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Martins Stag

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This winter I will have to take my diff out as it is whining. On talking to Richard Brake he suggested taking all the rear suspension off in one piece which sounds a lot of work. I'm not doubting Richard but what do other people think. On my Spitfire it wasn't to bad a job to drop it out on the Stag it seems more of a challenge?


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Easiest is to just drop the diff off the nose extension - four bolts, and the two at the back. It saves undoing the propshaft, brakes etc. I can do mine in about an hour now.

You need to support the rear of the car on axle stands under the outer subframe mountings so that the whole subframe can tilt down.

The right hand exhaust rear pipe has to come off, that usually takes longer than the diff change.

Talk to Marcus in Maryport for your replacement diff.


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Ok, but he didn't say that.

I changed the bearing in mine with the rear suspension in situ. It's not difficult, just undo the propshaft before you take the diff out, undo the nut on the drive flange and then take the diff out. You can then take the shaft out, release the circlip holding the bearing and knock it out backwards.
Refitting is just the reverse.
I made it a bit easier by making a tool to fit the splined end of the quill shaft so that I can undo the drive flange without a diff fitted.


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Changing the diff extension bearing in situ depends entirely on how tight the bearing in the tube. I have done the job twice on two different extensions. The first one tapped in and out with a drift. The most recent required a 20t press to shift the old bearing and a vice and sockets to fit the replacement bearing.


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If you have the space and the required stuff, it is relatively easy to drop the whole suspension unit by sliding a pallet and a pallet trolley underneath.  Put car on axle stands placed at rear of sills, raise pallet, undo bolts and brake lines, lower and roll it away.


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So I am used to a Spitfire diff that comes out in one piece none of this fangled two part diff in the Stag. The actual reason is that the diff is rumbling is the reason why I was going to take it out. So if this is the case I can get away with just the diff and leave the front housing in place?
Saying that I bet I get it out and I'll get it out and see the front oil seal housing needs replacing!

Thanks for all the inputs


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  • 1 month later...

If the bolts are free and the area surrounding the pins is OK it's not *that* bad a job to take out the entire rear suspension and it can make life easier IME.  Accessing the driveshaft nuts for instance is easier with the whole lot off the car, especially if they are being a pain to remove.

To drop the rear subframe you need to the do the following from memory:

Remove the exhaust
Remove rear damper nuts at the bottom
Remove springs
Disconnect handbrake cables
Disconnect brake lines ; handy if you need to change the brake fluid anyway
Disconnect the prop
Remove 4 nuts securing the subframe assembly
Support and remove with a jack taking the weight of the subframe

The benefit of this is that you can also clean the lot and take the nosecone bearing out if it is being subborn.  That and if it were me I would strengthen the nosecone housing with plates just to make it a little more sturdy.

That said, I'd be tempted to try it Russel's way.

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