Martins Stag Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 This winter I will have to take my diff out as it is whining. On talking to Richard Brake he suggested taking all the rear suspension off in one piece which sounds a lot of work. I'm not doubting Richard but what do other people think. On my Spitfire it wasn't to bad a job to drop it out on the Stag it seems more of a challenge?Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Russell Posted July 21, 2016 Share Posted July 21, 2016 I've done it on my 2000s, last time was a couple of months ago and I noted a brief description on my blog.[Sorry, link no longer available]You don't need to drop all the rear suspension. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mole42 Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Easiest is to just drop the diff off the nose extension - four bolts, and the two at the back. It saves undoing the propshaft, brakes etc. I can do mine in about an hour now.You need to support the rear of the car on axle stands under the outer subframe mountings so that the whole subframe can tilt down.The right hand exhaust rear pipe has to come off, that usually takes longer than the diff change.Talk to Marcus in Maryport for your replacement diff.Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 But... I think Martin needs to change the bearing in the nose-piece as the front oil seal is worn. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mole42 Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Ok, but he didn't say that.I changed the bearing in mine with the rear suspension in situ. It's not difficult, just undo the propshaft before you take the diff out, undo the nut on the drive flange and then take the diff out. You can then take the shaft out, release the circlip holding the bearing and knock it out backwards.Refitting is just the reverse.I made it a bit easier by making a tool to fit the splined end of the quill shaft so that I can undo the drive flange without a diff fitted.Richard Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 Changing the diff extension bearing in situ depends entirely on how tight the bearing in the tube. I have done the job twice on two different extensions. The first one tapped in and out with a drift. The most recent required a 20t press to shift the old bearing and a vice and sockets to fit the replacement bearing.Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StagNL Posted July 22, 2016 Share Posted July 22, 2016 If you have the space and the required stuff, it is relatively easy to drop the whole suspension unit by sliding a pallet and a pallet trolley underneath. Put car on axle stands placed at rear of sills, raise pallet, undo bolts and brake lines, lower and roll it away.Julian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mole42 Posted July 23, 2016 Share Posted July 23, 2016 "undo bolts and brake lines"One of the main reasons why I prefer to do a diff change with the suspension in situ. I really don't like bleeding brakes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mole42 Posted July 24, 2016 Share Posted July 24, 2016 The other thing is that to drop the rear suspension unit you need to take the exhaust off, whereas to change the diff you only need remove the pipe that runs behind it. Much easier! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Martins Stag Posted July 25, 2016 Author Share Posted July 25, 2016 So I am used to a Spitfire diff that comes out in one piece none of this fangled two part diff in the Stag. The actual reason is that the diff is rumbling is the reason why I was going to take it out. So if this is the case I can get away with just the diff and leave the front housing in place?Saying that I bet I get it out and I'll get it out and see the front oil seal housing needs replacing!Thanks for all the inputsMartin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CharliesStag Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 If the bolts are free and the area surrounding the pins is OK it's not *that* bad a job to take out the entire rear suspension and it can make life easier IME. Accessing the driveshaft nuts for instance is easier with the whole lot off the car, especially if they are being a pain to remove.To drop the rear subframe you need to the do the following from memory:Remove the exhaustRemove rear damper nuts at the bottomRemove springsDisconnect handbrake cablesDisconnect brake lines ; handy if you need to change the brake fluid anywayDisconnect the propRemove 4 nuts securing the subframe assemblySupport and remove with a jack taking the weight of the subframeThe benefit of this is that you can also clean the lot and take the nosecone bearing out if it is being subborn. That and if it were me I would strengthen the nosecone housing with plates just to make it a little more sturdy.That said, I'd be tempted to try it Russel's way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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