Dropping the engine/gearbox

[JimEB]

Hi!

At long last, I've got some time this weekend to drop the engine/gearbox and get it all fettled ready for the RBRR in October... I'm going to be lowering as one, so could I get away with removing just the gear knob and not the whole gearstick assembly?

Are there any hints/tips for getting the gear knob or gear stick off? I can sense that this might be one of those seemingly easy tasks that ends up taking loads of time if you don't know exactly how! 🤔

I think the rest of the engine drop ought to be relatively straightforward. I'll read the works manual tonight... 🙂

Also, does anyone have a heavy duty dolly that I could borrow, please? Localish to Winchester would be great.

Finally, I might need a helping hand, so if anyone is at a loose end... 😀 (my RBRR co-driver is indisposed)

[thescrapman]

Jim

It only takes a few minutes to remove the whole gearstick

Surround off, or pulled up.

4 screws hold down the rubber gaiter

Loosen the 2 screws each side and rotate the cap. Or remove 2 screws and lift up cap. Sure I have had both scenarios

Cheers

Colin

[JimEB]

Cheers Colin 🙂 Flicked through a parts catalogue last night and familiarised myself with the various bits you mentioned.

Now have:

- beefy trolley jack
- helping pair of hands
- decent weather forecast

Question: do I need to cap off the fuel line as I disconnect it from the metering unit or will the pump at the back effectively prevent the fuel tank from draining? 🤔

[Nick Jones]

I'd assume you need to cap it or at least raise it above the tank fuel level

Nick

[josh18]

Hi Jim, I have my engine out at the moment. For the fuel line I just used one of those hose clamp plier things on the rubber hose coming from the fuel tank. Some fuel drained out of the fuel line at the engine end but no more.
Cheers

[JimEB]

Hi all,

Well, that was a busy day... The engine and gearbox are out, whilst I and my gallant mate are thoroughly knackered...

After all my fretting, the gearstick was actually really easy to extract, although someone had obviously been there before and the little anti-rattle spring and plunger are long gone whilst the gaiter is split (although I note that CW is having these remade).

Getting the clutch slave cylinder bracket off the engine back plate was a pain, since someone had reversed one of the fixings (I’m guessing during a clutch change) and we ended up having to take the sump pan off to get the bolt out!  

The fuel issue was solved by thrashing the car to quickly drop the tank level and then I used a bit of 1/2" hose on the end of the fuel line to effectively raise the level of the outlet - it worked!

If anyone out there is contemplating similar major surgery on their Big Six, I recommend three essential bits of kit:

- Heavy duty, high lift trolley jack: much better than faffing around with a small jack and wooden blocks! I had previously procured via eBay some seriously beefy axle stands, so felt really safe working under the car.

- Cordless impact wrench: probably the best money I’ve ever spent on garage kit. It made the job SO much easier than using hand ratchets. Of course, on reassembly, I’ll use a torque wrench to properly check fixings 🙂

- Thick foam mat: made scrabbling under the car comfortable and I ache less today than I'd expected to!

Thank you all for your advice 😉