Twincarb Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 Been busy with work and a couple of other projects so work on the Spitfire has been a bit thin on the ground.... But I have managed to make a bit of headway and things are progressing... Couple of photo's to show what I have done so far... They say far more than what I can typing... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
molten Posted September 10, 2012 Share Posted September 10, 2012 be carefull you dont bang into anything in there mate - looks a bit tight for space - NOT (envious) :P Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 Bit of an explanation of the above over what the pictures say.... The main Sub Frame was in pretty good condition overall, a fair amount of surface rust but nothing to write home about, the front end had seen better days and had just had patches welded over rusted metal... I stripped her back to good metal and welded in new patches as required. New front end welded on and 2 coats of primer. I need to rub it down to get it ready to receive the final colour which is going to be a shade of blue.... with any luck I should be getting the first coat on on Wednesday night. That's as long as work is nice and quiet!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted September 10, 2012 Author Share Posted September 10, 2012 it's strange that despite having all the space around the car I seem to be bearing the marks of where I managed to catch myself on the frame several times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thescrapman Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 I'm impressed by the size of the Spill Kit outside your garage door.I knew my Triumphs were a bit leaky, yours must be a gusher.... :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Wright Posted September 11, 2012 Share Posted September 11, 2012 Looks a good project! I can vouch for the acid strip process - it really helps you to see where the corrosion is on the shell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 Health and Safety can never be too careful.... not to sure how I am going to mount the spill kit on the spitty yet... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted September 14, 2012 Author Share Posted September 14, 2012 Just had a couple of hours this afternoon to spare when I dropped off some bits to work, decided to put some colour back on the sub frame... Got to wait and see how it drys and then there will need to be more paint applied... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 Not a lot to add to here at the moment, work is getting in the way of me doing some proper work on the car so have bought the front hubs, axels, trunnions home to give them a good clean up... When I took the Grease nipple off I found it full of grease not oil as the book says! I am sure if i do a search i will be able to read why it needs oil and not grease.... just need to get the bits cleaned up and replace the consumables with new bits.... all looks good so far :Djust a couple of pics showing whats new... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 6, 2012 Share Posted October 6, 2012 Looking good. Are you using a bead blaster for the components or a wire wheel?RegardsBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 6, 2012 Author Share Posted October 6, 2012 I am using the grit blaster, with J-Blast Supafine which seems to be working well. I need to make a larger cabinet as the small one i have got doesn't have enough space and the between the work piece and window.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 6059 wrote:When I took the Grease nipple off I found it full of grease not oil as the book says! I am sure if i do a search i will be able to read why it needs oil and not grease.... As a very simplified explanation, grease by itself is not a lubricant, however when it is heated up it turns to oil, which then does the lubricating. In most cases it is used where there is a lot of movement, creating fairly localised hotspots (think bearings, U/Joints etc). The grease melts at these hotpoints, creating the oil, which a) lubricates the bearing, and b) removes heat out the object. Both of these tasks essentially prevent seizure. You will have noticed however, that most of these devices have greasing points (or nipples) to replenish the grease, as it burns and drips away (hence one reason why people fit U/J's with grease nipples over sealed U/J's).A trunnion does not move anywhere near as much as a bearing etc (it only moves when you turn the steering wheel), so it never builds up the heat required to melt the grease, so the grease never really does it intended job. Using an oil here instead gets round this issue, so it is always lubricated, and the oil can cope with removing the lesser amount of heat out of the trunnion.Now, no doubt several people will disagree, this is a point that has been debated many times already, but that is my elementary understanding is likely to be going on. I did a while back create a tutorial style piece on this, however I lost both my website it was on and the only backup I had at the time, so I need to rewrite it again. I might just attend to that in the near future actually, now you bring the subject up!Cheers,Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 Hi brookster,That explanation does seem to add up and makes a lot of sense to me. As for loosing your website for the life of me there is a place on the www that has a repository of saved websites but for the life of me i cant remember where it is. I will PM you if I can recall it and with any luck you will find it is saved in the deep dark bowls of the www. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thebrookster Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 I think you mean the rollback site, that takes snapshots of sites and stores them, tried a couple but not found it unfortunately, I may well have another look at some point though!If you happen to find it, I should be eternally grateful :)Cheers,Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 9, 2012 Author Share Posted October 9, 2012 http://wayback.archive.org just sent you a PM as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted October 9, 2012 Share Posted October 9, 2012 "Grease is a dispersion of some thickening agent in a liquid lubricant (generally a mineral or vegetable oil). Most thickeners are derived from organic fats. Treating such fats with a strong alkali, such as a compound of sodium, lithium, or barium, produces a metallic salt of the fatty acid involved - in chemical terms, a "soap", capable of absorbing and holding liquid within a semi-solid matrix.In lubrication terminology, that soap is called a "base". A common grease formulation involves a lithium base. Temperature extremes or other special conditions may dictate synthetic bases such as bentonite clay, with a diester or silicone oil."I have used Castrol LMM grease in the Spitfire trunnions since assembly in 1976 so I should be sent to the naughty corner.If this grease is left under pressure in a grease gun, oil will actually separate out and leak from the gun. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 12, 2012 Author Share Posted October 12, 2012 With it being a Friday and an early finish in work spent some time working on the car.... the sub frame is now the right way up so time to get some colour onto that side as shown below.The front end wishbone parts are all painted.... all be it in need of a touch up, I have replaced the original bushes with new poly ones. I have also got the new dampers and springs together. so they are ready to be fitted.next job is to mount the side bits back onto the subframe and paint the insides of them and then start putting the suspension back on. Just need to finish stripping and cleaning the trunnions and hubs etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 Just been stripping the Hubs for the front to replace the bearing with some shiny new ones, and also to clean up the vertical links and replace the trunnions as well. Have run into a small problem with the LH set up, the Axel stub is refusing to come out of the vertical link. Looks like I may have used the FBH to early! and bent the axel stub itself :(Heat on it seems not to have convinced it to split either. Have had a quick look on eBay and can't see any vertical links up there at the moment :( Does anyone know if the one's from Canleys are ok to use? I notice they are cheaper than else where....The other one is how much Grease is normally used for the bearings only reason I ask is that the entire hub assembly was full of grease on mine had several different colours as well so looks like they have been repacked Saying that there is grease everywhere on them at the moment!I would have thought that packing the bearing itself would have been sufficient....That leaves me with the brake disks to remove from the hubs.... bolts seem to be well cooked into place... I have left them soaking in penetrating fluid for now. Will prob be a job for Friday to take them to work and attempt to get them loose.... Now is this the excuse I have been looking for to get an impact driver for the compressor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sparky_spit Posted October 13, 2012 Share Posted October 13, 2012 Looking great Twincarb, and you certainly are making a good job of it. I don't know what you plan for rustproofing the inside of the chassis, but if you are happy that you have finished all the paint on it I'd get it rustproofed now while it's still easily moved about.Waxoyl or Dintrol cavity waxes, suitably thinned and heated, applied with the extn nozzle/lance kit will get into all areas through the holes in chassis, and being able to turn it upside down, and even put it up on its ends, will help enormously in getting thinned wax into and onto every internal surface. If you can get the chassis itself slightly warm with a space heater, even better.Far easier to do it now than when there's running gear, or even a bodyshell, attached. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 13, 2012 Author Share Posted October 13, 2012 Hi Sparky,The plan is to use waxoyl only cause it is one that I have heard of in the past.... I can see now would be the best time to put it into all the cavity's before I start rebuilding properly.... I did curse because I think i should have injected it in when I had the front off before I welded the new panel back on. You live and learn with these things mind.Thinking about it I guess the logical way is to waxoyl it inside the right way up and give it an hour to dry and then to flip the chassis over and do it again.... Belts and braces but will ensure there is a good even coating. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Van Posted October 17, 2012 Share Posted October 17, 2012 Re: New vertical links, I would definitely avoid. I bought one for a GT6 last year and it failed after 9 months. The oil way in the bottom is supposed to be about 7mm diameter and then reduce to 5.5mm well before the top of the thread. It is supposed to run up the centre of the threaded part. The new one I bought had a 7mm oil way all the way up which was not straight and came very close to the thread. The large diameter oil way and its position off centre makes it very weak. Needless to say I replaced it with a good second hand unit from a specialist Triumph workshop and I never got an apology or an explanation from the importer of this new stuff who, it would appear, does not seem to give a toss about people's safety. I even wrote a long letter explaining the problem and suggesting what action I think he should take regarding informing his customers of this serious flaw, and that I am doing his development work, and got no reply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 18, 2012 Author Share Posted October 18, 2012 I just had a look at mine and they are both different the one which "looks" original as it has RH stamped into it has a 7mm hole all the way through where as the other one has no stamp and has approx 7mm hole which is then stepped into a 5.5mm hole! leaves me wondering now which is the better one! Going to be a couple of weeks before they are going to need to be fitted back to the car mind so got some time to think it over. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
junkuser Posted October 18, 2012 Share Posted October 18, 2012 "I just had a look at mine and they are both different the one which "looks" original as it has RH stamped into it has a 7mm hole all the way through where as the other one has no stamp and has approx 7mm hole which is then stepped into a 5.5mm hole!"Makes me wonder if all originals were made by the same manufacturer to the same specifications and how this variation ties in with failures. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twincarb Posted October 22, 2012 Author Share Posted October 22, 2012 Got a little bit of work done on the car today as can be seen below.... Didn't get around to getting Dinitrol into the sub frame as there wasn't going to be the time to get it sorted.....Front suspension is getting there now.... need to touch up a couple of areas with the black paint to tidy it up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rubce Posted October 22, 2012 Share Posted October 22, 2012 HiA fascinating thread for me as I am a few months behind you. Did you purchase greasable top ball joints? What type of paint is under the blue? I am thinking of applying "anti-chip" paint to mine after a couple of coats of Rustbuster expoxi-mastic anti rust paint.Keep up the good work. I am very envious of your workshop!RegardsBruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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