uksnatcher
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Everything posted by uksnatcher
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Yeah sorry should have mentioned the M12 studs and MGF nuts ARE needed. You could also use 7/16 Triumph saloon studs too but the correct nuts to suit the mgf alloy wheels would be expensive/hard to locate Landrover freelander studs M12 x 1.5 pt no: CLP9037L....do you have Freelander and MGF in N/Z?....second hand MGF nuts?......not as expensive as you think Tony , i did mine for 20 quid new studs and s/h nuts 10 quid. Looking at the old 3/8 studs that came out i am glad i changed them anyway, metal fatigue/rust had hold of most of them and god knows how old they were :o
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185/55/15 front 205/50/15 rear 1500 long drive shafts fitted, rears bolted straght on but v.close to wheel arch. Fronts i had to roll the bonnet arch lips, trim the inner arches and bend the body tub a little to stop fouling on lock (480lbs springs and fully height adj shocks)
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Looking sweet Theo...! BTW....great photos of the Ecosse on your blog.. [Sorry, link no longer available]
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GT6 with Monza system: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bHXozIC7MXg&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PL254B1040F08AEF42 Spit 1500 with Monza system: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xHupkgMgeIM Look and sound great but noisy for those long cruises me thinks... (think)
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http://www.bell-silencer.co.uk/exhausts.html I think this is the manufacturer of the Bell silencer, there will be a GT6 and a Spitfire model as the input pipe diameter is slightly smaller on a spit. The GT6 middle resonator came from a s/hand GT6 stainless system i bought of Ebay for £30, the same system at Rimmers http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RG1024SPORT the part you need is 1 S/S Intermediate Pipe GT6 MK3 - Part No. GEX1680SSF if you can buy it seperatly?(notice how much bigger the standard silencer is over the sports silencer) I used a GT6 inter pipe with a spit silencer, a bit of cutting and bending but it will easily fit, all second hand so no biggy if i cocked it up but you are buying new i would get the GT6 silencer with the GT6 inter pipe then an adapter to suit the spit 4 branch or front pipe
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Hi Scott. Yes that looks like the Bell silencer. Bradley, the Bell silencer is tiny compaired to the standard stainless GT6/spitfire back box....its about half the size with little flow restriction. On its own (without the middle resonator) its v.loud and raspy, the standard stainless GT6 intermediate resonator is a free flow can that takes the rasp and boom out of the system. Much more effective than the universal cherry bomb resonators that you can buy. The standard stanless or mild steel back box is large heavy and very restrictive and quiet so like you say there is nothing special about it. The twin wheelbarrow type free flow sports systems act like speakers so the single silencer type is quieter but the twins can be very loud, great fun around the houses but on a long run become tyresome on the ear drums.
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First off, mount the cooler with the inlet/outlet facing upwards, keeping the oil in the cooler when the engine isnt running. If they are facing downwards there is a chance of the cooler draining back to the sump when engine is not running. The thermo plate has got a small flow past the stat and out to the cooler thus circulating oil at a low flow through the cooler when cold so no you dont need to top up after its got hot (thermostat opens fully at 80deg i think). Fit the cooler/pipes/thermo plate empty, fill the sump as normal on an oil change, pull the coil HT lead off so the engine wont fire and crank the engine over for 20-30 secs or so so the oil filter and cooler have oil in them, dip the oil and add approx 0.5lt more oil , refit the HT lead and run for 30 secs on tick over. Leave a min or so and re check the oil level, as long as no leaks you will be good to go. On an oil change afterwards, the cooler is full of dirty oil ( a 13 row cooler and pipes is approx 0.5lt) so not essential but if you dont want a small amount of dirty oil in your new oil you will need to remove the cooler/pipes and drain the dirty oil out as it wont drain into the sump unless the cooler inlet/outlet is on the bottom of the cooler and is mounted higher than the thermo plate.
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GT6 intermediate resonator, with single Bell sports silencer twin outlets. Reason why: many experements with various systems on my 1500 and this not only looks good but sounds right, not too noisy with no drone on long runs but a nice free flowing system with growl when you boot it. This system is staying on with no more experimenting as i really cant fault it. Fitted the same system to tiggrs GT6 and sounds fantastic too on the six pot.. ;)
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2356 wrote: it's just taken us 850 miles to Le Mans and back, sitting on the motorway last night for four hours straight. Fingers crossed we're good now. Glad to hear your rocker woes are sorted tim, i bought a recon unit from Canleys for mine and no probs on my 4 pot (so far) :)
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michael_charlton wrote:Nothing like a quick rush of adrenalin as the wishbone hits the deck!! It wasnt adrenalin that was rushing as mine broke.... :D If in doubt....get a new one..!
