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Tim Bancroft

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Philip,

Thanks for that, I'll prob. get a reinforced one from Chris W. in the near future. Got to ease up on the spending on the old cars at present.

BTW nice mk.1 PI for sale at Stoneleigh today, I saw it previously at the start of the Wessex Rally last June. Not sure if its a real PI or a rep. Still very nice apart from dodgy seats (What is it about mk.1 Pi's and dodgy seats in the UK). The car looks cool on dark grey 14'' steels. Was for sale at £2.5K- gotta be worth a look at that price. Be great if it came into the CT fold.

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oops, i guess that means my seats are dodgy then?!  i have very tasteful race seats in my 2000, which i'm obliged by law to have because of the fact i have a full cage in the car.  the law over here is that if you have a cage that goes forward of the driver then you must have a proper fixed race seat and a full harness.  putting 5 straps on just to go down to the corner dairy is a pain in the butt but that's life.  but at least they're black (not orange or blue) and they have a royal blue vinyl removable cushion, made up especially to suit, using high density foam, makes normally uncomfortable fibreglass seats very comfortable even for 8 hours plus a day.  so, with all that explanation, will you let me off?  as for price, that's not bad.  i find from reading Triumph World that you guys are generally getting higher prices for trumps in the uk than we get in nz.  we can for example get a very good 2500TC or S for $2500 to $3000, less than 1000 pounds.  a very sharp PI would nornmally cost around $5-6000, less than 2000 pounds.  there's a chap trying to sell a racing PI over here at the moment for $14,000 but i think he's dreaming.

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Hey Tim, in what way is the steering better? I considered the roller top mounts, but as i recall they were quite expensive.

I'm still not happy with the steering on mine, doesn't self centre enough for my liking. Bit more caster angle required. Easy way would be to space out the strut that goes into the chassis rail (whatever its called) but too much of that will take the wheel out of alignment with the arch, and that won't look good!

Why fuel injection? Unless its strapped to a nice Rover V8  ;D

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Roger,

Do remember that I am not a big saloon expert, however for the short distance I have driven the car since putting the struts on, it def. seemed to have more feel and smoother.

Your discription seems to suggest that you require more negative camber, however I am not sure if it is poss. to get neg. camber bottom arms? Hopefully Andy Pearce, Andy Thompson or Philip Blank can answer this? I know that the strurts were dear, however I will be keeping the car, so don't mind too much.

On my Gt6 I run about 1.5 degrees neg, this is fine- the car turns in much better, more does tend to make the braking unstable.

What rate of springs do you run on the front of the orange estate?

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I have changed the castor by spacing out the tie bar with a couple of wahers , I forget the original setting but I think I managed to increase it by about a degree. However this was an attempt to reduce understeer not improve self centering. As Roger says you can't go too far (especially with big wheels because)
1) it looks wrong
2)It wont fit in the arch
3) the inner end of the track control arm starts disagreeing with you... it would need a spherical type rose joint (that I think Monarch Triumph once offered together with adjustable length)

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Ohh no, i don't need more negative camber. Got good tyre wear and NO understeer to speak of. Its about 1 degree or so if my memory serves me.

Caster is what i need but as Andy says he achieved it on the tie bar. One degree gain will translate to approx 8-10mm at the tie bar. Andy, can you confirm this? This is still leaves you with little negative camber releative to a lot of modern cars.

What we really need is an adjustable top mount! Did this on an astra once. Gives you adjustable camber AND caster. Sadly i think the front spring diameter means there is not likely to be much adjustment. Coilovers anyone??

I fully intend to resolve this one day, but sadly got a big american car to finish first!

Back to steering, i suspect the lack of understeer is probably more down to the loss of 110 lbs of weight from over the front axle than any suspension alignment and the fact there is more rear end weight as its an estate. It is actually quite a well balanced car, not deliberately i hasten to add!

This lack of weight had an effect on my front springs. When i fitted the engine, nothing happened to the front suspension. Didn't compress!!! Thought i'd left a jack underneath it! In the end i was forced to shorten the stock springs. In fact i had to take so much off that when it is jacked up you can just turn the springs in situ on the strut. And its still quite firm. Originally ran stock dampers but they didn't feel right, so went to Chris Witors uprated ones, but to be honest these were a bit firm in this setup, so fitted Koni adjustables. Quite pleased with it now though.

How did we get here from diffs???

If you ever want to give a it drive Tim, let me know. We'll have you fitting a V8 next!!!

