Twincarb Posted October 23, 2012 Author Share Posted October 23, 2012 Hi Bruce,For the chassis I have used rustoleum paints, the white paint is there primer which is designed for heavy industrial use (but available in 1ltr cans) I applied 2 coats with a paint brush.... applying it with a roller would have been far better and would have left a lot less to rub down! Once all is done I intend leaving the chassis just painted and then keep an eye on the chassis to see how it stands up to UK roads and chips. If it needs more protection I will just dinitrol it...The ball joints are just standard one's from rimmer it looks like the rubber can be pulled back to add extra grease but I have always thought of ball joints as consumerble items.The workshop is great the only downside is its 70 miles from where I live so can't just pop out to do 30 mins work when I am at home!Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Just got my Upright back from having the stub axle pushed out... It took 6 tons of pressure to break the seal.... On looking inside there appears to be a ring of rust where it would have bonded.... I have got a new stub axle ordered which should arrive today. Then it will be cleaning up the upright to remove the ring and check it's still useable. I think i will get some moly grease inside the joint to hopefully prevent it from occuring again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dannyb Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 Check the new stub axle has the same amount of thread as the old one. Some of the new ones differ.One I bought had to go back as it had the wrong thread on the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 25, 2012 Author Share Posted October 25, 2012 Have now checked the new stub and it's the right size.... comparing it to the old one it looks like the old one was cast and then shaped on a lathe the new one looks like it has been lathed from a rod. Will be cleaning the uprights this weekend so will post a couple of before and after pics.... With any luck once I have shown my face in work on monday I will be able to disappear and get some work done on the car.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
drofgum Posted October 25, 2012 Share Posted October 25, 2012 6059 wrote:Have now checked the new stub and it's the right size.... comparing it to the old one it looks like the old one was cast and then shaped on a lathe the new one looks like it has been lathed from a rod. The original part was forged then finish turned. The new part may indeed have been turned from a rod. I would not be surprised to learn that the new ones are made on computerised machines automatically. Cheers, Paul Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 Not been up to a lot recently with work getting in the way again however I managed to do some cleaning last night... I also spent 10 mins sorting out the colour on the photo's below so they are showing the colours off a lot better. As can be seen I haven't got a lot to finish cleaning this evening... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 3, 2012 Author Share Posted November 3, 2012 I posted earlier saying that I didn't think that the LH vertical link was original.... Once I had cleaned it in the blaster all the original markings were showing! It had been painted several times by the looks of it and had some pretty heavily gunked on grease as well. Best I head off to work now and finish sorting out the rear axels! If only there was some heating in the hanger!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sheepy Posted November 3, 2012 Share Posted November 3, 2012 That's very blue! But a nice shade. Looks great with the black suspension parts. :)Is that your test sample on the door in the background? Are you doing the body blue also?Looking good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 Yeah thats a test patch on the door I haven't rubbed it down at all.... cause the paint has a very high gloss the finish is going to have to be spot on or any problems will show up! I managed to split the rear hubs last night, just got to take the rear trunions off along with taking the old bearings out. It was a bit on the cold side in the workshop last night approx 3 degrees so didn't even attempt to paint anything....Not going to be able to finish the painting of the running gear etc untill prob next monday as this week I am on a course all week....Got some more photo's to post later of how the hubs came apart. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted November 4, 2012 Author Share Posted November 4, 2012 This is how they looked when I started... The one on the right has got 2 nuts on it for some reason.... is this time to get suspicious of someone's handywork before I got here.... only one way to find out....In the vice and time to start cranking the big bolt.... One gave a saisfying pop as it gave the second jumped about an inch before settling back downThis is them both off... the one on the right is the one that had 2 nuts on.... Best I post a clearer photo of what I found.Haven't got a photo which shows it clearly.... What has happened is the thread of the first nut had stripped and so the second nut was holding it securely in place... It looks like I should be able to just unwind the stripped thread and worst case scenario will be recutting the thread if needed. Will take another photo showing it before I attack it.... All I need to do now is push back the trunnions and then get the old bearings up... Any advice on here about this part? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tr niall Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 The Bearing and Carrier pull Forward. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted November 4, 2012 Share Posted November 4, 2012 Just press the axle back through the hub. The hub is only located by friction, no lands.Then tap the ball race outwards. The inner, roller bearing and seal, drift out the other way as I remember it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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