Piran Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 How low should the clutch bite point be on a 13/60 ?We've been having problems changing gear (usually fine for the first mile and then progressively harder to change), I've replaced the clevis pin which took up some of the slack but the bite point currently is about 1" from the floor. I haven't driven her much since changing this but would feel better with the bite point a bit higher, so any ideas where I should look for this ?thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
heraldcoupe Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Has it always been like this in your ownership, or has it changed recently?An originally configured Herald will have the bite point broadly in the mid range of travel, not particularly high or low. Modern replacement clutches are a different matter though, thinner linings and (in some cases) completely redesigned covers frequently make the bite point exceptionally low. The slave cylinder's piston can be right at the end of it's travel and hitting the circlip before there is any release. The engineered fix is to modify the release bearing carrier to bring the bearing closer to the cover when at rest. As this requires substantial dismantling and (understandably) more work than anyone should expect with a simple clutch replacement, welding an extension onto the slave cylinder pushrod is a quick and dirty fix.It may of course be something else, but the above is a very common cause of the problem,Cheers,Bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piran Posted June 6, 2015 Author Share Posted June 6, 2015 I'm pretty sure the bite point was higher. I don't know whether I should be looking at seals in the slave or master cylinder or whether I'm looking at gearbox out .... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
daver clasper Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Hi everybody.My Mk 1 Vitesse 2 Ltre has the same issue.Is it possible to use spacers to move the slave cylider closer to clutch arm.CheersDave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Clive Posted June 6, 2015 Share Posted June 6, 2015 Possible...and simple. On herald/spit have alsp heard of [people enlarging the slot on the side of the slave so it can be moved forward in the clamp.the other "bodge" is to use a larger bore master cylinder, landrover I believe. 0.75 bore so will make the pedal heavier. Not what I would do, but should work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piran Posted June 7, 2015 Author Share Posted June 7, 2015 I think James Paddock do a slave cylinder with improved travel... About £17 iirc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piran Posted June 13, 2015 Author Share Posted June 13, 2015 Ha! Managed to get the slave cylinder off - once I realised that the bolt needed taking out rather than just being undone. I refurbished it, put it all together again and..... The bite point is somewhere the other side of the bulkhead! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piran Posted June 13, 2015 Author Share Posted June 13, 2015 Managed to get the master cylinder off (then got the pipe off) and get it apart with the help of a plastic bag and a bike pump. Replaced seals, refilled and bled and now back to having about an inch of travel from the floor to the bite point.... Unfortunately I don't remember how far down the bite point was before will take her out for a longer run tomorrow and see how she does. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nang Posted June 13, 2015 Share Posted June 13, 2015 Check pivots on the pedal to master cylinder. Hole in master cyl wears oval and/or pin wears increasing travel. Same thing happens at the clutch end .Doesn't take much wear to increase pedal travel.Tony. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piran Posted June 13, 2015 Author Share Posted June 13, 2015 Thanks, I've already replaced the clevis pin and there wasn't much play in the pedal - but I'll have another look Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Piran Posted June 15, 2015 Author Share Posted June 15, 2015 Well the only slack in the system now is on the pushrod going into the master cylinder. All seals replaced all bits tightened and bite point is about 1" off the carper I guess it's gearbox out next and see what's going on in there.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted June 21, 2015 Share Posted June 21, 2015 you must have some small free play in the Mcyl pushrod or the cylinder wont refill from the reservioryou can slot the cyl mount brackets to and slide the bracket on its baulkhead 4 bolts this will raise the pedal, but dont close the free play down to nil please confirm bleed on slave is uppermost above the pipethis sounds like the throwout pin and its 'tolerance ring' may have dropped , have a look down the o/s of the clutch hsg you can just see the top of the pivot pin Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeus Posted June 22, 2015 Share Posted June 22, 2015 I found that bleeding the clutch slave is best done with the rear of the car lifted up on axle stands. That way the bleed nipple on the slave is at the highest point - where the air bubble is - and so bleeds better.Zeus Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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