Sheepy
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Everything posted by Sheepy
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5161 wrote:it was white vinegar I used didn't rinse out with water however was a good few weeks until I put fuel in so hopefully all the vinegar had dried out. I have also used it on other bits and bobs (none car related) and it really does dissolve the rust. i'm sure its not as effective as the made for purpose stuff but good to clear out the crud. Also an excellent kettle de-scaler! ;)
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I agree, usually an indication of a seal wearing out! Brake/clutch fluid should be completely changed every 2 years! But how many actually do it!
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That's very blue! But a nice shade. Looks great with the black suspension parts. :) Is that your test sample on the door in the background? Are you doing the body blue also? Looking good.
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Where did you take them smithy? For a nice romantic meal? Or out to the discoteque? ;D
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When you say dyno tune, do you mean a guy with a diagnostic computer, or a rolling road? You can't beat tuning on a rolling road, and a good mechanic who knows his things, (usually the older chaps who used to work with the older cars/carbs) Just doing a static tune, while car sat there is not enough. I can tune carbs by ear, but even then there is still room for improvement, Wear in parts etc, i set up my friends car a good few years back now after a rebuild, he said it went well when he drove it, but I told him to take it to a rolling road! Bottom end was near enough perfect, but under load (heavy acceleration) near the top of the rev range it was going weak, the chap fiddled for a while, and if I remember correct changed the needles. It then ran like a completely different car, more power and better fuel consumption. Rolling road tune is the best way to go.
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If you have a good roading road chapie, he should be able to tweak the best from your carbs and set up, Then he will say if it's better to go for this carb or that one etc. I would use what you have to start with, get it set up, use it for a while to see how it feels, then if needed update the carbs. Yes you can buy cheap sets on flea bay, but what are you buying? Why are they selling them? Do they need re building etc etc. it's probably better to wait (hence use it with your carbs) until a fellow member here converts to injection and sells his carbs! Just a thought.
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Or some nice disco lights! :P
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It's the cost of freight and/or import tax that kills it. My friend bought some indicators for his old old triumph, (cant remember the exact figure but) something like €12, then he had a call saying, your item has arrived and now you need to pay tax at €20 ??) The tax was more than the product was worth! (not sure what he did actually) but he will say if he reads this! And correct my mistakes (where are you Dirk) They always seem to be getting more expensive!
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Start the clock...48 weeks to go
Sheepy replied to Velocita Rosso's topic in Ten Countries Run (10CR)
thescrapman wrote: The last day to sign up is usually about 2-3 days after it opens, as it fills up in 2-3 days. There are usually a few last minute retirements so spaces do become available, sometimes. Cheers Colin Ok Colin cheers. So we have no need to rush then. :) Out of interest, what is the max number of vehicles on the 10cr? -
The wife has them on her company car, and it's amazing how much difference it makes. :) I know in Germany you are not allowed to drive there without winter tyres fitted in the winter. My dad used to work at a garage/service station many moons ago, before I was a little itch! They had a guy trade in a Hilman imp, he had just moved from Sweden, he had studded rear tyres fitted, so they had to change the rear tyres for normal ones, but before doing that my dad took it home for a few nights! Said when he accelerated there were lots of sparks flying out the back! The things kids do for fun!
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Start the clock...48 weeks to go
Sheepy replied to Velocita Rosso's topic in Ten Countries Run (10CR)
May I ask guys, What is the last date you can sign up for entry to the 10cr? :) Just so we know a definite target date to rebuild the mk2 spit, then we will know if we can go or not! (I think we will be able to get it done, it's just when it's in the paintshop, you know what they are like, say it will only take so long, then that ends up being twice as long) -
Mike, When I was in my teens I used to have lots of mini's and usually the old mountney steering wheels. After a few weeks the wheels were allways looking grubby being a mechanic I would allways jump in and nip somewhere without cleaning my hands. I used to just get some warm soapy water and a rag and wipe them clean. Dry them off, then I had some leather cream (can't remember the name now as age is against me) wiped that on them, and they were like new. You can get lots of different leather restore creams nowadays! ;D my wife uses some good ones for her horse saddles, but they hum a bit, would not be pleasant in the confines of a car. Search on the net for leather restoring creams.
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I think that's a common problem with the front outriggers, possibly due to people jacking them up there! Think you are fortunate that there is no more rot underneath, that's great news!
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Pete, I think the problem with the helicoil is that the plate is not so thick, and will only leave you minimal amount of helicoil thread, and when you tighten it, it may not hold so good, or possably strip. It may work it may not! Personally, I would drill and tap to the next size up, but don't forget to use the correct clearance drill so you get a good thread cut, :)
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michael_charlton wrote: Yey...another one into the fold... :B All done and dusted! And wow, may I say how quick they are, only a few days and my welcome pack arrived! (to Belgium) Sat on the throne and read the mag! Some great articles. Cheers to them.
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I will agree with Tim, But you could post a picture of your current bumper so we can see! :)
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beans wrote: Just to make sure you are going to enter in the next one, a few more articles on the event ;) http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2007/11/10cr2007-day-one.html http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2007/12/10cr2007-day-two.html http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2007/12/10cr2007-day-three.html http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2009/09/10cr-2009-control-stops.html http://tr7beans.blogspot.nl/2011/09/10cr2011.html wow, just read them all, you had a great adventure! And some amazing pictures.
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Thanks for that, great articles, I think we may just have to enter one now, give us a dead line to finish the car! Well chaps, I have just sent my payment, I'm now an official nut! Sorry member. ;D I bow to the great ones! Will be good to do a run and meet up with some of you. Cheers for now
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Cheers Steve, I enjoy doing it. Next one is also a mk3, but first will help dirk on the rebuild of the mk 2. ;D
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I have the hole punch tool, saves time and effort compared to drilling, and as said does not need dressing where the drill bit goes through you always have a burr to clean! As for the panels, firstly, get as many mole grips as possible, then position the panel, clamp it well, check the fit, adjust as necessary before welding If you check out my thread "mk2 restoration" you will see pictures how I did it. Be prepared to adjust replacement panels, even heritage ones! :-/ Any other help just ask, we will gladly give advice. And don't forget, take plenty of pictures and start a thread, we like piccy's.
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They have converted thier kitchen into a garage? I think the camber thingy is just because of the angle of the photo!
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Yep, defenately need to clean the old goggles! 😀
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I was about to say nick that those pistons are too much difference in weight, and send them back, but then I see the second had rings fitted! I will clean my glasses!
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Tell you what, you have done a cracking job there! You should be proud. You should keep her and enjoy driving it! Well done :)
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michael_charlton wrote:Have you not seen them in the magazines? I presume you mean the club magazine? In that case no as I am not a member, but that will change soon Thanks again