Sheepy
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Everything posted by Sheepy
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Just take your time, don't weld it in one go, or the panel will be all rimply! Spot weld it all round at different points to keep the heat distortion down, until it's welded fully. If your still nervous, do a few welds, 4.or 5 then leave it for a minute or two, then go back do some more, then leave it, and so on until it's done, less likely for it to warp. Grind back the paint so you know you have all the rot out! Good luck. ;)
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It's fun when you start getting into it! ;D Should look good once done, keep up the spirit, we're here to bug you, I mean help you along! Good work.
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Dag Wim, I bleed brakes alone! ;) You can get many different kits for this (there is a thread recently for this, can not remember which section now) But I use a long piece of clear tubing, and a bottle, my brakes are allways perfect!
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Some mk1 escorts also had a square headlamp, 1300gt 1300e, twin cam for example. Also the hilman hunter, Austin allegro, plus many others I think. But depends if they use the same model of lamp.
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7235 wrote:a good welder doesnt flinch,doesnt stop just lets it sizzle. ha ha . I know the feeling! Especially when it's in your ear! ;D Like you say, when we have vast experience of welding burns, we just carry on welding, it's no longer "jump up and down screaming" it's just "ooh that was warm" and carry on welding! (at least that's what I do now! ;D That's a nice colour, what is your plan for the colour?
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Or if that's worrying you, or you don't have access to a compressor, then do it on the car. Connect back up to the system, and pump the foot pedal until it pushes out the piston, (but not fully, or you will have a big mess) Then place a bowl beneath the caliper, and remove it and the piston. :)
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Easy with compressed air, use one of the air line blower nozzle thingys, (cant think of the name) and place a small piece of rubber tube on the end, so you get a better seal to the caliper. Then place a piece of wood where the brake pads normally go, this will stop the piston shooting off, spraying brake fluid everywhere and possibly hurting yourself. When using this method, on calipers with more than one piston, it lets the piston come out, but not fully, (as the first piston to come out is always the loosest one) then you clamp that one so it can go no further, then proceed to remove the others! Job done! :)
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I always found these to be helpfull. http://www.beal.org.uk/ I use the "p" clip, metal with rubber. Also these, they do lots Wit the kit car chaps. http://www.cbsonline.co.uk/category/Consumables/Brake_Pipe_Clips,b.html Always better to have too many clips than not enough! :)
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Ooh grinding in crocs! It hurts when the sparks go through the holes! :) Looks like you have plenty of work there, but will be worth it in the end! Keep the motivation and the pictures coming!
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The cylinders should be fine, the fluid remaining in them should keep them lubricated, but if you still worried, take them off and wrap them in cling film. How old are the seals? It may be worth replacing them anyway. As for the rad, flush it, using the specialist auto rad flush, or I have heard people using vinegar, or even dishwasher powder (but I have not tried these, so can not say if they work or not) If the water pump will not budge after a good soaking in penetrating fluid, then I think you may have to take it off to check it, or replace it. It may be blocked behind with crud etc, or it may be knacked! But if there is alot of crud in the system, it will also be in the engine, so you will need to flush it all!
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I would suggest for the brakes, to drain them completely, then you can remove the cylinders without the risk of getting fluid all over the place, especially once you have painted! You will be more upset then! You will need to bleed them after anyway, no matter how you remove them, so best to drain it. Then you can replace the fluid with new, (this should be done every two years anyway) 🙂
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Sometimes it's the simple ideas that work the best! :) It's progressing well, good work.
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;D ;D ;D That's great Roy, all you need now is a red L.e.d to light up in his nose! You must take a action video for us! ;)
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Some people use the gunson eazibleed, others use the vacuum type (can't remember the name) that pulls the liquid through. I have used both in the past, but both have advantages and disadvantages. Now all I use is some clear tubing, measure your nipple (ooh er!) and get tube that fits tightly on it, a good meter or more in length. Fit this into a plastic bottle, hole through the lid, sit the bottle high up, 1- so you can see it, 2- air travels upwards! Then crack open the nipple, and slowly pump away, (if it's the clutch no problems doing full strokes, but if it's the brake, and it's an old master cylinder do half pumps, so you don't damage the seals as there could be possible damage, I.e. rust in the original non used part of the cylinder. if it's new do full pumps) Keep doing this until you see no more air in the tube, (hence why clear tubing, and long length) don't forget to check regularly the level in the reservoir. And it has to be a real good fit to the nipple so you don't draw air in where it pushes onto the nipple. This way as you pump it pushes air/fluid out, and as you release, it can only suck what's in the tubing back, but it pushes more than it sucks back. I have done this for years, (yes easy if you have a helper) and my brakes are allways spot on! I have an ex military 6 wheel amphibious truck, and the book method to bleed the brakes is with 3 people, 2 at a push. I did it alone using this method, but with two tubes set up! :) Good luck!
