JohnD Posted March 16 Share Posted March 16 Re: on board GPS. I was helping in Rally HQ at the Malcolm.Wilson Rally, where for the first time they were using SportTRAXX car monitoring. This uses on board GPS to locate the cars, and mobile cooms to transmit thatbto HQ. Ralies are often in hilly country or where mobile coverage isn't good. The system.was wholly different (and better) than the old ways, but it was amusing to.see cars stop and then move at light speed to the next area where the system could catch up with their progress. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 (edited) Well, it will look much like this It's only 1L swirlpot but i wish enough for long curves left with nearly empty tank. - Short of 8mm fuel hose to connect as i want - low pressure pump will be attached or on silentblocs - and this pre filter wont last long, searching an aluminium larger prefilter, but interstingly, there's air inside... that's an issue... - at the very least, i'll try to adapt the PI wood floor if i can. Edited March 18 by frenchiemk2 wrong add file Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 18 Share Posted March 18 Here's mine: In a Vitesse, the tank sits in the wheelwell. The Facet keeps the swirlpot full, and that feeds the Main pump. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted March 18 Author Share Posted March 18 Nice setup. You still have a metering unit like Pi's? And got the correct pressure? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 Yes, and yes ! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 Before i put a 12v sensor and 10 bar pressure gauge, reusing the former gauge. (Indicates around 7bar as oscillating btw 6-8. I wish i could have a better stabilized reading) Link to T union provider in France Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 Still not a proper filter yet. But this is nearly the end of adjustments. Have to create a custom cap on top of this... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted March 19 Share Posted March 19 3 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said: Before i put a 12v sensor and 10 bar pressure gauge, reusing the former gauge. (Indicates around 7bar as oscillating btw 6-8. I wish i could have a better stabilized reading) Link to T union provider in France frenchie the pressure does oscillate. I made a pressure gauge from a spare oil pressure gauge, and it oscillated so much it oscillated the needle off the stem! You need a damper. The best gauges are oil filled to do this, but I did it by inserting in the connector a copper disc with a tiny hole in the middle of it. I drilled from both sides until I could JUST see a tiny chink of light though the hole. John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted March 19 Author Share Posted March 19 16 minutes ago, JohnD said: frenchie the pressure does oscillate. I made a pressure gauge from a spare oil pressure gauge, and it oscillated so much it oscillated the needle off the stem! You need a damper. The best gauges are oil filled to do this, but I did it by inserting in the connector a copper disc with a tiny hole in the middle of it. I drilled from both sides until I could JUST see a tiny chink of light though the hole. John True, oil filled ones are easier to read. I asked myself about digital ones. Some have an outer bars for 1st reading and a digital number as 2nd reading. Maybe it's an average pressure i don't know. This one is cheap re-use. Oscillating only in between 1 bar... so not the worst. The oil filled ones i know are bigger and may not fit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted April 1 Author Share Posted April 1 On 07/01/2024 at 20:01, frenchiemk2 said: Well... end of year was deceiving. I went to a small garage nearby in which i know the owner for long to make oil changes on box and rear train + front engine mounts.. On the way to the garage, in a roundabout (we take them turn left here ) the car started to rattle a bit. At the garage we could do the job but the car seemed to turn on 5 cyl or whatever wrong. At a moment we did not have any ignition because the ignitor disengaged from the insert (just like it's notenough engaged in) and that clamp seemed faulty and sure the bolt thread was defective, that made the ignitor rotate... even with a new bolt it's not tightened enough. Did anyone enconutered this before? A mistake by G was to touch the settings i did on the throttles 😕 I could reach back home but the engine ran worst eventhough i could help myself out by the side of the road. I thought it could be air or particles in the fuel system or valves setting gone wrong. Friday and saturday i have redone the fuel pump and filter Bosch in the trunk, checked all the injectors and they spray fine, checked