Paudman

I used Ashford Chroming, and won't again.

Headlamp cowls went from long to short, if I'm remembering correctly, about 1963 In 1961or thereabouts they used single-lamp sidelights and 'Herald' bonnet lettering but only for a short time, early 1962 maybe. Early bonnet vents went from an inset grille section to a one-piece pressing around 1964. Wiperspacing went from narrow to wide around 1967 with the advent of the 13/60. Other alterations (despite the massive change from Mk1 to Mk2 chassis) were: bonnet fittings ie the rubber cone went from bonnet to bulkhead, heater lost the drain pipe and gained a rubber flap, wheels changed from wide slot to narrow slot.. and there are bound to be many more!

Are the bus ones a straight fit? I have contacts in Ulsterbus...

The Rover 213s that I owned had a Keihin carb; wonder if it was the same type?

They would do the job okay, but will be a lot more visible / obtrusive than the flat popper bases. Just a matter of personal choice!

If the coil is that hot, it may have failed. I had one on my MK3 that split and leaked oil everywhere. Try a replacement, and see if that cures things.

No seal at the front, only the rear. There's a scroll-type system that's supposed to keep the oil back when the engine runs, but if you overfill or park it facing downhill, it runs out when the car is stopped.

I fit wide radiators to my Heralds as one of the first upgrades; never seems to cause problems with overcooling but in summer, on hot cavalcade-style runs it keeps the car cooler.

He will also make one to the original pattern from sheet metal, so worth contacting.

Mines got the first coat on and looks ok too, am going to spray the second coat shortly. It's a vast improvement on the colour it was when I bought the car...

That looks good! Satin black purchased today, just waiting for the better weather and a steady hand...

Only just saw this thread...sorry! It's a simple job to either drill the front valence - be careful of the cross tube below - or fit spotlamp brackets which either clamp onto the rear of the valence or else screw onto the mounting bolts on either side. There are millions of photos on the Net; just search Herald and then enlarge the ones with spotlamps.      

Thanks guys; I think myself that gloss is too shiny. It's currently sprayed in a matt black primer over grey which is quite a nice shade, but I may try satin first as an experiment and revert to matt if that's not quite right. I don't think I fancy chromed.... :)

I've removed and tidied up the black trim between the screen and the bonnet, and now need to repaint it. I'm thinking of a satin black; was this the original colour? I don't think it was gloss but have no idea what it was originally, mine was badly faded and a bit rusty, so may be incorrect.

But if going this route, why not EFI. Go on........ Because it's more fun and more of a challenge to make what's already there, better...  I like the sound of this; can it be made so that it will take a variety of carbs ie Stromberg AND SU alternatively, to test the benefits of each?(Moveable stud positions?) I've messed about with carb adaptors to do the same job but a more professional item would be very welcome.

Heralds have the mesh sheet, or should have - at least, the early ones have.

They were sold on eBay a while ago in a longer format, to allow for more adjustment; plus they're also available in stainless steel from at least two buyers (or were, I'll check but buyright777 or adunn9 made them a while ago.).

+1 on that.

Don't be misled by the pic in that lower eBay listing; it's actually two different seals - the bowl seal and the rim seal. You'll need to buy two sets.

You never asked how long, or thick, the piece of string is that I was referring to. I wasn't talking about the string that went round the piece of brown paper that shoes used to come in, nor the string that holds beans up in the greenhouse. Maybe I should have said cord, or twine, and then specified the thickness, or maybe just suggested an old belt that you can cut and then measure the gap. I was assuming that there is some adjustment available, which may overcome the shortfalls caused by using too fine a string diameter. My mistake.  

You can 'reverse engineer' a belt by using a piece of string to find your preferred setting, then measure the length and buy the corresponding belt.

If you can get it for the price it would have cost 15 years ago, that's an even better bonus. All 1200 ancillaries will fit - starter, petrol pump, water pump and housing etc. although as Andrew says you may need to check your manifold. Anything else from the 948 engine can be sourced relatively easily from Triumph breakers if it's not readily available new.

One of mine is Phillips and one is flat... the latter I think is the original. 

That's ok if you're into that, but for people who like the original parts and the challenge of making them work as they should, it's not really an option.

Has it been accident damaged? I posted in the other thread, before I got to this one however in addition to what's already been said: get hold of an old quilt or other heavy padding and throw it over the engine. Disconnect the bonnet completely from all attachments and rest it on the bulkhead and across the top of the engine, letting the padding protect it but also to hold it at the correct height. Once the gaps are correct THEN connect and tighten the mounting bolts. I refit the bonnet this way on all my cars and it saves an awful lot of fiddly tightening and adjusting.