help I know...
S

[Dan16v]

Quoted from stevegt6

There is typically a lot of play to be had with the doors, pretty much in all directions - But, like you say, if it's had cills or door skin and not fitted quite right etc, it will be best fit....Unless you want to repaint

Not that familiar with the earlier bonnet hinges, I have mk3 GT6, and does have a fair bit of tolerance.

You will certainly have easier job with another pair of hands.

Not much help I know...
S

well at some point some of the paint will need redoing as the filler is quite thick and has cracked.  Maybe I just need to get some bits of wood and some jacks and start playing with the door adjustment

[Dan16v]

Before I start playing around with the hinge adjustment, does anyone have a good guide as to where to start and which bits best to adjust first e.g. if I need the bonnet to move back 5-10mm etc.  Pic of my bonnet hinge for reference

[byakk0]

you just have to play with it. The top is up/down adjustment for the front of the bonnet.
The middle is forward/back adjustment.
The bottom is just tighten and keep it all in place.

Don't forget about the bonnet cones by the latches. They adjust the rear of the bonnet up and down. Also, loosen the little 'cups' the bonnet cones rest in. Tighten those up once you have it in the position you like.

Interesting bit though, that rubber bumper. First I've seen of that. Anyone know if that is stock? It gets covered by the over-rider, so is it even necessary?

[Dan16v]

Quoted from byakk0

you just have to play with it. The top is up/down adjustment for the front of the bonnet.
The middle is forward/back adjustment.
The bottom is just tighten and keep it all in place.

Don't forget about the bonnet cones by the latches. They adjust the rear of the bonnet up and down. Also, loosen the little 'cups' the bonnet cones rest in. Tighten those up once you have it in the position you like.

Interesting bit though, that rubber bumper. First I've seen of that. Anyone know if that is stock? It gets covered by the over-rider, so is it even necessary?

thanks, that gives me a good starting point, will start to see if I can get it to fit a bit better.

I think the back of the overider sits up against the rubber donut

[GT6 M]

T,git it to fit perfect is a near on impossibilty if diff things been replaced at some times
with oot extreeme care tek,n to see that everything else whas spot on befoer the diff bits were put on

a wee bit oot here there, will affect bits else where as ye finding oot.

first I would  tek the door seals off,  look at the door gaps all round, see where door needs to sit tobe best,
there are up / doon, in an oot, forads an bakwards adjustments on door its self.
try and get this spot on,  If it touches on the screen pillars, ok, move the glass frame back a bit.

then with the door seals still  off, this is so the door has no resistance to no being shut correctly,
when thee,s off, adjust the door t,git best possible fit.
Look carefully at the gap around the door frame, t,se that the gaps are even,ish all round between door /glass , and the frame,
if it aint, then the frame lips can be bent slightly wid an adjustable spanner to move them a wee bit.
If door glass bit is off in just a few spots, then same here
If after this, the glass will no sit right, then need to adjust glass runners on the door for in / oot movement.
the door glass bit can also go bak,n forads too.
its a time consuuming job, but it pays off.

Noo onto bonnet, need to first off, try,n get the height right,
this is easier sait than done, as there are alot of bits to match up.
Butt, if it comes to it, forget aboot the bonnet to sill line, as the door to bonnet line iis most obvious.
the sill line can be sorted for align ment to bonnet by adding filler to sill top, and then touchin up afterwards,

then slacken off all bonnet cone area bits, so they can move freely.
if ye no slacken thee,s off, then adjusting front end for for/aft movement will no be v effective.

It may also be needed to elongate the front adjusting holes,
both for up / doon ,  forads / aft movement too.


wen the slackened off, adjust bonnet at front for fit at the the door end.
NOTE, the cones will have a bigg effect  on the in /oot sitting of the bonnet.
if set too outwards  then bonnet will touch on the edges of the sreen surround,
IF, bonnet is set to far back to get gaps to doors right, as seen by the sloping gap in a pic,
BUTT, this can also be due to door no being reet too, one effects the other.

to remedy this, cones need to be set so bonnet sides go oot wards, { cones go inwards on bonnet }
this will also pull the middle oft bonnet doon onto scuttle to get a better fit, Ohh, tek the scuttle seal off when adjusting
it alters things alott.,plus there nee need forit either.

The cones ye got will prob be next to useless for any thing barr a straight up doon fitting,
if they need to be under stress for sideways fitting, then ye need some better,ns made frae a hard plastic {screwdriver handle shaped int lathe,  wid a bolt going
right thru, or some ally ones, then they wont distort.}

then there is the bonnet latches, thee,s can be adjusted up / doon,  in / oot too,
If thee,s no adjusted reet, then bottom of bonnet will be either too farr oot, or too farr in,
resulting in a bad fit with doors looking along them.
t,get a good clamp, but no effecting the bonnet to door fit,
as if set too far in, then bonnet sides get pulled inwards,showing a  indent on bonnet side.

It is a long job, and to get it spot on, which maybe impossible on an olde car due to sagging a wee bit here n there,
Butt to get it absolutely spot on, then fillers  ont sill,  weld ont door,or bonnet ends needs to be done.

Ohhh, and them weshers ye got int front adjusters nee good, see hoo they denting inwards,
need some thicker or stiffer ones. been there found it oot.

pic of modded bonnet cone, extra strips of steel to give strength catch area,
note too, there bonnet back edge has been modded too to get a perfect fit. {on a new BL bonnet too,}
its the only way at times.



get it right, then its a


M