Radiator Replacement options.

[JamieY]

Whats the best option to upgrade a radiator in a 13/60?? Any advice on one that will fit with minimal modifications??

[mikeyb]

another 13/60 one?  :)  

Seriously, if you have an overheating problem on a standard 13/60 then all you need to do is to ensure the standard items are in 1st class condition.  Even if your engine is uprated, a decent standard rad should be more than sufficient. Assuming you do have an overheating problem, you need to identify and rectifiy the source of your problems.

A radator re-core should cost you around 100 quid, I can't remember if a 13/60 has a narrow rad with side panels like the Spit or a full width one (no side panels) like the earlier Heralds. If you want a full width one for re-core, I have several spare.  That's what I run in my Herald Rally Car.

[ferny]

MikeyB wrote:

I can't remember if a 13/60 has a narrow rad with side panels like the Spit or a full width one (no side panels) like the earlier Heralds.

Narrow on the later cars for certain. I have seen some early ones with a full-width but they may have been fitted by the owner.

[Clive]

Hmm, location means something japanese or holden I would guess  ;)
best bet is to have a measure up, and see what will fit, handy to get the inlets/outlets the same positions roughly. I wonder if the upright civic rad that a few have fitted would work?
most alternative rads will need a separate header tank which complicates things a little.

But as above, a std rad in good condition is more than adequate. Unless it is getting a V8 or something?

[JamieY]

Haven't got an overheating problem I'm just making sure everything is in tip top condition for our long hot NZ summer when i will be driving it the most. Just noticing the radiator is looking a bit old and tired as are the pipes so i intended on a quick weekend job of replacing the system. Can get the hoses no problems but finding a decent 13/60 radiator will be a mission in itself

[Davemate]

I had mine re cored with a three core matrix instead of the origanal two core.
Far cheaper than buying a new rad and better !

[Nick Moore]

I think the radiators in NZ Heralds were locally made and all full width - NZ laws in the sixties decreed that a certain percentage of a CKD-built car's parts had to be sourced locally. If your Herald's radiator is looking a bit ropey, any competent radiator shop can recore it for not a lot of money. A standard core is fine if you're keeping yor engine-driven fan, but higher performance cores are available if you're thinking about fitting an electric fan a some point.

[nang]

I had a rotten one in my Mk4 Spit.
Found it cheaper to get a NEW full width one from Canley's than getting mine recored locally, even when the freight cost was added.
Was told by one radiator man locally that the copper cost had gone through the roof.
Tony.

[Stu 1986]

I had my radiator recored and it is a lovely job, but this was about 4 years ago now, before metal prices increased.

Before I switched to the Vitesse Engine, my 13/60 unit had a full width radiator fitted, which I'm told aids cooling.

[Paudman]

nang wrote:

Was told by one radiator man locally that the copper cost had gone through the roof.
Tony.

Yes but that sort of phrase can mean only a modest increase in price i.e. a recore costing £100 may go up by the same price as copper has e.g. 10% but that's still only £110. Luckily we don't have to deal in tons! I was sold lead recently with a lot of apology about the huge price hike, only to find it had gone from £80 to £83...
I also had my rad recored as a three-row matrix, the full-width rad only cost £100 to do and it's running well within capacity for the original engine.

[fastbetty]

I am going to get my rad re cored and have been quoted £90 for standard or £130 for an improved rad. not sure which I should go for . when fitting a new rad is there a  bleeding process. I herd some scare stories the other day suggesting that some cars could be damaged if all the air is not purged. please forgive my lack of knowledge , only a begginer.

[Paudman]

No bleeding required; just a gentle squeeze of the top hose with the cap off to expel air in there. Fill the rad to the top, leave it to go down or settle for a few minutes, refill, start the engine with the cap off and let it idle for a minute or two, then top up again and replace the cap. You may find some air in the heater hoses, but this can be easily rectified by removing the top heater hose and letting the water bubble up until all the air is out. Unless you radically under-fill you'll not hurt an engine with a small quantity of air trapped in a heater hose or two; after the first good run at full operating temperature you can top up once cold again.