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Hi Ben and welcome to the greatest forum going! The racks (not just triumph) usually wear at the bushes and ball joints, as stated above. And also like said re-con ones are usually just bushed, shimmed and painted, nice cheap work, I would give it a go yourself, you'll get more satisfaction from fixing it. And when you get the chance post up some pictures of your car! As said so many times, we all like pictures! ;D
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JohnD wrote:"This lucky lad gets to ride in it because his dad built it." Oh, come on - his dad wouldn't fit in it! Nhoj I bet he gave it a Damm good try though Jon! I know I would have done! :)
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Boys don't grow up, thier toys just get bigger! ;D
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Kids are just an excuse so the dads can buy the toys "for the kids" Like scalextric, radio control cars/planes etc etc ;D
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May I ask, how will you attatch them to the car? As the steels ones are obviously welded to the body! Thanks
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Get her to clear that garage, tell her you will take her out for a nice summer drive, and meal when it's finished! 🙂 Also, why not say you will do extra work for her, washing ironing etc etc, as a bargaining tool? Worth a shot! Glad you are still keen, our intention is not to get you down or make you give up, we are just trying to let you know what your getting into. When I started messing with cars at 15, I had a Saturday job, saved up and bought a cheap mini! Yes there was a reason it was cheap! "but I can fix it" and as said above, I attacked it the wrong way, and soon lost interest, the next few cars I bought were done different, so I got further with them! We want you to succeed, 1, because it's great to see younger interest in the hobby, 2, great to keep another spit on the road. Please don't scrap it, if it's do able, or like others have said, re shell it. As they have said, you have time so you can do bit by bit, and save up in between. Come on guys, who lives near him, go round and take him for a spin in your spit! He will be truly fired up then! 😀 A good idea, is to set yourself a goal, for example, tonight I will remove the headlights and front bumper! Then when you achieve that, you feel good so can do another job! Bonus! If at times your getting annoyed at what your doing, it's getting to you, just stop, have a minute or two, or do another job and come back to it later, frustration and lack of progress is the death of so many projects! (been there done that)
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How long is a piece of string? It depends who does it, how good they are, how much they charge, how much more rot they find etc etc lots of variables, I.e. they could tell you it will take "x" amount of hours, then ones the sill come off, they may find other bits and the hours increase! My advice, try to get friendly with another spit owner who has done this job, or a local small friendly garage, then you can offer to do some work for them, cleaning, polishing, making cuppa's, Saturday work etc etc to help pay for the work. 🙂 and also help to do the work on your car! But keep possative, when you see some of the wrecks that have been restored! Yours is not too bad, it looks saveable.
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If the sills look that bad at the ends, then I would say they are not far off rotting along the seams! In my experience it would be better and easier to replace them complete, but be aware, when you remove them, you will probably find the sill strengthener and inner sill will probably also be on the way! If you look at my thread on mk 2 restoration, you will see the car looked ok with no major rust holes in the sills, until we stripped it down, then we see how rotten it was. Don't want to get you down, but it's better that we are honest with you, so you know what you are getting into, we wish you all the best luck. 🙂 we are here for support! I think you should find your local c.t. Members, and get one who is familiar with spits to come round and give you some pointers and look at the known trouble spots!
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As Richard said, I would just try flushing the oil, and trying that. Do a compression test! Pull the plugs and check the colour! (note which plug is from which cylinder) Then if they show any abnomolies, then the next step is gasket! But I agree, usually when water/anti freeze mixes with oil, it's goes more of a crape am/yellow mixture, not the grey you have? It's due to the antifreeze! So ferny may be correct! Clever little boy! Gold star and cookie for you! ;D
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Hello Rich and welcome to the forum, the autocross spit looks fun! As for the shock dampers, it should be ok to mount solid, but you will probably get alot more noise and vibration feedback through the mountings, so would need to check regularly for stress cracks. But my only concern is how you will mount them, as too solid is not good, the damper needs some flex in its mountings to allow for flex and movement when it compresses and expands!
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Hi and welcome. You said it was sat on the drive for so many years, but are you working on it in a garage now or still outside? If outside, any bare metal will rust in no time, and you will just get frustrated keep working on the same part. Unfortunately you will defenately need to switch on a welder in the near future, I would suggest looking at some of the rebuild threads in this section by some of the others to see what you are up against, like mine and wim's for example, plus many others. Just don't get down hearted, this happens so much when people begin these projects, sometimes it seems like its never going to end, trust me it will, we will be here to support you along the way 🙂 Don't rush things, keep calm, and if it's getting to you, just leave it alone for 5,10,15 minutes or whatever it takes! And lastly (I have probably forgotten other things) don't forget to start a thread with your pictures! 😀