Raider

When I  started this whole thing  off in 2003 I had been inspired by the Classic Marathon. I have  just checked out the 2015 version and the entry fee is a mere  Â£4850 😥 That does cover ferries, hotels and a team of marshalls,mechanics etc but that's one heck of a difference.

I have always been happy with LT77 boxes and find it different to the saloon overdrive box in my 2000 but not worse.   It is heavy though especially when trying to fit it !

I agree with Colin (sounds familiar doesn't it). I have done this in my rally cars over the years. In addition you could also wire in another warning light such as an indicator repeater lamp and mount that somewhere you won't miss it if it comes on.

Straight_Six wrote:Be a bit careful when using a vacuum gauge to set timing. I have tried to set the timing like that, and the engine has certainly sounded very happy when maximum vacuum has been attained, but subsequent checking with a timing light showed the timing to be around 28 degrees BTDC at idle. I have  set mine by ear having fitted Aldon Ignitor electronic   ignition and it too is about the same with the strobe. Drove well though over about 15 miles. I have then advanced  it to at least get nearer the timing marks on the pulley and it isn't as happy  :-/ This is on my early mk2 2000 but I do have a pi/GT6 cam fitted  and of course  as Colin says  modern  fuel isn't the same as back in the day. So I think I'll be going back to the by ear method.

Don't worry Sam - I am sure wewill see you before then. In fact I have just received your Border Raiders entry whcih is a great way to test the car a month before the 10CR :)

Just to let all northern 10CR entrants that we are planning a 10CR basis for Pendle and Pennine's April meeting on Good Friday. We will cover The History and evolution of the 10CR Car reliability analysis of all the 10CRs to date Ferry and accomodation details as known Q&A session Everyone welcome whether you are entered or are considering entering sometime in the future.

IIRC? I don't think those pictures will help me much :-/  I get the theory though. I need the right engine mounting packing pieces to go with the diff right nose piece. But why should I have 2 UJs fail in a year? I think I may get the original propshaft fitted with a new UJ and balanced. Then I can keep swapping between propshafts until I get this particular problem sorted.

IIRC? I don't think those pictures will help me much :-/  I get the theory though. I need the right engine mounting packing pieces to go with the diff right nose piece. But why should I have 2 UJs fail in a year? I think I may get the original propshaft fitted with a new UJ and balanced. Then I can keep swapping between propshafts until I get this particular problem sorted.

On a test run today in my early MK2 2000 I started to notice a new noise develop on acceleration which sounded like maybe a wheel bearing or perhaps the clutch release bearing. When I got back home though I didn't think too much about it and as I was getting out the car I picked up the new MOT certificate the car got this week. On this was an advisory which caught my eye: "Front prop shaft joint excessive play". Hmmm. This could be the noise I had heard developing. Looking back in my records though the car had a new front UJ in March last year which failed big time in October so I decided to replace the whole propshaft with a Chris Witor reconditioned one and now the front UJ is showing excessive wear? There's something not right here and the car has only done about 400 miles in a year!! I have my suspicians and would like thoughts from others. On Chris Witors site he says on engine mount packing plates he says "© Chris Witor 2011 Front engine mounting options When the Mk1 2000 was launched, there were no packing pieces under the engine mounts. The need for packing pieces was brought about by the long stroke 2.5 engine having a deeper sump. Packing pieces were added to allow the sump to clear the steering rack. In 1971 Triumph engineers realised that the spacers had altered the propshaft running angle, so the later diff bracket was applied at ME42722 2000 & MG21067 2.5 PI. From then on, the 2000 also used spacers under the engine mounts. Now, my 2000 is a very early 1969 model, with a very low ME number so I think this means it should have no packing pieces. The previous owner fitted a later 2000 engine and rear diff along with a j type overdrive which it didn't originally have. Checking under the bonnet there are engine mounting packing pieces fitted. I suspect these packing pieces shouldn't be there and because they are they are causing the propshaft to run at an incorrect angle and putting too much stress on the front UJ. Any thoughts out there?

