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StagWeber conversion


Simon Slocombe

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Can you clarify what you mean by "reluctant"? Does it crank very slowly when hot? Churns over really fast but no sign of firing?

The former is probably a weak starter or a bad connection between it and the battery, or the engine earth strap. Heat makes things expand and a slightly-loose-but-not-a-problem connection could become a very poor contact on a hot engine.

The latter could be an over-rich mixture or a problem with fuel evaporation. You have a non-standard carb setup so excessive heat soak is plausible. Couple that with a worn fuel pump and you'll have lots of trouble with hot starts.

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Hi Rob, 

Thanks for your input. The engine turns over at good speed, hi-torque starter and new battery see to that. I too suspected fuel evaporation and re-routed fuel line etc. At the mot, two weeks ago, the tester.commented that emissions were at the lean end of the range and could possibly be richened up a little, hence the confusion. It also has had new plugs and leads and uses electronic ignition.

 

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Possibly the same problem as I had with the Holley I had fitted years ago. The fuel boils in the carb after switching off the engine. The fuel vapour is heavier than air and fills the inlet manifold driving out all the air.

This makes a super rich mixture that will never fire when hot.

Best cure I found was a readily accessible switch to the fuel pump. Switch the pump off about 15 seconds before switching off the engine so the level of the fuel in the float chambers is much lower and therefore there is less to boil away.

You can test this by pulling up the top on the inertia switch when the engine is hot and see if it helps.

My switch used to be on the dash where the choke knob used to be and was marked as a cooling fan to confuse potential thieves.

I have long since converted to efi so don't need the switch any more.

Neil

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

First eliminate ignition problems as the cause.

Second, if you have a non-standard type fuel pump, then check the fuel pressure. Normal is 2.7 psi.  If it is much more than that it could be the cuase of hot starting problems.

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  • 8 months later...
  • 3 years later...

Ian first of all try just an inline fuel filter because dirt getting to the carbs can cause them to malfunction and give hot starting problems.

I am very sceptical that the pressure regulators available work to zero flow (this is difficult to acheive without recirculating fuel back to the tank) so that they wont help with any carb problem before the engine has actually started....

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Yes a Filter King is a great bit of kit for controlling the pressure from an electric pump to ensure there is sufficient fuel flow whatever the demand. However people think they are the solution for cases where the carb float valves leak when fully closed and as I say this is almost impossible to do without a recirc line back to the tank. This could be confirmed using a pressure gauge in the supply line while running the pump with engine stopped...

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38 minutes ago, glang said:

Yes a Filter King is a great bit of kit for controlling the pressure from an electric pump to ensure there is sufficient fuel flow whatever the demand. However people think they are the solution for cases where the carb float valves leak when fully closed and as I say this is almost impossible to do without a recirc line back to the tank. This could be confirmed using a pressure gauge in the supply line while running the pump with engine stopped...

If a carburettor is set up properly and in good order it shouldn't leak. Too much fuel pressure will overcome the floats resistance and cause it to leak, hence a fuel reg being an essential part in the fuel delivery system. If the pressure is right and it still leaks you need to look at the set up and condition of the carb's internals. I think the myth around the fuel reg stems because to many installing a pressure reg seems easier and less risky than fiddling with the dark arts of a carbertooter... 

 

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I just dont think a simple regulator can limit pressure when theres no flow. Its very difficult to do and thats confirmed online, in fact even Malpassi only talk about pressure regulation when theres fuel demand...

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No what I mean is its very difficult for a regulator valve like a Filter King to close fully and keep the pressure on the outlet at say 2.5psi with a pump pressure of for example 7.5psi when the carb float valve is closed. Its only when fuel is flowing into the carb that the Filter King can regulate its opening to allow a pressure drop from inlet to outlet...

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7 hours ago, glang said:

No what I mean is its very difficult for a regulator valve like a Filter King to close fully and keep the pressure on the outlet at say 2.5psi with a pump pressure of for example 7.5psi when the carb float valve is closed. Its only when fuel is flowing into the carb that the Filter King can regulate its opening to allow a pressure drop from inlet to outlet...

Ah gotcha 👍🏻

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Yes fuel injection systems have a similar problem (although running at much higher pressures) where the pressure at the injectors must be kept stable even with the engine stopped and its achieved by returning the excess to the tank so there always a flow.

I would be interested to know if anyone has seen a Filter King or similar do the equivalent for carburettors but suspect not...  

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2 hours ago, glang said:

Yes fuel injection systems have a similar problem (although running at much higher pressures) where the pressure at the injectors must be kept stable even with the engine stopped and its achieved by returning the excess to the tank so there always a flow.

I would be interested to know if anyone has seen a Filter King or similar do the equivalent for carburettors but suspect not...  

no it doesn't but I run a Mocal non return valve in the fuel lines just before the carbs which works a treat...

IMG_1956.jpeg

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