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Roger,

I'd love to have a go in her- Andy E. is a massive advocate of the car (When is he gonna finish the V8 Sprint?), however could not see me fitting a V8 to my car as there seems to be so few real PI's left (Alright I know mine has Su's- it will have injection one day)and because I just love the straight six engine.
On this subject I was talking to Roger Baldwinson who bought a 2000 mk.2 off e-bay last Oct which had a Montego diesel engine fitted! Sold the diesel lump and has put aV8 Rover lump in her- raving about the car, says it is superb. He has promised me a trip out in it at the next West Kent meeting. I think Roger B has fitted Witor struts, though not sure what springs he has gone for.
So many of these cars being converted to V8. Can see the point as these cars are so strong and if the old six pot is past it sell by date why not, however rather the six pot.

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having just lost my last message after typing the whole damn thing, this will be shorter, but andy's comments about not going too far with packing out the radius rod is right, you need a rose jointed lower arm to push it out.  that does seem to be the easiest way to get castor and camber and i'll personally be getting that done this year.  too hard to put an adjustable plate at the top of the strut as the tower is just too small to accept off teh shelf parts.  there are a number of places over here that will make adjustable, bespoke lower arms, so that's the next task (once engine back in).

tim, you asked for a pic or 2.  i posted one recently on one of the chat boards, but i'll see if i can post one here - i'll go for a different pic.  cheers, phil.

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That is a nice MK1. Starting to make me wish I'd bought that MK1 2000 with PI running gear that was for sale at Stoneleigh on Sunday. It was down to £2200 by the time we were looking at it - Dave had to tell me to walk away from it in the end, he knows I'm trying (although not very hard) to reduce my fleet at the moment.

Looks like it's sold now, as the chap had it up on eBay before the show

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4523928397


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  • 2 weeks later...

[quote by=timbancroft61 link=Blah.pl?b=2000,v=display,m=1107019009,s=38 date=1108823397]Blimey, 'The Glorious Grey Thing' is back on the road!

What a car![/quote]

Marvellous - the car was almost getting as elusive as Jason's Sixfire !!! :o

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It was not for me, everytime I walked out of the flat I was getting confronted by it sitting under its car cover, played on my conscience.
Just been out in it, gave it some stick around a series of corners I know, superb, minor roll, lots of feedback from the wheel to tell me where the wheels were pointing. All in all very impressed. I will probably be hung drawn and quartered, but the handling reminds me of my Mondeo, except not as much understeer. Although dropped a bit, the ride is nicely complient, no bump steer- just right. In fact the best thing I can say is the car has seemed to have shrunk and seems very easy to place.
Wonder what she will be like on the limit, sudden transfrmation from understeer into oversteer, or nicely progressive?

10CR: Stelvio-should be good!

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Never really had any nasty handling characteristics in a 2000/2.5.. something to do with the long wheelbase and slight tendency to understeer, the only real issue can be uneven traction out of tight wet corners without a limited slip diff... this is more annoying than dangerous but be careful as if you grip suddenly when sliding about it can get a bit twitchy... Stiff rear springs help a lot as they keep the wheels more upright than the original soggy ones...
 

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Andy,

You may have noticed a thread on the TR7 section about short springs on the struts of martin R's TR7.
On the rear of my mk.1 I have fitted 410lb springs from Chris W.
What method can be used to prevent the spring droping out or not going back into position when the trailing arm is at full droop?

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There are two easy ways,

1. Fit shorter shocks as supplied by Chris witor (typically Konis etc are too long) This prevent the trailing arm dropping too far.

2. The slightly bodgier AJP, AJT, "my shocks are brand bloody new!"method... Find a 2-3 inch length of suitable diameter exhaust pipe or similar and fit inside the upper spring mount and tag weld or self tap screw in place... this extends the locating part of the mount making spring escape impossible....

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Andy,

I have fitted those KYB shockers that Chris sells.

I like the idea of fitting the exhaust pipe length, gotta be a simple mod. Undo the shocker bottom bolt, take out driveshaft, take brake back plate off the 6 bolts, undo the nut that clamps brake pipe to trailing arm and support weight of back plate. Swing trailing arm down. Fit modded pipe and reassemble- bilmey a couple of hours per side.

Thanks very much for info.

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Tim, i had the same problem with my springs. In the end i bought Spax adjustable shocks for a stag. (cos i needed adjustables to get the damping spot on)

As supplied they are too long, but the lower end of the shock is a machined section welded to the main body. There is then the stud that the washer and then the rubbers slide over. There is a collar on the stud for the upper washer to seat against. I simply opened up the hole on the upper washer to clear the collar and it now seats on the bottom of the machined section. This has the effect of shortening the shock. Does that make sense??

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Yes.

I have a bit of a problem with Spax shockers that goes back 20 years. I bought some for my GT6 in 1984, however within the year the adjuster had seized and the bottom rubbers had perished. I slung them and got some std. shockers which did the job for a number of years, however i fitted konis in 1989(?), still on the car and working fine.

I think i'll go for Andy T's idea, it seems a good idea, might also be useful for Steve the TR7 Rally rep man, see thread under TR7s.

Thanks for the advice Roger.

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