Chunky020 Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Talk about being blind when buying a car, I have totally missed the fact that there is no clutch pedal movement in the 1600 Vitesse project I have brought!, that and the rose tinted goggles that yes I can undertake all the welding and other problems associated with a car resto with a knackered back! Anyhow back to the point ! the car is very hard to push at present ( yes its a non runner) thought it was the rear brakes binding its even worse when pushing backward, looks like the clutch is binding there is absolutely no movement in the pedal totally solid the car has been stood 2 years prior to me buying it!, are there any tips to freeing the clutch off without braking anything!!!! is it the plate thats stuck or is it likely to be master or slave gone ? the old spring clutches are kind of difficult to source now so don't want to go in to heavy handed.......................... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 If the pedal won't move it's probably a seized master or slave, or both. If the car won't roll in neutral the brakes probably are seized as well. As it has been stood for 2 years the clutch plate is probably stuck to the flywheel as well. All the best,. Dave. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dogsbody47uk Posted September 16, 2014 Share Posted September 16, 2014 Also check for seized pedal bushes.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunky020 Posted September 17, 2014 Author Share Posted September 17, 2014 thanks for the pointers, Master cylinder pushrod seized, I have sorted that will have a look at the rear brakes this weekend, can I ask where is the strongest point to jack the car at the rear (pre rotaflex vitesse) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
herald948 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 You can use the differential itself or the crossmember just aft of the diff. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Matt306 Posted September 17, 2014 Share Posted September 17, 2014 dont jack the chassis on the 'dips' water congregate there and rust follows Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunky020 Posted September 18, 2014 Author Share Posted September 18, 2014 there are quite a few plates under there so dont want to lose the jack in the chassis will try the diff or cross member as safest options then,will be redoing all the previous welding jobs and the plates will all be coming off once I moved house and get to grips with the old girl just need to make her more mobile in the mean time Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Elma fud Posted September 19, 2014 Share Posted September 19, 2014 You could remove the spark plugs that would may it easier to push because you are not try to fight against compressing the engine, you can also pour some oil down the bores to help lubricte the rings, just remember to refit the plugs when you have finaly moved her so thing don't fall in the holes later! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 20, 2014 Share Posted September 20, 2014 I converted the coil cover and disc to a 2ltr diaphragm unit you need a 2 ltr throwout bearing carrier and drill a additional dowel hole to make it fit.watch any replacement clutch kits as the bearings are only 15mm thick the orig is 19mm and this upsets the lever angles and leverage. ratio's. the book jacking is under the outer corners of the siderail/outrigger, not if the old girl is rusty,but the diff rear crossmember and engine crossmember are usually sound Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunky020 Posted September 21, 2014 Author Share Posted September 21, 2014 Thanks didn't know about the clutch mod will bear that in mind if the old ones had it!, lifted on the rear cross member !, plates on the chassis are sound but look a right mess so will cut them out when I get the body off, rear hubs where binding badly so stripped both cleaned out the rust re lubed the adjusters etc , will put stainless hoses on and fit new cylinders later as one is weeping slightly and the other isn't letting off totally or as quickly as I would like, still shes a lot easier to move now! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted September 23, 2014 Share Posted September 23, 2014 if you ever need to change just the disc remember a coil disc is thicker than a diaphragm one if you inter mix you really upset the clamp/pedal loads hysterisis both will fit. so must be matched by design.yes new cylinders cheap , not worth messing with worn ones, had one car we were involved with fixing and some bright spark had fitted the piston about face to try and make the wrong seal a good fit, leaked like a sieve but it had an MOT that morning .Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chunky020 Posted September 23, 2014 Author Share Posted September 23, 2014 never worth chancing it with the brakes !, New slave cylinders and stainless braided hoses on order!, I would prefer the car to look original but have gone with poly bushes and braided hoses as sensible upgrades that will get the purists frothingthanks for the pointers Pete hope not to need a new clutch as-well as all the rest of the bits I need (plenty to do) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
.thumb.jpeg.b15b81ef10abeea1c3039ae03c4a9f3a.jpeg)
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.