Dannyb
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Everything posted by Dannyb
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It does not say what type of stainless steel they are made of. There are different grades and some have more chromium content then others. I made a stainless steel exhaust for my motorbike some years back and used 316 grade.This did look like chrome when polished.
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It does not say what type of stainless steel they are made of. There are different grades and some have more chromium content then others. I made a stainless steel exhaust for my motorbike some years back and used 316 grade.This did look like chrome when polished.
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The right hand one looks twisted and will need to be released and done up again. will have to bleed that one after.
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Does this help
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Like this where the red bits are small washers . diameter smaller than the inside of the stud
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I got around this when I did mine by plassing small washers over the pin of the rivets so they went into the studs and the nozzle of the gun stays outside. if that makes sence. thus making the nozzle of the gun longer and thinner.
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I see it's fitted with safety side impact string
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F/glass doors with perspex windows would be light.
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What ever you paint it. But originally it was black
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ajp wrote: Yes 240v AC from the inverter pluged into the fag lighter might throw it off a little! :) I forgot to tell you it was an electric car. I can only go as far as the local shops in it because the lead is not long enough. I'm saving for a longer lead so I can do the RBRR.
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Maybe I need to connect it to 10 v supply as the other gauges
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I thought the stat opens at 85C so would that not mean the oil should be operating around that temperature. I use the classic oil from Halfords.
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That's made my mind up thanks
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Just fitted a Oil temp gauge which takes it's reading from the sump plug. Been for a blast up the Aroad and the oil shows hot above normal and just below red line. I did bench test the gauge and sender before fiitting and 80C was normal mark. I have a 13 row oil cooler which I'm going to fit and wondered if it's worth fitting a thermostat. I was thinking of the one above made by Mocol.
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Who's got what to do for 2012?
Dannyb replied to Radders's topic in Round Britain Reliability Run (RBRR)
So far I have added headlight relays and osram nightbreaker bulbs. I have also fitted two 100W driving lamps behind the grill. I have new tyres fitted all round as my others were 9 years old. I will be fitting an oil cooler soon. Will do a complete service around Aug/Sept time. -
This is it
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This is it
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The trim on my Spit 1500 is stainless steel. When I restored it I replaced the windscreen and rubber and got the trim off ebay. Think it may have been advertised at GT6 trim. I don't think these tools would work on stainless trim. I remember spending about two days fitting it with a pointed tool I made up.
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The trim on my Spit 1500 is stainless steel. When I restored it I replaced the windscreen and rubber and got the trim off ebay. Think it may have been advertised at GT6 trim. I don't think these tools would work on stainless trim. I remember spending about two days fitting it with a pointed tool I made up.
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Was it this one.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-ROLLER-INSERT-TRIM-TOOL-CLASSIC-MINI-ROVER-COOPER-MORRIS-/390353532371?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ae2e235d3#ht_630wt_698
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Was it this one.... http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/WINDSCREEN-ROLLER-INSERT-TRIM-TOOL-CLASSIC-MINI-ROVER-COOPER-MORRIS-/390353532371?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item5ae2e235d3#ht_630wt_698
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Everything Pete says. Also check the clevis pin for play at the master cylinder end. Just the smallest bit of wear will give you a lot less peddle movement. I did have the same problem when I changed mine and it was down to the slave not pushed forward enough. In fact I elongated the cutout on the side of the slave to give it a little pit more movement forward.