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Heres some wheel/hub (boss) fitting bolt hole sizes (pcd) for your info MOMO, SPARCO, OMP - 6x70mm NARDI, PERSONAL - 6x74mm MOUNTNEY, ASTRALI - 6x100mm MOTO-LITA - 9x100mm Early Spitfire hub 16mm 35 spline Later 1500 hub 18mm 47 spline
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I found the mountney wheel spokes a bit flimsy tbh you can flex them really easily, i have removed the same std triumph wheel as yours wimpus and will be fitting it back on as soon as i get fed up of the blingy momo. The standard wheel spokes are solid and sturdy and just the right size.....expect to pay decent prices for a wheel you will compare with the standard one, try before you buy my best advise. Heres my experimental Momo wheel with a 80's mini hub boss (TR7 hub will fit too): Heres the Mountney that i found the spokes too flimsy:
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5933 wrote:MGF spares look good! What tyre size are you running? Tyre size was 175/65 14, now sold as i didnt like them, 13" Revolutions now fitted 1379 wrote:I wonder if uksnatcher works at an exhaust fitting establishment? Alternatively: Anyone looking for a cheap secondhand exhaust should apply to uksnatcher . ::) ;D ;D ;D ferny wrote:Gaz - I just noticed your modified badge for the first time! ;D Meet Meatball..! ;) smithy wrote: PDU - I think Gaz works in one of those outlets that sells and fits wheels and 'zorsts.... :) I think sometimes i do Smithy, i am collecting rather a large pile of wheels and 'zorsts...ebay is a friend tho... ;) MikeyB wrote: I've been looking for a set of these for a while for the rally car (got a big pile of 14 inch rally tyres to use up!) , keep missing them on Ebay :-/ Unfortunatly Mike they usually come with the tyre on the rim as they are spares and probably dont get used, i paid £50 for a set of 4 with tyres.....you could always buy them new (spit...spit).... :o http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-NAM7199PMN
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Bill, heres a good wheel/tyre calculator if you know the offset (ET) of the wheels , i have put the offset at 16mm for the 5.5 for example ...have a play with it ;) http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=175&aspect=70&diameter=13&wheelwidth=5.5&offset=16&width2=185&aspect2=70&diameter2=13&wheelwidth2=5.5&offset2=16&Submit=Submit
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5933 wrote: But I got another today: buy 4 mgf spare wheels (14 inch) and put rostyle caps on them. Don't know if it wil suit a Mk3, will have to see about that MGF spare 14" steelies on mine ;)
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I have tried and tested many exhausts on my spit and the Bell silencer with the mid resonator is the best by far, and looks right too: My other exhausts & 15" MGF wheels:
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To tone the Bells silencer down a tad , use a standard gt6 stainless middle resonator (free flowing, no resistance) in the system....straight fit and sounds much better than just the silencer boom on 4 & 6 cyl cars..! ;) Some pics for reference:
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:)1344 wrote:Gaz, I did not "put a valve in place of the pivot pin " but it's been fine since I have had the engine and box and it defiantly can't fall through ! Do the pins come with a "head "on them or does one have to modify it ones self ( ones getting ready for next weekends events !) I have heard stories of the pins falling out Just weld a blob on one end ? I'll be getting all my bit from the canleys boys as I am going up to mike papworth to collect my gearbox and they are just down the road Canley boys will sort you out no probs..All will be clear when you see the modified pin, you dont have to weld or do any thing to it, the head is part of the pin, like the valve but the correct size :) You have been busy taking the flywheel off....how is the clutch, any loose bits or wear?? ( sorry i cant comment on the rear seal, didnt go that far with mine ;) )
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1344 wrote: Clutch cylinder push rod and pin ? Do you mean the rod that goes from slave cylinder to the release fork,do they wear out ? Parts 112516 and 109182 Yes dave, mine was oval when i took it apart so yes they do wear. Your 'valve' ;D needs replacing with a modified pin 129410 and tolerance ring 129412 (modified meaning there is a head on the pin so it wont fall down/through) and 2 new bushes 129358 on the diagram. I bought the lot from James paddocks for about a tenner, give em a ring http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/contactus.aspx
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You have got this far dave so take the clutch assem off and inspect the clutch components...the plate springs take a bashing, the rivits can get loose and and the clutch cover can crack, unseen unless removed plus fingers wear at the release bearing ....you know you want to really.. :P The spigot bearing is a tough bush not a roller/ball bearing btw. For re-assembly the clutch alignment tool is a must buy too, a plastic dummy input shaft for a couple of quid ;) Dont forget the clutch release fork pivot pin and bushes, just fit new.... and the clutch cylinder push rod and pin too, a few quid, about a tenner if that, well spent while the bellhousing is out.
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I would use wet and dry rather than emery tape, emery tape a bit harsh in the cylinder walls. And dont be afraid of splitting the calipers, there is an 'o'ring in the middle that you should really replace on a caliper refurb anyway mate. If you dont have compressed air Gene, use a grease gun on the bleed nipple and block the brake pipe inlet hole with a bolt, loosen the nipple and a few good pumps of grease will pop the cylinders out, use a j clamp on the first one that moves forcing the other one to move then use pipe grips/vise grips to work them out, you will need to split the calipers too to get out all the grease but the 'o' ring will need replacing probably too.
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Wouldnt you want cold/cooler air being blown/directed in rather than hot air sucked out Clive?
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I assume you will use it when the car is stationary/stopped after a run or do you mean when its running/moving? Any reason for the fan, are you having poblems with vapour lock on the fuel lines or just sweaty legs? If so i doubt the fan will do anything to stop it :-/ Thermo line the gearbox cover with heat resistant material if its personal moisture issues (or wear shorts :) ) :o
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Strong believer in 'somethings better than nothing' so the roll bar is staying in mine :P
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No pics of the roll bar fitted tho.. :-/ Thats the bogie with the MX5/MGF/MR2 etc seats, i have driven the spit with no roll bar for 6 months then watched this: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cd2UOK867zE&feature=related Chilling viewing...Ordered roll bar the next day...! Made it fit and dont care if the MGF seats wont recline fully etc, as long as our bonces are somewere protected in a roll, thats good for me