That's a great offer thanks. I hope no one needs to take you up on it

Team 34 booked. 12 out and 2pm back  :)

Autoroute Express says 3 hours there or there abouts

We'll definitely go with the 2PM ferry if that's what we have to do. But - if we turned up earlier do you think we could get on an earlier ferry? This has always worked for me in the past but maybe the deal is for just this fixed time. 12PM ferry would be my preference giving us more time in Aachen to settle in and put the towels on the loungers by the pool  8)

Can't a short manifold be used? As Dave already has 1 3/4" Strombergs on a manifold why not use them? I thought these were supposed to work well on rally 2000s so surely they would work on a 2.5? Then you don't need to put engine spacers in and drill the subframe etc.

8861 wrote:Oh dear... The missfire - bin the bloody pionts then work off the theroy of- if it feels like fuel its an electrical fault,and if it feels like an electrical fault its fuel... So how much would you sell it for !? :) Food for thought there - I always think 95% of the time it's an electrical fault but this time I have 2 new theories as well. ;D 1. I have noticed the choke doesn't go all the way back in. Could it not be shutting off properly? Then when I was faffing about in the layby the car was ticking over with too rich a mixture (cos the choke wasn't fully off?). Then pulling away it's not happy.    Not sure about that theory. 2. Whilst faffing about and the engine running it got a little warm and the electric fan cut in. When I managed to get the b****y thing home I did take a look under the bonnet and noticed petrol in the clear bowl of the fuel filter "percolating". Fuel starvation due to too much heat there? Not sure about this theory either ;D

Nick_Jones wrote:Noticing the howls of anguish on the blog... I remember that feeling well.  Must be a big saloon thing.  You spend ages chasing down a fault with it persistently popping back up or evolving.  Then when you finally seem to have fixed it, some other random thing pops up to rob you of any satisfaction.  Then the original fault will probably recur later on, perhaps due to crappy repro parts or perhaps just sheer cussedness. Mine's gone to live with someone else now.  I had a long talk with the new owner recently and he tells me that he has used it more or less daily, covered more than 6k miles and, apart from a deep pothole dislodging the inertia switch, it's been faultless..... Guess it was me it didn't like..... :-/ Nick Thanks for that Nick  ;D

I have trimmed them back and the switch might be OK now. I am taking nothing for granted with this car any more

It is a Rimmer Bros replacement Alan. I can imagine the connectors are too long tho

My 2000 MK2 has the usual overdrive switch on top of the gear knob. The wiring was all broken in the stick so I replaced it but I can't get the switch to "stick down" properly onto the gear knob. Now I know why there's often black insulating tape round them! Anyone got any tips?

Thete is certainly more than one way of doing this event. Personally I don't need/want sat nav files or a detailed roadbook - just tell me where the start is, where the overnights are and where the finish is. Then I can spend hours contemplating different routes on maps, mark em up and then dive in  :) No reason why other approaches including satnav routing  can't be used tho if that's what people want to do.

Well, a fair few different views there. Something that occurred to me and also someone who emailed me was that as the slave cylinder is fitted the wrong side of the bracket it might be possible that the internal piston is pushing that far that there is leakage there. So I am taking one thing at a time. Today I have fitted the slave cylinder the correct side of the bracket which in itself wasn't as easy as I would have liked. Then I have used an eazy bleed to bleed the system and also left it on under pressure for a short while and didn't see any leakage. Now I'll see what happens!

How do I  anneal the washer?

michael_charlton wrote:How much....? ??) I have the brake hoses made up at around £11.00 each so for another foot I`m sure it would`nt be an additional twenty odd pounds.... In fact I think we have a clutch hose made up like that one.......you could have had for a few beers.......oh, bearing in mind Philip`s thirst That's the thing tho when people buy vouchers as presents. This year we are giving cash so we can spend the gift wherever you like  ;)

Thanks MIke, I'll bear that in mind. I have now tracked down the fact that I bought the kit from Rimmer Bros back in 2012 with some gift vouchers I had been given. This is the kit  http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-153671GR I think it's clear in the picture that the washers seem larger than would be expected. Meanwhile Chris Witors equivalent also shows at least one washer but this is more the right size and in situ http://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=153671RM Maybe next weekend I'll get round to looking at this again and go with the Chris Witor example of where to fit a washer as that looks right to me - it's at the slave cylinder end where I am having the leaks.

To be fair I like to use both. The co-driver reading the maps but the sat nav in with the end destination for the day, then if I am getting behind I know I can ditch the official route and use the sat nav. Plus there's the correct speed reading etc