Sheepy
-
Posts
781 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Forums
Blogs
Events
Downloads
Gallery
Membership & Shop
Everything posted by Sheepy
-
Hi spencer, and welcome to the forum, good luck with the spit, looks just like mine, (I have just started stripping mine for resto also) see my thread. Don't be afraid to ask any questions on here, we are here to help, and also to have a laugh. So keep the spirits up. (the only stupid question, is the one you did not ask!) Can you weld? Where abouts are you located? May be a good idea to find your local triumph club, meeting etc. Go along chat to the guys, get to know them, see the cars, perhaps they will take you for a spin so you can see what awaits you! Also they will be willing to lend a hand if and when you get stuck. And keep us posted on here how you are getting along,
-
What no pictures! 🤔
-
8112 wrote:. That's a yes right. ;-) If they say nothing, it's a go!!!!! ;D For the gas, there is a company that do rent free cylinders, can't remember there name now (google it) but there was a thread about this recently. Go for argon, the welds are so much better, stronger, neater. And practice on old scraps first! And perhaps watch a video or two so you get an idea. Welding is the easy part, I can teach you to weld in 5 minutes! It's the prep work that ruins the job! You can't weld rust! ;)
-
For the wing, get a heritage panel, don't bother buying a cheaper copy, as it will be more faffing trying to fit it, worth the extra for a good quality wing. Also investing lots of mole grips, or other grips/clamps to hold all the panels in place, test fit all before doing any welding, easier to jiggle them about now, than once you have welded. As for the welder, do you really need a 190? Are you planning to weld other things (bigger) if it's just for the gt6 look at smaller welders, unless you can get the 190 for a good price. But then again you can always sell it on after. Are you looking at new or second hand? New ones come with a cheapo welding trigger/lead, if get a good second hand one, then buy a euro trigger! The feel is completely different and will improve the welding no end! I have a 190 but I weld all sorts of things, but I started out with a 130 many many moons ago. Also invest in a decent automatic mask, keep it clean and it will last for many years, I have just bought a new one, my old was more than 15 years old, it still works, but was easier/cheaper to buy a new one than fix up the old one.
-
Yes, When they balance the engine, they begin with the crank, then every part they attach thereafter is balanced. Front pulley, flywheel, cluth, etc etc So therefore, when you need to replace a part, as long as its balanced it will not upset the rest!
-
Looks like you have it in the good order! And you have done right to leave it on the chassis while doing the body! One thing you forgot to add to the list, "take lots of pictures and write a thread" ;)
-
Thanks Wim. Brett, firstly make up some support braces to hold it all in place, and correct alignment, then do sections at a time, don't just cut everything out in one go. For example, if replacing the floors, do one side at a time, brace the gap, then cut off the old rusty ones, and fit new, working from inside out (see my thread, the link above) For the boot/rear wings, it's basically the same, take care to unpick everything as neatly as possible, then the inner wings first, then the boot floor and outer wings, rear panel etc attach to that. We are all here to give you support, advice and to keep you going ;) Ask us anything, there is only one stupid question, that is the one you did not ask!
-
Richard_B wrote:tbh, doesn't look that bad. ;) That's what I thought looking at that picture, but it's what we can't see in the picture that is probably bad! It's amazing what you find once you start removing panels. Don't give up, repair it and enjoy it for many years!
-
If it was me (dirks personal welder :P) I would replace them all, then you know it has been done correctly. But that's just me, sorry! Just depends how quick you want it doing, the only problem if it's been patched/bodged, then the rust will just come back soon, just after you have fitted nice new wings. It's is disheartening I know, but take a picture of a nice gt6 that you like, pin it to your garage wall, and when you think there is no end, just look at it and say that's what it will be like! And keep on plodding along! Slow progress is better than no progress! ;)
-
Interesting or amusing stories from 2013
Sheepy replied to GreenV8Machine's topic in Ten Countries Run (10CR)
So you took it in turns to ride, oops sorry drive! ;) -
Ooh a 72 gt6! I say ooh as that's my year of birth, so always wanted a 72! There are a few on here who have done the gutters, some also just cut out the rot and smooth them over! With new metal of course, even an old tape measure! (you will see when you find the thread) ;D When I first joined the forum I sat down every evening for the first week just reading all the old threads! Worth it, as you learn a lot, and get to know some of the members. Don't forget take plenty of pictures, and also start a thread so we can see, and help you along. Oh, and welcome to the forum. ;)
-
Firing order 1342, so use the rule of "9" When number 1 is compressed, set number 8 When number 2 is compressed set number 7 When number 3 is compressed set number 6 And so on.
