engine mounts

[SRF]

After refitting the gearbox, and working on the car, I noticed that the sump of the engine is very close if not touching the new steering rack.  When I fitted the rack I used the solid alloy mounts.  I had to loosen one engine mount and raise the engine slightly  so that I could remove and refit the rack.

I also noticed that there were shims between the mounts and the chassis.  They are similar to the shims used to alter the camber of the steering.

Can anyone tell me how much clearance there should be between the sump and steering rack?  are the shims correct or a bodge and will new mounts make any difference.  thanks  

[Nick Jones]

A miss is a good as a mile.......  If the existing mounts are a bit saggy then new ones may help, though not sure whether any of the current new ones are worth having.......?  Recent experience anyone?  It is quite usual to find shims (same as front camber shims) between mount and engine bracket.  Mine has a stack of them in the interests of keeping the tubular manifold away from the steering column.

Nick

[SRF]

Thanks Nick, "you are the go to man"

[ferny]

Nick_Jones wrote:

though not sure whether any of the current new ones are worth having.......?

Nick

Gave up on them, fitted solid ones instead. Expect a thread on how to repair my chassis soon...

[piman]

Hello Ray,

"A miss is a good as a mile.......", only if there is no evidence that the sump and the rack are not touching when driving, i.e when the engine moves on it's mounts?

Alec

[Martin M]

Hi,
agree to Nick, the currently sold rubber mountings are questionable quality.
Moss sells UKC8330 uprated ones. Happy with them for 2 years now.
Martin

[SRF]

The reason I checked them was because after fitting my new box!  I thought it still sounded a bit droney when I drove it up the driveway.  I think the engine was touching the steering rack, as well as me not fitting the rack so that the steering column was clear of the bulkhead.   I have ordered some extra shims so I will try a couple each side first.


My MOT is booked for 1.30 pm tomorrow.  The last car I restored a Rover P4 broke down on the way to its first test. It had been  laid up for years, faulty brand new condenser!!!!!!     now on electronic ignition. I will probably convert the Vitesse soon.   I would love to give it a good long test drive before the test, but the plod have No plate recognition vans in our area, so its not worth the risk.

[minimad5]

Not super happy about the quality of the engine mounts i currently have, got them from Rimmer brothers a few months back and they have already started to crack  :-/

Don't want to go through the hassle of trying to get new ones from them, is there no ploybush alternative ?

[SRF]

It passed with flying colours, just scraping through on the handbrake though.  I haven't replaced the cables yet and the rear lever is not quite at the right angle.  I might consider fitting longer levers at the brake back plate.   My only other minor problem is the indicators don't cancel.    I am fired up for the next stage if it would only  stop raining.  I want to have the bonnet, boot and doors blasted, but I need to have a good dry day to get them home on my trailer  before they have a chance to rust again.  

[SRF]

From information  gleaned from this forum I have sorted the non cancelling indicators.   The clip on the column was 180 degrees out.. with  the steering wheel off it was easy to see.  It was just a matter of disconnecting thr joint at the steering rack.  Then turning the shaft that goes through the steering so that the bump on the clip is in line with the indicator switch.  Reconnect the rack line up the steering wheel.  Job done.