Steven Lowe Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 Morning all, Is there an oil seal at the front of the gear box on the 13/60? it`s just that while looking for a rear seal on line it sometimes comes op as a set ( front & rear) got the housing off but can`t see one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 16, 2018 Share Posted July 16, 2018 No seal on the front, just a scroll. The 2L box and the later single-rail had a front seal but not the Herald. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 16, 2018 Author Share Posted July 16, 2018 cheers thanks for that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 19, 2018 Author Share Posted July 19, 2018 Good Afternoon, Got the engine back in and am waiting for new coolant hoses to arrive, i noticed that the heater hoses were really badly silted up! i back flushed the radiator while it was off it and seemed ok so what`s the best way to flush the rest of the system? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 Flushing the engine well isnt so easy as the inlet and outlet waterways connect directly to the waterpump body and other than taking this off completely theres no way to get a good flow through. There should be a little tap or plug low down on the block which in theory should let all the accumulated dirt drain out while you pour water in from the top but quite often the tap is seized (and snaps) or is blocked with sludge or wont close again afterwards...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Lewis Posted July 19, 2018 Share Posted July 19, 2018 the problem here is the use of too long bolts , they bottom out and tightening just strips the threads, m10 or 3/8 unc will work on sump or timing cover into the alloy block but do check the bolt lengths or you will just repeat the stripping invest in a steel one if needs must , they are belt and braces Pete Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 21, 2018 Author Share Posted July 21, 2018 After noon all, came to start the 13/60 after a couple of weeks and won`t start! i took the fuel line off at the carb and put it into a jar to see if fuel was pumping through while i turned the engine at the key and not a drop! i tried the lever on the pump but not sure how it`s supposed to feel it felt a bit sloppy! the cars been nose up on ramps for a couple of weeks so how long should it take to pump through? i have a good spark at the points and plenty of fuel in. although i`m not sure how the reserve in the tank works, when you put fuel in should the lever be in the main position or does it matter! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 I keep mine permanently selected to use the whole tank ie lever pointing across the car as I dont want it going onto reserve at an awkward moment. Have you got fuel at the inlet to the pump cos if not it has to be sucked back over the syphon that the outlet pipe makes as it exits the top of the tank. This requires your pump to be in good condition and can take a while to pull the fuel through - if necessary you can carefully blow in the tank filler to pressurise it a little and help the process...... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 21, 2018 Share Posted July 21, 2018 Is the car still nose-up? That makes the pump's job marginally harder but I don't think that's the problem. If all is working right, the pump should start to draw fuel through an empty pipe in two or three strokes of the priming lever. Ignore the reserve tap - if the tank's at least quarter full it makes no difference. The priming lever should not feel sloppy if the outlet pipe is disconnected and poking into a jar. The only time it should feel loose is when there's pressure in the outlet pipe (due to full carbs) holding the diaphragm down. If the pump's fully dry, the lever is pulling against the diaphragm spring so you should feel it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Morning all, Good news the 13/60`s running thanks to you all again! i had to suck the fuel through , very tasty! the bad news is there`s still a very slight leak in the same area ( the sealing block) but everywhere else looks good, one other thing, one of the retaining nuts for the fuel pump is a long shanked nut with a screw driver slot in the end! what`s that all about? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glang Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 yes maybe your pump isnt 100% then - all it needs is for one of the two non return valves to leak a little and itll still work but not efficiently. There are repair kits available but theyre almost the price of a replacement after market pump (which is what I went for with no problems). The pump fixing you mention doesnt sound standard as mine just has ordinary nuts and spring washers but if the flange doesnt leak its obviously doing the job. With the sump and sealing block dont forget to check the tighteness of the bolts after a few heat cycles but dont overtighten as, especially with the sump, it can distort and effectively cut through the gasket..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 OK thanks got that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 The nut you describe doesn't belong there. I'd swap it for a normal nut. If it's a 5/16 UNF (which I think the pump to block studs are) then it sounds like a 1500 rocker cover nut. They changed to that on late engines to discourage mechanics from over-tightening them and crushing the rocker cover. Earlier engines had hex nuts and a torque setting of 1.5lbft, a.k.a. just beyond finger tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 Seem to recall I've got one of those same odd nuts in the same place on my 1200, unless I changed it. It might be easier to work with than a standard hex nut on one side or the other where there's not much room. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 You could be right the rear nut`s a bit of a pain to get at! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Maybe someone was in a hurry and grabbed and grabbed anything Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 22, 2018 Author Share Posted July 22, 2018 Excuse the two grabbed`s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bitumen Boy Posted July 22, 2018 Share Posted July 22, 2018 IIRC they're both a bit awkward but an old fashioned box spanner works a treat. Still available in AF sizes from Machine Mart, not expensive and more useful than you'd think. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 23, 2018 Author Share Posted July 23, 2018 Thanks for the tip on the box spanners! a set is on it`s way from ebay for £6.00, does anyone have or do they know were i can get instructions for refitting the bonnet section? can`t seem to find much online! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 24, 2018 Author Share Posted July 24, 2018 Morning all, Any tips on refitting the bonnet on the 13/60 would be appreciated! i have the front bumper removed at the moment, will i be able to fit it with the bonnet in place or should i fit it first? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 24, 2018 Share Posted July 24, 2018 As I recall from when I replaced my Vitesse's engine, the overrider is fitted last. The valance, which holds the bumper sections, probably gets in the way, too. I'm fairly sure I had to remove it, so it probably fits after the bonnet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Good Morning, Does anyone know where i can get hold of a bonnet adjusting rod as i have sheared mine off! even after heating it up 30 min`s, Rimmers have a set for £46.00 but i only need one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobPearce Posted July 25, 2018 Share Posted July 25, 2018 I could have a look in the box of bits in the loft. Where did you shear it, and what were you trying to do? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Hi, It`s the L/H thread side, i coudn`t shift it at all while on the car so i put it in the vice heated it up with the blow lamp for 30 min`s it moved half a turn and sheared off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steven Lowe Posted July 25, 2018 Author Share Posted July 25, 2018 Just to ad to my last post Rob it sheared about 1/2 inch inside the long adjusting nut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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