Guppy916

I used the drill to prime my GT6 after the rebuild, yes it loads the drill at least you get oil around the system, refitted dizzy then I still spun it over with the starter and no plugs in just to make sure, and no rocker cover on, quick check on valves, rocker cover on and fire it up, never looked back 

I used the drill to prime my GT6 after the rebuild, yes it loads the drill at least you get oil around the system, refitted dizzy then I still spun it over with the starter and no plugs in just to make sure, and no rocker cover on, quick check on valves, rocker cover on and fire it up, never looked back 

I purchased some for my GT6 from e-bay seller "buyright777" for my 40 DCOE's this link is for SU carbs https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-Parts-Triumph-TR6-TR5-Twin-SU-HS6-Carburettor-Heat-Shields/302917176791

These guys are the bees knee's http://www.odspares.com

Well that's my next move then thanks for the input guy's

Michael details on your trunnionless set up please

I have a 2.5 engine in my GT6 MK3, Ive had two mot's since i've restored the car, even the LED head lights passed, I had to adjust the beam angle to obtain the correct beam shape, the tester always say's why bother to mot it, he gets the same answer "it keeps the wife happy", He has never mentioned the engine change, I told him the first time it was changed before I got the car, back in 2011

Rimmer's don't do one for MK3 GT6

Morning Steven it could be seeping oil 

On the top of the real oil seal housing, the top bolt should have a copper washer fitted as it is an open hole into the internal part of the engine, that is if your 13/60 is the same as my GT6

Michael I bring bad news, I tried some many times to clean mine, with no luck I even took it apart, I ended up here in the end https://rimmerbros.com/Item--i-UKC8647

Sorry Ralph can't help with tyres up there, you could try Black Circle Tyres  and your brakes I used these https://www.bcs-automotive.co.uk/brake-caliper-refurbishment/ blinking fantastic job on my old callipers 

Hello Ralph, where about are we living these days

blue Hylomar always, but not heavy handed

Hi Steven, undo engine mounts, lift engine a bit, drain oil, sump off, ,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,, I have to remove the oil pump to fully remove my sump (GT6) not sure about yours, its a fiddle 

Looks like we are all having some bad luck, Steve have a look at this link  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-Gt6-Vitesse-Tr5-6-Spifire-And-herald-engine-sealing-blocks/282871656549?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649 this one is metal not alloy

Please why remove the o/d just to replace the clutch ??

Hi David, sorry to say , you aren't allowed to upload photos. because we haven't paid our subscription fees, a lot of us are in the same boat as you, and it's a RIGHT PAIN ! look on the other side http://forum.tssc.org.uk where we can post photos and get help/ advise

Nice one Dave, now back to check my plate before the rebuild

Paul check this site https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/motorsport/vehicle-specific-clutches

Thanks Paul, just checked my clutch plate , it has 16 rivets but no makers name, and looked at my old unit thats a BW unit also 16 rivets, pardon my french but how the hell is THREE rivets supposed to hold it in place. of course in the olden days we could have posted photo's

Tim what do you mean by a 3 rivet clutch, 16 rivet unit 

to remove the mains, loosen all the main bearing caps a few turns, then remove one cap both bolts, and jiggle the cap off , then you can push round the top bearing shell to remove it and slide a new one in, you might have to pull down on the crank to ease the shell out, BUT before you do this check the crank end float first as new thrust washers may be required and smear the new shells with oil before you fit them, so get your dirty dungarees back on kiddo  oh a hat and safety specs are useful when you are down there looking up

so is the bottom of the distributor pedestal the place to remove the oil galley plug and fit the oil pressure gauge take off

As Nick said check the mains, and while the relief valve is out stick a 14mm twist drill in the hole and give it a few twists by hand to clean the valve seat, mine is 14mm on a 2.5 yours might be different