valve adjustment again, just minor settings... at one moment i could set idle and get to 4500 RPM and then it failed again. What the hell is wrong... On the try to set the throttle back to an operant setting i noticed that 1st and 3rd throttle have a slight depression difference 1st inlet has more depression than the second and 5th has more than 6th (seems well balanced on 3rd-4th). As you imagine, i know no one in France able to check those or have them redone and in GB, takes veryyyy long + VAT and customs fees. Problem unsolved since : engine hiccups /idling/misfiring like For the record, the car ran great till i made a left turn at a roundabout... So it hapened all of a sudden. it's like you run on 3 cylinders on a 4 cylindres car. Can't get reving but the engine starts fine and idle till i don't accelerate. then running bad and can't reach 4000 rpm (depends on the advance and air valve ). What I did or check since : - new fuelpump 044 (seems to feed 7 bars) - new spark plugs and gapped : there's spark everywhere. - new lead cables - new cap and rotor arm - new coil (and tested with the older one) and new ballast - new tested electronic ignition module - Advance timing set 8 to 10 before TDC (advance adjuster on distributor works) - setting valves clearance again - setting throttles (small differences sometimes on left-right inlets on the same body) but average sounds good - all injectors spray (maybe i will check the amonut of fuel delivered to compare them) - M.U renewed and yesterday i cleaned the inlet filter. Rubber seal keeps depression on succion - new fuel + octane booster additive (in case the 10l fuel in tank was bad ) -The alternator is charging nice (new) but heating a bit. What i noticed is on cold start during the first 5 seconds the lambda indicates 14 and drops to 17 and no reading value (getting poor)... I want to ask for a compression tester to check cylinders/head/valves gaps... Any suggestion of that sudden problem caused by? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted April 3 Author Share Posted April 3 I found today that 2 injectors don't open or don't spray correctly. Try to clean them ultrasonic bath thing i will be borrowed. Found a pair of new ones 1 hour drive from home. Think it's gonna make it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted April 21 Author Share Posted April 21 Fuel pressure at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted April 27 Author Share Posted April 27 Diaphragm issue... fuel leak Ordered at Rimmer Bros for faster shipping. OMG will she run one day 🙄 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted May 2 Author Share Posted May 2 Ok. I have replaced the M.U central diaphragm after i cleaned the complete unit. Still no change, always that bad running sound like a misfiring but it's not the case and i still can't eliminate a M.U problem. My lambda gauge says it's still lean ( from 13 to unreadable ). When i pull the air hose off of the M.U, the engine runs a little better. When i take off the upper rear conic cap of the M.U, the engine runs correctly around 13 at idle and 14 at revs. Shall it be the vacum diaphragm eventhough i did not spot a crack or hole? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted May 3 Author Share Posted May 3 Well, pushed myself in order to spot the problem(s) and or find solutions. I rest the PRV at the exact request 106-110 before cranking. I checked ignition and it's good on all sparks (cleaned and gaped BP6ES) Surprisingly, the advance setting was wrong whereas i did it a few weeks ago! In the french roadbook, the yiming is supposedly set at 7 BTDC, but when i checked with vacuum gauge, i had less than 5 Hg. In order to get a better vacuum, i had to increase the timing up to close 18° and got 12-13Hg but not stable. This timing is very high for a supposed standard car! Also what i detected is a difference at admission throttles : - Throttle left (c6-c5) even, - throttle center (c4-c3) left is weaker than right - throttle right (c2-c1) left is weaker than right - c6, c5, c3, c1 are even so the admission is a bit unbalanced. Where's the problem and how to fix it? Thanks for your comments and advise. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 I bought an old gasket to see if it's better. What i realized is on the header above cyl 6-5 seemed like a leak or burnt old gasket. Maybe machining needed. I don't know Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted June 1 Author Share Posted June 1 By the time, trying to finish front grill, exhaust and stag style spoiler. