Good Clutch, Bad Clutch....

[Phil Wright]

Can anyone recommend a decent quality replacement clutch that will last?

I had a B&B pressure plate with a QH spring plate in my car that did 30k miles and was ok. However when I changed the gearbox I thought i'd better check the clutch to see if it was worn. The friction lining was fine (barely worn) but all the rivets had worn away and the whole thing was loose. I swapped it with a very lightly used complete B&B clutch that a friend of mine fitted just before the car was broken for spares.

However, after doing a few miles I noticed the clutch pedal stiffened significantly when the pedal was depressed. This was not as bad when the engine was revved, and disappears completely when the engine is off. Otherwise the clutch is fine, and does not slip at all. I did the 10CR with it and it didnt get any worse, and about 500 miles since. Also, you sometimes get a howling noise when the clutch is pressed right down.

Has anyone got any ideas as to what it could be? Andy Turner suggested to me that the backplate may be slightly bent, which I will investigate. I don't mind having to replace the clutch again (appart from the aggro of taking the thing out), but I want to make sure I get a good one that I can trust, as the car does get used for a fair amount of long distance work. Can anyone recommend the paddle clutches from Canley Classics as far as durability is concerned?

I have read similar threads on the TR register forum where several members have raised concerns about the quality of the replacement clutches. They seem to wear prematurely and have broken up during use - which would have happened to me had I attempted the 10CR with the old unit.

Also, can anyone let me know how much weight would be good to get skimmed off the flywheel? I fancy having a go at this while the engine is out - might as well! Its a MKIV, with the late type crank - not been balanced but it is very smooth; Sounds like a turbine according to Benspeed  ;D

[Pete Lewis]

In general I would say a paddle/ceramic style disc is good for short sharp use eg racing but are not normally progressive in operation as there is no cushioning of the facings like a disc unit.and don't suit normal use.
if the noise/feeling changes with the engine running it sounds like lost crank thrust washers, get someone to watch the front pulley whilst you press see if it moves.
Ive just converted my Vit6 from a coil cover to a new Canley diaphragm unit and so far its been fine and a new built for £47  time will tell...peter

[Dicky Blighter]

I fitted one of the Canley £47 clutches earlier this year and although not done many miles this summer had no problems with it. Only thing I have noticed though is that it has quite strong springs making a need for a fairly strong left leg, does mean though you can drop the clutch quick and do some impressive wheel spins  ;D