kemp42 Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Can the flywheel be removed from the engine with the latter still in situ, i.e by removing the gearbox ? I have a 2500TC engine in my Stag (fitted many years ago by previous owner) and it sounds as though teeth are stripping at one point.Any advice appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andy thompson Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 yes - easilyGetting the gearbox off is a little trickier Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 As Andy says. Taking the box out isn't great fun....Before doing this, drop the starter out and turn the engine by hand while watching the ring-gear through the starter hole. You may find the ring gear has moved back so the starter teeth can't quite reach it everywhere and I have heard of someone managing to recover that situation without removing the gearbox using a g-clamp like device to squeeze the ring-gear back into place. Obviously this won't help if the teeth are much chewed up.Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 27, 2014 Share Posted March 27, 2014 Good solid axle stands, 3 ton jack and a willingness to work under the car without panicing. Usually have the box out in a couple of hours, changing clutch/flywheel takes a couple of hours, putting it all back together can take longer...Can be done in a day, personally I prefer over two weekends with the week in the middle to buy/order all the bits I suddenly discover I might as well change, (while I'm there). Such as clutch, release arm bushes, release arm... gearbox nose oil seal, engine rear oil seal, finding the clutch alighnment tool etc, Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh18 Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 Hey guys, on the subject of gearbox removal/ installation, has anyone ever tried to put the box back in with half of the bolts missing. The amount of bolts on the flange seems excessive and I know these old pommy cars seem to be very over engineered in some cases. Removing and refitting the box would have to be one of the most painful jobs I have done on this car because of all those PITA to get at bolts!Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 8465 wrote:Hey guys, on the subject of gearbox removal/ installation, has anyone ever tried to put the box back in with half of the bolts missing. One of my cars has the gearbox refitted with lots of the bolts missing, mostly because the gorillas who had it out in the past broke a big chunk off the bell housing in the process.:-( Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 They're there for a reason. :)Use a airline ratchet drive to undo them and do them up (from underneath); doesn't take too long. Easier if you have a second pair of hands to hold a spanner on the engine side.The three studs at the top are a sod to get to. I use a Britool extra long extension bar (its about 30" long) to get to the top ones over the gearbox.Don't forget when reassembling two of the bolts are 9/16" AF rather than 1/2" AF. These are dowel bolts for locating the gearbox correctly on the back-plate. They are 180 degrees apart. These are quite often neglected when people put the box back in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 when i striped mine to break,it was easy to remove,using a ratchet spanner for the 3 top nuts,all other can be removed from underneath,i had my o/d gearbox out in 1hr after car jacked up and axle stand,sold gearbox in 3hr later,,these are one of the easy gearboxes to remove,spent more time cleaning the non-overdrive gearbox then fitting it back in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kemp42 Posted March 28, 2014 Author Share Posted March 28, 2014 Thanks everbody for the advice.I'll check things with the starter off first but it's a job which wont start for a couple of months until my garage sees the back of a Jowett which I'm selling, then the Stag can move in. Keep wondering if the fact it is a 2500 engine/box in a Stag will make bolts accessibility much harder - time will tell !IanLockerbie(former Bridgwater resident, Nick!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick Jones Posted March 28, 2014 Share Posted March 28, 2014 1985 wrote:(former Bridgwater resident, Nick!)Pretty comprehensive escape made then :) (why would anyone leave Bilgewater :-/)Don't think the fact that it's in a Stag makes much different to access. You need to remove the gearbox crossmember and let the engine/box droop down a long way at the rear so you can poke a long extension over the top to get at the upper bolts/nuts. It comes off happily enough (especially if you left some part of your anatomy under it to break its fall). Getting it back up, lined up and engaged is the less fun part.Note that if the ring gear has moved, this is something that they are known for. Some tack weld them to hold in place, others (me included) drill and tap the circumference of the flywheel (3 x 1/4" unf in my case) and then screw some caphead screws in to prevent it moving back again. Loctite the screws!Nick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kemp42 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hi Folks, Jowett now gone to warmer climes (Glos) - Stag can now move into the garage. Have had the starter off and photoed the ring gear teeth where worn, see attached - they are significantly worn back in two places. What I don't understand, and perhaps someone with the knowledge can enlighten me, is why the starter pinion should go to a full power spin (and wear back the ends of the ring gear teeth) WHEN THE PINION TEETH HAVE NOT ENGAGED WITH THE FLYWHEEL RING GEAR TEETH ?. I thought the pinion teeth had to move significantly into engagement before the contact at the rear of the solenoid could 'make', to give power to the starter ?? Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nicmk1est Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 think the ring gear should be flat against the flywheel edge,seams to be a gap,,few mills Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kemp42 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Yes, Nick mentioned this might be an issue in an earlier post. Will check it all the way round. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 22, 2014 Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hello Ian, that ring gear has moved quite a lot, hopefully a stout 'G' clamp will jack it back into position, you'll need to go round bit by bit inching it back into place.You are right about how the starter should work, I don't suppose you have a spacer ring fitted between the starter and the back plate? (I'm guessing not or you would think that could be the problem together with the displace ring gear?) If you have a multimeter and connect it across the main terminals and manually activate the pinion fork to see where the contacts actually make. This will give some idea of how far the pinion moves before power would be applied to the motor?Personally I don't like the idea of tack welding the ring in place, welding cast iron to steel needs suitable filler material or dissimilar welding rods (arm and a leg) even then the section at that point on the flywheel is small so it will likely crack.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kemp42 Posted April 22, 2014 Author Share Posted April 22, 2014 Hi Alec,No, no spacer there and nor do I have a multimeter!. I'll get my hands on one next time I'm down in Carlisle and check as you say in case the solenoid is faulty. I have actually just bought a secondhand flywheel with fairly good ring gear so I can have that drilled/tapped before having it fitted. The change will be a garage job - at 72 I'm unfortunately too 'feeble' to tackle these big jobs anymore and don't have any 'muscle' help nearby.Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
piman Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Hello Ian, you could improvise with a torch and some wire as a test lamp, all you need is to know when there is continuity.Alec Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Richard B Posted April 23, 2014 Share Posted April 23, 2014 Personally, I would do it properly. Take the gearbox off, have a new ring gear fitted. (Ring gear about £20, fitting usually about £20)If you are feeling flush, fit a lightened flywheel from Chris Witor, (big benifit on a 2.5)If you are feeling really flush, also fit a Hi-Torque starter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kemp42 Posted May 1, 2014 Author Share Posted May 1, 2014 Wow !. Have actually pulled the ring gear back tight to the flywheel edge 'stop'. Really didn't expect to be able to do this from under the car but didn't take long once I found a G clamp that would fit into the aperture.. See photo and thanks for the suggestion, Alec. It was up to 1/8th away at the worst point. Doesn't solve the worn teeth problem but may give me a breathing space 'till next winter.Can't try it out yet - car up on blocks for undercleaning/renovation and lots of bits off at present. Awaiting some new brake pipes & hoses after which will be ready to get it back to ground level and give it a go.Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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