Guppy916

Thanks guys, I hope you both had a peaceful Christmas, Yes if I press the pedal to the floor we have silence, sound deadening I have covered the gearbox cover with Dynamat Extreme along with the carpet under lay and finally the carpet,  Thanks Rob I think I will pull the engine then, this will kill two birds with one stone, I can replace the sump gasket which has a couple of drips, and the same with the front oil seal it has a very slight drip,  also fit a steel front bridgeing block may even go as far asto  replace the rear oil seal assy while it's out,  Did I mention that I was bored with this lockdown, I think i shall give it another spin down the road just to access if i'm being a bit OTT Happy new year to one and all 

Merry Christmas everybody, I thinking Boxing day weather cold but dry, open the garage up fire up the Triumph and go for a local spin, after a few miles a new noise started, so I turned tail and headed for home and I think the thrust bearing is starting to complain, it can only be 500 miles old, but if I just rest my foot on the clutch pedal the noise stops, any other ideas please, the gearbox & overdrive (J Type) have  both been rebuilt at the same time a new 3 piece clutch was fitted, can I drop the gearbox from underneath the car, or do I have to remove it from the inside, is there a preferred bearing to use, https://www.chriswitor.com/proddetail.php?prod=GRB209

  After some fore thought I asked a friend and ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what he said makes sense What is shown in the photo looks suspiciously like the remains of the bulb from a capillary temperature gauge. It might have been knocked in or even glued in as it would normally have been held in place by a screwed collar (There might be compression fit bulbs around with a olive). I don’t think it was original to the block and someone has drilled the oil gallery. They might have wanted to run an oil pressure/temperature gauge set up. The port for the Oil pressure gauge is next to it. I run a temp/pressure gauge on my white TR6 but used an existing tapping.  

How right you are I shall repost thanks sorry everybody

After some fore thought I asked a friend and ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what he said makes sense What is shown in the photo looks suspiciously like the remains of the bulb from a capillary temperature gauge. It might have been knocked in or even glued in as it would normally have been held in place by a screwed collar (There might be compression fit bulbs around with a olive). I don’t think it was original to the block and someone has drilled the oil gallery. They might have wanted to run an oil pressure/temperature gauge set up. The port for the Oil pressure gauge is next to it. I run a temp/pressure gauge on my white TR6 but used an existing tapping.

Just like mine

Hi Rob is this a little clearer, I must admit mine is drilled at a different angle, And looking at Dave's photo the blocks do look different, I shall check my new block which came from a 2.5 PI  which was first reg on 24 Aug 1977, the mystery still eludes us !

Yes your blue arrow is part number 121398, i'm looking at part number 116511, all the above list say's is "oil plug", I am thinking is it a blanking plug for drilling the oil ways, i cant see any trace in any of the canley's engine descriptions :- GT6, TR6 , 2000, 2.5, the mystery continues ???? here's a picture of my old block  Number MG 86361, from a 2.5 PI 1969 - 1975

Iv'e just had a look at canley's site, this might help https://www.canleyclassics.com/?diagram=triumph-tr6-late-cylinder-block-liners-oil-pressure-switch&ptno=116511

you need to give it a good wire brush to remove the flaky rust, then treat it with  https://www.frost.co.uk/por-15-rust-remover-946ml/ and paint over when its dry   

for engine oil i used http://www.hankinsoil.co.uk his Part Number :- HPR 30     Classic Light 20/60, he's based just outside Winchester Hants, selling Penrite Oils here's the data for it https://penriteoil.com.au/products/hpr-30-20w-60-mineral

Hi try looking here http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Ref.html

Hi George, twin 40's as Paul said need to be set up on a rolling road, please dont be put off by this, iv'e just had my GT6 set up by Airey Tuning ( http://www.aireytuning.com/#home ) in Hampshire, I think a 45 will be to big, you will be amazed on how close you can set them up yourself with a colour tune plug, and a carb balencer unless i was very lucky,                              after the guys at Airey Tuning had finished it was like driving home in a different car,              you just need the correct manifold in my case the front carb sits lower than the other two,              this is to clear the bonnet, I had head work and all engine machining by done http://www.ocservice.co.uk and run a Newman Cam "TR16/280/405Fast Road/Rally Cam PH2   I find it easy to drive in town no lumpy tick over and instant get up and go

And there is this  https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/vacuum-oil-extractor

keep us updated guys please

Try Tony on ‭01359 269777‬ or tony@kingstonsportscars.co.uk he built my gearbox and o/d unit, and did a fantastic job

have a look here 5 up from the bottom in  'Paint colours' http://www.triumphspitfire.com/Paint.html 

Rob that was a bit blunt but true, 

I'd go with Clive's method,  some nuts and bolts (quite a few) and here's my way, then I sent it to  https://www.fueltanks.co.uk/services/fuel-tanks-renu/ for them to treat the inside, that was 5 yrs ago, there is no evidence of anything in my fuel filter

If anybody is down south I would recommend  http://www.ocservice.co.uk/services/balancing They are based in Winchester Hants, They will do all engine work, heads, cranks if youv'e got it they will machine it

I use this oil in the GT6 Mk3 box

A quick up date my VL's are ok, new trunnions fitted, and caster angle checked and             reset to 2 - 3 deg pos both sides, I was amazed auto how many shims I had to use,               the camber is 1 deg pos off side and 0 deg near side, and the tracking 1/8", I think this is close enough until I book it into Micheldever Tyres for a set up, 

I use Auto-Sol and a lot of elbow grease, don't be afraid to use a green scourer quite hard, then polish it back with Auto-Sol

I shall pop them apart over the week-end I think they were in quite good condition   

Morning Pete, it was being tested the guy put his leaver in and you could see the play in the trunnion, it just goes to show the benefits of having a mot test as I wouldnt have thought that a new joint would have failed so early, did it fail because I had the caster angle wrong ?