CharlieB Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 I've just ordered a gearbox rebuild kit from Canleys for my single rail overdrive box which includes 4 new synchro rings. I've read the new synchro rings are not of the best quality, is this true? Should I still replace them all as a matter of course? How do I recognise an original?The reason for the rebuild is the usual 2nd gear synchro problem. One spring in the 1st/2nd synchro hub is broken but the synchro rings don't look particularly worn to my untrained eye. Is this enough to cause the problem? Any advice & general tips on rebuilding these boxes would be great.Having nearly done my back in removing the box I fancy an alloy bellhousing but Canleys can't supply them at the moment. Is it possible to fit a 3 rail one & stop it leaking oil from the selector shaft hole?Charlie Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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Deleted User Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted April 3, 2007 Share Posted April 3, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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CharlieB Posted April 17, 2007 Author Share Posted April 17, 2007 I've completed my gearbox rebuild, slowed down as I didn't order all the parts in one go. You do have to watch those new synchro rings 2 out of 4 were no good! Supplier took them back no problem & I re-used 2 good ones out of my box.I've modified an alloy bell housing as per Dave's suggestion. I love the fact I can lift it with one finger!Let's see if it lasts ok Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
popeye Posted June 8, 2007 Share Posted June 8, 2007 Hello everybody !! I am new here and I am an overseas owner.Congratulations CharlieB: you have done a really good job ! it looks great and and very well made.As I have the same project as yours: to convert a three rail bellhousing for my single rail gearbox, may you explain to me how have you done to built the "extra part" ?many thanks by advance. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted June 9, 2007 Author Share Posted June 9, 2007 I built it up with epoxy putty & sanded it flat then drilled the hole (20mm I think) using the gasket as a template. The hole goes through the ally so you have to build up the inside with some epoxy too. Also there's a couple of ally casting bosses on the inside you have to grind off so they don't hit the larger 1500 clutch.To be honest it does weep a little oil, not enough to worry about but I'm keeping an eye on it.I've got it out of the car again at the moment as my gearbox rebuild was not a success, one of the new synchros has destroyed itself in a few hundred miles. I'm now putting the old ones back! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 [quote by=CharlieB link=Blah.pl?b=spit,m=1175599971,s=0 date=1175599971]I've just ordered a gearbox rebuild kit from Canleys for my single rail overdrive box which includes 4 new synchro rings. I've read the new synchro rings are not of the best quality, is this true? Should I still replace them all as a matter of course? How do I recognise an original?Charlie[/quote]I am very nervous about these kind of discussions on an open forum, and I'm sure I'm not alone ::)It's a bit disingenuous to open such topics when really such a subject should be directly with the supplier.Here's a little bit of experience from the past:-For years I maintained race gearboxes for Triumph cars and NEVER used anything else but original OEM parts.There's a problem of supply some 30 years after the car ceased production, then several people start giving free advice on a forum, which are more or less accurate, but without the obvious advantage of having built 100s of those units..Now, it turns out it can be seen as overt criticism of a supplier not to be able to supply a gearbox without having some risk of weak syncro.Let's just put it this way.I used to build these units with ALL brand new OEM syncro rings and the procedure was the following.Original rings are really sh...t quality.....reproduction ones may reproduce the same results......they stretch, they deform and they fail FROM new when in race conditions!It's a FACT.So this procedure was developed to try to keep one or 2 quite well known racers happy...the rebuilds were invariably FOC so it was FOR THE LOVE!1st build:- make run and test with each syncro matched visually to each gear.The gears were almost invariably BRAND NEW.Drive car, find the defective syncro (there will almost always be ONE)2nd build:- change defective syncro,- eg. 3rd,- take another new one fit, rebuild, drive and check...if still defective,- rebuild the box yet again.....This was almost unfailing for removing faults, It must be remembered new sycros BED which second hand ones don't. So the chance is, if you re-use an old syncro from a different gear from a different position from a different box, it will wear out very fast, restretch and fail very quickly.This is hard experience and I'm not here as a supplier (who may have OEM parts btw), but trying to be scrupulously fair and appear independent.....If possible ! ::)GT ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharlieB Posted June 9, 2007 Author Share Posted June 9, 2007 I probably should not have named the supplier in my original post (back in april) since I imagine all the synchro rings come from the same source. Also I was given a full refund on the two obviously faulty synchros.I will not comment further untill I have tested the box with the original synchros back in their original positions (assuming the original fault was due to the broken spring & not the synchros at all)Any advice you can give GT on rebuilding this box would be welcome. I've set the synchro hub tensions to the top of the range quoted in the manual (one shim required under each spring in the 1st/2nd hub) & checked all the end floats. There were no springs behind the laygear thrust washer & I'm not fitting any, the endfloat was near the bottom limit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 aiiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeenever fit shims under springs, the tension comes from the hub clearances, not that way.If you insist on doing it yourself, bear in mind Triumph only ever made std size shims for the laygear.They made tighter clearances by using an arc welder and putting some clag sparks on the back of the thrusts....professional eh? ;D ;DThe big tricks are mostly in the materialshubs, mainshaft, thrust faces-pinned, second gear, gear support collars etc... all little bits that make it last .......then fully synth oil.I build stuff, watched some guy from the works some years back, and tried to do it a bit better, that's all.. ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 9, 2007 Share Posted June 9, 2007 post removed on request of author Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deleted User Posted June 10, 2007 Share Posted June 10, 2007 you may find a professional does a professional screw up ;D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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