Nick Moore Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 bxbodger wrote:But to what end? There's nothing wrong with the voriginal design, provided it's maintained properly and in good condition. Snapped trunnion syndrome is an age related thing, it comes from years of use and abuse and extended periods of total neglect, and there isn't a car of 45 years old that won't have been kerbed and potholed at least several times by now, it's not something that was a common occurence when the cars were current and in everyday use, and it didn't send the many competition cars that used the same set up flying into the bales on every corner.Surely the best option if there's any doubt about them would be to replace them and then maintain them, after al,l I don't suppose anyone foresaw the things still being in use 40 odd yearts down the line! Playing Devil's advocate... I believe that a lot of Triumphs today have wider wheels than Triumph intended, with modern, grippier tyres. And many of us are 'enthusiastic' drivers... That means that the uprights are under greater stress than when the cars were new. Broken uprights were a problem with wider wheels in New Zealand in the Seventies - an old friend who was a Warrant of Fitness tester back then told me that when they saw a small Triumph with wide wheels, they would insist that the uprights be crack tested.Cheers,One of the Nicks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 I doubt any vertical links snap without a stress concentration point due to corrosion being present. Only needs to be microscopic but look at how much is present on some of the pictures that have been posted.As Nick said, grippier tyres with more resistance to distortion than the small section, bias ply ones that this suspension was originally designed for (pre-radial) and the steering design that cannot be made to comply with Akerman requirements throws a lot of load on the links.(Drive your car on full lock, park and have a look at the way the front tyres are sitting, trying to fight each.)See how many of the failures occur at low speed whilst turning.The design of the link (change of diameter rather abruptly) in the fail area already is tending to localise loading to this area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Back 20 years ago when playing with VW based off roaders we used to hammer a rod through the centre of, I think, the left hand front stub axle. This was hollow as the speedo cable went through it. Got this from the Yanks who had breakages doing similar things.Just a thought.I'd personally still go trunionless with the Triumphs though.Dave Pearson hasn't reported any problems as far as I know.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogie Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 The effect of insert a rod into the hole/bore through the vertical link or stub axle would depend on the diameter of the hole/bore. As it is very close to the centralo axis it may have no effect at all. What material would you use!!Roger Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 The trunionless kit is both sides and expensive, you can get the parts individualy via spherical joint outlets and Caterham for the uprights but the housing for the rose joint is the bespoke item that you cant buy.If you only want a standard upright, (which WILL do the job) you can use the existing trunion depending on condition, and buy and upright at your convienience. Your pocket size makes your decision. Totaly agree with the use of bigger grippier tyres causing faliure with old uprights , new uprights will be fine and the rod or bolt up the hole will make no difference at all.This original design of trunnions/uprights was used on Grand Prix cars at warp speeds and extreme stresses back in the day and never failed, it was the stub axles that bent/snapped first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 I smear vasaline around the seal ......oooeer ...dont tell the RSPCA....in my head it helps the seal keep the water off the thread? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 I shall also be using Moly this time around Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 A couple of these;http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=142plus a couple of these;http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=110and your already over 320 quid, and you haven't even got the special carriers, circlips, or any spacers, nuts and bolts that come with the kit.I dont think the kit is expensive, perhaps its time to put it up now though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 school boy question is the trunnion less kit avalible for the TR6? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 We got most of the way there, and then did a bit of market research with the usual TR trade customers of ours.Based on that we put it on the back burner, and there it stayed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shedmonkey Posted May 22, 2013 Author Share Posted May 22, 2013 I am sure the Scimitar boys would have a few off you?! :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 22, 2013 Share Posted May 22, 2013 Slimboyfat wrote:A couple of these;http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=142plus a couple of these;http://www.caterhamparts.co.uk/product.php?id_product=110and your already over 320 quid, and you haven't even got the special carriers, circlips, or any spacers, nuts and bolts that come with the kit.I dont think the kit is expensive, perhaps its time to put it up now though.Fair enough, last time i looked the uprights were cheaper than that and the bearings were about 15 quid from a specialist bearing supplier.It would be nice to see all the bits for the trunionless kit available to buy seperatly from Canleys tho Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 uksnatcher wrote:It would be nice to see all the bits for the trunionless kit available to buy seperatly from Canleys thoThey always have been. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slimboyfat Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 ajp wrote:I am sure the Scimitar boys would have a few off you?! :)Yes we did get a few enquirees from Scimitar owners. I was never convinced the need for the conversion was as great on the TRs as it was for the small chassis cars. I have never had an issue with link failure on my TRs, and I dont ever recall repairing a punters TR with a failure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 If you get the tail out far enough on corners there would be less lock so removes the loading on the links due to the steering geometry problems.Go! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greeks Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 AJP's a bit old for that malarky! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
uksnatcher Posted May 23, 2013 Share Posted May 23, 2013 Slimboyfat wrote:They always have been.Sorry Dave, i honestly didnt know that.... :BLast time i looked you didnt supply the bearing carrier....http://www.canleyclassics.com/searchforapart/?desc=TRUNNIONLESS+&ptno=Nice one..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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