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 Today putting new springs from CW and mounted NOS Koni sports at rear. Plus putting longer wheel studs to fit those Delta mics better (were 6-7 mm short) Saturday with older son we installed the rear inox line and muffler (central was already installed last summer) Sounds nice. Next to do is front koni and springs plus longer wheel studs (if I'm right, the rear one will fit in front). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shenderson Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 On 03/05/2024 at 15:58, frenchiemk2 said: In the french roadbook, the yiming is supposedly set at 7 BTDC, but when i checked with vacuum gauge, i had less than 5 Hg. In order to get a better vacuum, i had to increase the timing up to close 18° and got 12-13Hg but not stable. This timing is very high for a supposed standard car! Hi. Note that the crankshaft pulley is also a torsional vibration damper, and there is a rubber section between the hub of the pulley and the outer ring where the timing marks are located. With age, the bond between the rubber and steel parts breaks down, allowing the outer ring to move relative to the hub. If this happens, the timing marks will no longer be accurate. Worth checking the marks with pistons 1 and 6 at TDC. If the marks have moved, you will probably need to replace the pulley. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD Posted June 3 Share Posted June 3 Shenderson is absolutely right! Possibly alone in the UK, certainly alone in Triumph, I can test six cylinder crank dampers, to assess if they still have damping capacity. After all, the rubber in them was about the same compound as tyre rubber, and the life of a tyre is no more than ten years. I'm glad to accept pulleys to test! But if the outer ("inertia") ring has moved on the hub, then clearly the rubber has lost any adhesion, and cannot act as a damper at all! You would need a new one, but be aware that 2L and 2.5L damper pulleys are rather different! John 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 4 hours ago, JohnD said: Shenderson is absolutely right! Possibly alone in the UK, certainly alone in Triumph, I can test six cylinder crank dampers, to assess if they still have damping capacity. After all, the rubber in them was about the same compound as tyre rubber, and the life of a tyre is no more than ten years. I'm glad to accept pulleys to test! But if the outer ("inertia") ring has moved on the hub, then clearly the rubber has lost any adhesion, and cannot act as a damper at all! You would need a new one, but be aware that 2L and 2.5L damper pulleys are rather different! John 7 hours ago, shenderson said: Hi. Note that the crankshaft pulley is also a torsional vibration damper, and there is a rubber section between the hub of the pulley and the outer ring where the timing marks are located. With age, the bond between the rubber and steel parts breaks down, allowing the outer ring to move relative to the hub. If this happens, the timing marks will no longer be accurate. Worth checking the marks with pistons 1 and 6 at TDC. If the marks have moved, you will probably need to replace the pulley. Thanks both of you. I'll check that tomorrow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted June 3 Author Share Posted June 3 Long day. Rear Koni struts and CW springs done Front Koni struts an CW springs done Rear and front longer wheel hub studs done 2 last Bosch injectors mounted. (6 new now). Muffler adjusted. Test ride tomorrow after i check the damper pulley (setting 0 at tdc)... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted June 4 Author Share Posted June 4 13 hours ago, frenchiemk2 said: Thanks both of you. I'll check that tomorrow. Seems correct at 1 degree close (i don't have a special gauge tool) in static. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 8 Author Share Posted July 8 I tried TC look for front grill. Not that much convinced... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchiemk2 Posted July 13 Author Share Posted July 13 On 03/06/2024 at 13:01, shenderson said: Hi. Note that the crankshaft pulley is also a torsional vibration damper, and there is a rubber section between the hub of the pulley and the outer ring where the timing marks are located. With age, the bond between the rubber and steel parts breaks down, allowing the outer ring to move relative to the hub. If this happens, the timing marks will no longer be accurate. Worth checking the marks with pistons 1 and 6 at TDC. If the marks have moved, you will probably need to replace the pulley. Few days ago i checked the timing and reset it to approx 8btdc. What i saw is my marking moving under strob gun like if it balanced + - 2 degrees off of the marking. Didn't notice that before. Could it be the damper pulley being damaged? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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