-
triumph vitesse. (Dirk will come along and tell you the year, im not sure) it is a nice one, but the Champaign roadster is a beautiful car.
-
That looks beautiful Craig! A true professional job!
-
6817 wrote:Hi could you recommend any good guides for learning how to paint at home? I have a compressor and spray gun that came with it, just don't know how to use them! Thanks Andy Andy, There are some good instructional videos on you tube, look at the professional ones though. Those guns you get with compressors are ok, but it's better to buy a decent one if you want a really good paint job. Also don't forget to keep the equipment clean, when you have finished. Use the one you got to practice with. Get some old parts to spray up, and keep practicing, don't forget about ventilation and a good respirator. The key to a good paint job is the preparation, it can be the best finish in the world, but will look poo if the prep below is naff! Good luck ;)
-
Thanks for that Wim. Thanks for the link jens. Yes, I am also stripping mine for welding and blasting, the exciting (for me) stage!
-
JensH wrote:How bad is your existing rear deck panel? Pictures ;-) it's mostly at the lip, for the boot seal, and a hole on top. I will take some piccy's. Thanks
-
7952 wrote: I presume you are referring to the part listed as 16? Hi, thanks for that, the part is here 26 & 27, inner wing top section. The part you refer to is available as a repaair section. http://www.canleyclassics.com/?xhtml=xhtml/diagram/spitfireiiidashandbodysidepanels.html&xhtmlcatalogue=xhtml/catalogue/spitfireiii.html&category=bodyandfittings&xsl=diagram.xsl Thanks again
-
Hi all, Well the strip down of the mk3 has started, (thread to follow) and I'm making a list of parts needed for the rebuild. Checking canleys site, and the others for part numbers and prices. But I see that the rear deck panel (behind the seats, in front of the boot) is unavailable And also the rear wing top inner panels, (between the boot and wing) are unavailable. So my question is, does anyone have these panels laying about? NOS, or know of someone with them? I see the deck panel a few months ago on e.bay, but sods law thought I won't need that one! Typical. Secondly, for the life of me, I can't find my spitfire parts catalogue on C.D. I was going to take it to work to print off, (so much easier flicking through paper catalogue, than on line) then I can mark the parts I need. So, does any one have the catalogue in p.d.f. File? Thanking you very much!
-
That's appealing service, (probably just to get more storage money) Too late now, but you could have had it dropped off at my place, then there would have been the place and time for you to come over to change the diff! And I would not have charged storage ;) Would it be easier to go and get it, hire a transit beaver tail (car transporter) and nip over and collect it?
-
I have yet to do a 10CR, but i will soon, (hopefully) Why not just say here are the checkpoints (grid reference/location given) and then you make your own way there, doing whatever route you desire, using a map or sat nav etc. Then at the location you must take a picture of yourself and car to prove you were there, also that way it will stop your mate taking a piccy and you just copying it. As for the hotel/sleep stops, I can see that people would prefer to have rest, so that they are safe, and also you can then enjoy the driving rather than driving sleepy! If you want a cannon ball type race/run then another separate one could be organised, and from the outset, let the entrants know that this is a mad dash from a - b, with not much rest, etc etc (you get my point) I also agree about the difficulty of organising an event, I see what some of my friends have done when organising one, just recently dirk and his wife did one for the roadster club, they were working everytime I went round! Route planning, hotels etc etc! My hats off to anyone who does it, but without them we all would not have a jolly good time!
-
Nick_Moore wrote:What a clever idea - you should patent it. How about 'Tony's Patent Leg Spreader'? Alright, I'm going... Is that bush just too tight to fit? Why not try the new "Tony's patent leg spreader" Within seconds you'll be able to just slip it in! Only 7.99 from all good outlets! ;D (you have to say the above in an 80's style t.v. Voice)
-
391 wrote: They went to Spa first. It was us that told them to go to Rolduc. :) Yes thanks for that radders! Hope the picture turned out ok! You make a lovely couple! ;) Hope to see you on another run one day!