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RobPearce

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Everything posted by RobPearce

  1. RobPearce
    I'm fairly sure the nipple you need is a standard size, and I have a box full of them (and assorted others) that I bought from Frost or Eastwood or someone of the like many years back.
  2. RobPearce
    And your insistence that this changes everything violates the first law of physics - that the laws of physics apply equally to all things. Had you bothered to read what I wrote you'd see that I already know that full well! And the same is true of car radiators because, despite any difference you may think is so critical, they ARE THE SAME THING at a fundamental level.
  3. RobPearce
    Well JohnD seems determined to ignore the laws of physics because he's convinced he knows better and I'm an ignorant !"$"£ I shall leave him to his beliefs.
  4. RobPearce
    Untrue. Most of the heat loss is still due to convection, although since this is also true of the things we bolt to the walls of our houses and insist on calling "radiators" I suppose you can be forgiven for not realising that. You might ask, though, why we feel it acceptable to leave them just sitting there if you're so convinced that a stationary car radiator is having no effect! You said: which is clearly not the same as "an angine with a radiator that I'm not explicitly forcing any air through", and was not, in any case, qualified with "as long as I only sit there idling".
  5. RobPearce
    It's great that Thomas wants to get involved, but... welding without any gloves on? Really? Ouch!
  6. RobPearce
    NO, an electric fan simply DOES NOT HAVE THAT EFFECT. An electric water pump would. Not a fan. Unless you're sitting stationary the radiator is doing its job just fine with the fan off, so you still need a thermostat.
  7. RobPearce
    No, it's not just for economy. The engine will NOT like you for making it struggle with cold running for any longer than it should. None of the fluids (oil, fuel, air) are working how the engine is designed for when it's cold. Get it warm quickly, for the sake of your engine. The benefit to your wallet is entirely secondary.
  8. RobPearce
    I never use the clutch. There's no point. The overdrive itself is a clutch (well, two clutches) and if working correctly is set up to engage them as smoothly as you need.
  9. RobPearce
    The early 2L engine is the same, but has a vacuum (mushroom breather thing). All they did was remove the tube and fit a blanking plate (of which I have a spare if anyone wants it). So you can "vacuum a 1600" if you want to.
  10. RobPearce
    Well, ideally you'd want a little bit of vacuum, but letting the catch can vent to the air filter box would be enough.
  11. RobPearce
    I also hadn't realised until I tried to refit the pump to my rebuilt Vitesse engine. It's not a KC vs. KD thing, though. The change happened when they moved the pump lower down the block, with the change of casting to commonise main journal sizes with the 2500, at KC5000 (HC5000 on the 'tesse)
  12. RobPearce
    Not sure how an oil pressure switch would detect the loss of a core plug, which are on the coolant system, but if a gasket fails or the filter works loose or whatever... I suspect it would probably be too late by then. These oil pressure switches were used on some cars (Austin Montego, for one) but only carburettor ones AFAIK. The inertia switch works better as a safety device, especially on injected cars, because it will cut the fuel after a major shunt that fractures a pressurised fuel line but doesn't kill the engine. Having seen how far a Spitfire can be driven on the fuel that manages to jump a half inch gap and hit the other pipe...
  13. RobPearce
    I'd always go back to bare metal and begin again. Any remaining old paint will have the potential to: - be incompatible with your new paint, causing it to blister or wrinkle - be soluble in your thinners, causing the edges to lift and wrinkle - soak up the thinners causing that coat of paint to dry powdery - hide all sorts of nasties that will creep out over the next couple of years
  14. RobPearce
    The oil switch solution isn't as simple as the inertia switch. The latter will always conduct until you crash, at which point it will be open until manually reset. That's what you want, so you just wire it in series. The former is open when there's no oil pressure, but that's always the case when the engine's not running yet, so you won't get any fuel to the carbs on a cold start. To get round this you need, in parallel with the oil switch, a priming system. This could be a time switch activated by ignition on, or it could be a relay driven by the starter solenoid (if you have a late solenoid with an early, non-ballast, ignition system then you can use the ballast bypass terminal on the solenoid).
  15. RobPearce
    The ones I fitted to Toby recently were not a perfect fit but not far out. They just needed a small amount of persuading round before crimping - starting by locating and tack welding the top edge (factory spec was brazed at either end of the window slot) left the bottom sitting a couple of inches out, but hand pressure was enough to bring that into place. Then tap over and crimp all the edges. That said, my recollection of doing a Mk2 Spit back in the early 1990s was that those skins fitted better.
  16. RobPearce
    The ones I fitted to Toby recently were not a perfect fit but not far out. They just needed a small amount of persuading round before crimping - starting by locating and tack welding the top edge (factory spec was brazed at either end of the window slot) left the bottom sitting a couple of inches out, but hand pressure was enough to bring that into place. Then tap over and crimp all the edges. That said, my recollection of doing a Mk2 Spit back in the early 1990s was that those skins fitted better.
  17. RobPearce
    The ones I fitted to Toby recently were not a perfect fit but not far out. They just needed a small amount of persuading round before crimping - starting by locating and tack welding the top edge (factory spec was brazed at either end of the window slot) left the bottom sitting a couple of inches out, but hand pressure was enough to bring that into place. Then tap over and crimp all the edges. That said, my recollection of doing a Mk2 Spit back in the early 1990s was that those skins fitted better.
  18. RobPearce
    The ones I fitted to Toby recently were not a perfect fit but not far out. They just needed a small amount of persuading round before crimping - starting by locating and tack welding the top edge (factory spec was brazed at either end of the window slot) left the bottom sitting a couple of inches out, but hand pressure was enough to bring that into place. Then tap over and crimp all the edges. That said, my recollection of doing a Mk2 Spit back in the early 1990s was that those skins fitted better.
  19. RobPearce
    4526 wrote: WZX 1356 are for carbs with waxstat jets.. Sorry, yes, you're right. But the non-waxstat type is remarkably similar apart from the ball joint.
  20. RobPearce
    Sorry, yes, you're right. But the non-waxstat type is remarkably similar apart from the ball joint.
  21. RobPearce
    Yes, I think that's what he means. It's the WZX1356 part that I referred to (shown on your diagram).
  22. RobPearce

    Choke linkage..

    RobPearce posted a topic in Engine

    Yes, I think that's what he means. It's the WZX1356 part that I referred to (shown on your diagram).
  23. RobPearce
    Never assume new parts are immune to faults! At one point I replaced the plugs on my Toledo, just as a general service item, and within a few weeks it was only running on three cylinders. The ceramic of one of the brand-new plugs had given out, causing a blow-by leak that developed into complete non-function. And they were a reputable brand (albeit bought from Rimmers, IIRC).
  24. RobPearce
    Never assume new parts are immune to faults! At one point I replaced the plugs on my Toledo, just as a general service item, and within a few weeks it was only running on three cylinders. The ceramic of one of the brand-new plugs had given out, causing a blow-by leak that developed into complete non-function. And they were a reputable brand (albeit bought from Rimmers, IIRC).
  25. RobPearce
    9077 wrote:5/8" is 0.625 So by rough rule of thumb..........If 0.05 reduction increase travel by an inch, 0.075 increases travel 1.5 inches? No, because it's the area, not the diameter, that matters. So the correct rule is that going from 0.7 to 0.625 will increase the travel by a factor of (.7/.625)^2 = 1.25 This means you'd only get 1.5 inches extra travel if your existing travel is 6 inches.
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